OK all you do it your selfers, ( oil change, filter and etc. )

I have a feeling you will get no positive replies. I know it is supposed to be done but, I never do it. I sometimes inspect the bolts but, I never check for tightness/torque.

 

I change the oil/filter myself, at 8000km or 6mo, per the Canadian schedule. No problems with the access door, just take the whole panel off.

Without the panel off I'm not sure you'd be able to access the chassis bolts, at least not all of them. Personally, I've looked at a few of the chassis bolts, and thought about checking their torque, lol. You'd really need to have the Repair Manual to track down the torque values. And (just assuming, haven't specifically looked for it) Toyota tends to not put the info you need for a specific maintenance item together: you'd likely have to chase through the book to find all the torque values. Not sure though. My 2 cents: unless you've been in an accident, they're very likely just fine.

Complete removal of the panel does allow a better view of CV joint, to inspect their condition, and makes Transaxle fluid change a lot easier (done that once).

 

I have been changing around 7-8k miles, but selected 10k.

Didn't have a problem with the access door but had the whole engine under covered replaced under the TSB.

When I installed my front brace, I found that many of my chassis bolts were pretty darn loose! I tighten up what I could see in the front end and would recommend it to anyone that is already under there.

 

My Prius oil change and tire rotation schedule using the Oil Maintenance Required Light as a reminder:


0 miles
· Change oil (Mobile 1, 0W20) and filter (Toyota)
· Rotate tires (modified X pattern)
· Reset Oil Maintenance Required Light

​

4,500 miles - Oil Maintenance Required Light illuminates at startup​

· Rotate tires (modified X pattern)
· Reset Oil Maintenance Required Light

​

9,000 miles - Oil Maintenance Required Light illuminates at startup​

· Change oil (Mobile 1, 0W20) and filter (Toyota)
· Rotate tires (modified X pattern)
· Reset Oil Maintenance Required Light

The Oil Maintenance Required Light keeps me on schedule. The 9,000 oil change interval keeps me well within the change recommendation and the 4,500 mile tire rotation keeps the tires running smoothly and quietly. To date, my Michelin Harmony tires have traveled 32,000 miles. The original tread depth was 11/32". Current tread depth is about 8/32". At that rate of tread wear, if I run the tires down to 3/32" they will last more than 85,000 miles.

This what I did to fix the oil change door:
Oil Change Door - Permanent Solution | PriusChat

 

I change my oil and filter at 5000 miles solely for the reason that it gives me more frequent inspections of the underside of the engine for leaks, CV joint boots, etc. I have never had any issues with my oil change door.

That is a good point about tightening the chassis bolts. I will have to check this the next time especially due to Spiderman's comments about finding loose bolts.

 

Which ones were loose?


iPhone ?

 

Are these crossmember bolts?

 

Specifically the ones that hold the a-thingy of the front suspension. I need to find a photo.... ah here we go. The bolts that hold the front brace (red bar) in this case. One of mine was so loose, all I had to do was put the socket on it (w/o the driver) and back it out by hand! The other one wasn't much better but did need the driver.

 

I had a cursory look in my (pdf) Repair Manual last night. Found a note near the beginning of the book, saying one of the basic maintenance items is to check bolts on chassis (and several other areas). Now it would be nice it followed up with some diagrams and a list of the torque values, but per usual: nothing. You would have to browse the entire tome, find the bolts, make judgements as which are included in the check, find all the torque values. Frustrating.

I'd suspect there's a bulletin somewhere, with this info. Requested by dealership's service departments.

 

Yes, it would be nice to have that information. I just torqued down on the bolts as much as I could but had no idea of the specs...

 

This might help, see the attachment.

 

I really appreciate the pdf Critic. That is a great help/aid.

 

From page 96 of the Repair Manual pdf, here's the list:

1. TIGHTEN BOLTS AND NUTS ON CHASSIS AND BODY
(a) If necessary, tighten the bolts and nuts on the chassis parts listed below.
* Front axle and suspension
* Drive train
* Rear axle and suspension
* Brake system
* Engine mounts
* Other chassis parts
(b) If necessary, tighten the bolts and nuts on the body parts listed below.
* Seat belt system
* Seats
* Doors and hood
* Body mounts
* Fuel tank
* Exhaust system
* Other body parts

(other body parts? )

Started going through the manual, thinking to pull out all the relevant pages, at least from the (a) list. But it's really too much: spread out over many pages, multiple diagrams.

 

Your friendly ASE-certified gorilla mechanic would probably just hammer on all of the bolts with his 3/8" drive impact.


iPhone ?

 

I changed my oil and filter this morning and took the full engine undercover off. I checked all of the bolts that I could get to. I was glad to find all of the bolts were tight. So I have additional piece of mind knowing they are tight.

Thanks for the recommendation Spiderman.

 

Makes me wonder why mine (the two) were so loose?.

 

Isn't the red brace an add-on?

 

Yes. I just grabbed the photo for a visual since I had a hard time describing the location of the bolts.

 

But what are the torque requirements? Are they all the same or different?