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P0117, intermittent overheat, and water pump rotor

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by pandion, Jul 8, 2023.

  1. pandion

    pandion New Member

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    2014 Prius
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    Three
    A couple of months ago, I had a quick flash of overheat light while on a short stretch of 65 mph road outside of town. Borrowed a cooling system pressure tester from a parts store, bought a Toyota reservoir adapter, and gave it a test. 15 minutes at max spec (19 psi) yielded no leaks, and no stumbling on startup. Slightly low on coolant, however, so topped up. Looked like it had boiled over.

    No overheat light or codes over the last couple of months, but only in-town driving. However, slightly low coolant that I topped up prior to heading out of town for a nine-hour drive in 100F heat on 29 June. After about 2-1/2 hours at 50-75 mph, popped a CEL, and the overheat light came on just as we were entering a town. Slowed down to head to a parts store to pull the code and check coolant level, and the over heat light went out. 45 mph, stop and go it didn't show an overheat. The code was P0117 and the reservoir was low. Added coolant, bought an extra gallon of 50/50 and headed home. Thinking the leak had finally gotten worse, though nothing was under the car, I planned on stopping every 30 minutes to top up. It was clear the reservoir was boiling over. Had one flash of overheat for a few seconds, the P0117 came back, and I was still losing coolant. The last hour of the drive home was at 60 mph and no issues.

    Borrowed a coolant pressure tester again, and again no coolant loss holding spec for 15 minutes. Replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor and took it for a test drive with real-time temperature from a BT OBD adapter. At 45 mph, normal temps. At 60, just over 100C. At 75, the temps quickly spiked to 250 and the overheat light came on. Slowing to 50 quickly brought the temperatures down. No water pump codes. Some boil over at the reservoir

    After reading some threads here, I decided to try just replacing the water pump rotor with the Dasbecan 161A0-39015 rotor at $27 from Amazon along with a new gasket. I also replaced the thermostat, as well as cleaned the EGR cooler, pipe, and intake manifold, added an OCC, and changed the plugs while everything was apart. (another thread)

    When I pulled the pump apart, I had the split in the white plastic permanent magnet cover that others have had. After buttoning everything up, I took it out for a 60 mile, mixed traffic test drive, again with the real-time temperature via BT OBD and it never got above 94C, even at 75 mph. My thinking is the swelled plastic is rubbing on the cylinder the white magnet sets in, reducing coolant flow to insufficient levels at higher vehicle speeds. I'm at 190k miles, so we'll see if all this has forestalled any head gasket issues. IMG_9108.JPG
     
    Brian1954 likes this.
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    When that splits your rotor will not spin in that little hole that it sits in very well It's even sometimes hard to turn with your fingers so you know that little tiny electric motor is not going to spin that very well or it spins a little bit then it stops It makes a little bit of movement and it stops makes a little bit of movement and it stops like it's contracting and expanding it's not really but that's just how the plastic acts when it moves and it's just not worth a crap your car will barely overheat at 50 55 mph just moving forward practically will keep everything cool enough I swear that's how it works in my car when I'm really getting on it then the water pump is really trying to move the water and that impeller needs to be sitting in there and if it's dry and you have it open you should be able to spin it in there by hand kind of like a spinning top on a table kind of but while it's in the machine and then what I always do when I'm installing one of these pumps as I plug it up before I bolt it to the vehicle and I start the car I may have TIS one or two plugged up via Mongoose cable and I call up the water pump and make it spin and do its thing then I can put my fingers on the road or try and stop it blah blah blah whatever I want to do then I know it's working it's not chunking out making quarter turns and stopping and all this business turn it all off both the sucker up go for a ride I'm even running a cheap aftermarket pump My real one finally failed I had a fake one that I thought was acting up after breaking it down and looking at it not so much so I put it back on the car and it working fine so I leave it I didn't even know you could buy a raw impeller from Amazon are you kidding me but there you go The water pump itself shouldn't be going out It's the impeller I guess that's why you can buy it because there's nothing wrong with the pump all of these pumps when they fail they're rotors aren't turning or they're mag drive rotors aren't turning because the mag drive the magnets have become uncovered swollen and the housing is keeping them from spinning properly You rectify that everything is good The housing that it sits in is just a magnet with power applied to it I mean unless the power goes bad or a wire burns up embedded in the plastic that should stay running My mag drive pond pump and washer pump out pumps generally last about 18 years I would expect similar from mag drive pumping a car other than the fact that it's seeing 190° water if the plastics are built properly to take care of that We should be good.? But apparently manufactures have figured out how to make the plastic so cheap that it lasts about 4 or 5 years maybe six and then it starts to break down crack break flake whatever and then you're here But if you can buy rotors for $27 oh yeah I just keep an extra one in the glove box or in the bag in the toolbox or wherever you keep your stuff.
     
  3. pandion

    pandion New Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2014 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I was shocked at the prices for the OEM and name brand pumps, and equally shocked at the poor ratings for the cheaper pumps, including the Dasbecan pump! But the rotor itself had no poor reviews, and if it lasts half the time of the original, I'm still way ahead on the cost-effort curve since it's such an easy job.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
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    Yeah the pump bodies usually good It's always that rotor or impeller that takes the beating so if you can buy that aftermarket rotor you can stick that in the original pump I imagine test it make sure it works and let it rip then you have reasonably good parts of both world you have your original electronics which you're generally supposedly superior and you know just an aftermarket rotor seemingly they all fail so no matter