P0A80 indicated with pocket scan! Hellpppp :(

welcome! best to get the mini vci off ebay, and install it on an old laptop. it will give you all the correct codes and trouble shooting tree. then you can subscribe to toyotatechinfo for $15./day and figure out how to repair it.

you may want to test your 12 volt first, to make sure it's healthy. all the best!

 

Sitting for so long can be hard on an old High Voltage battery.

In addition to bisco's advice here is a "hail Mary" attempt you could try.

Unhook the 12v battery for 30 seconds.
Reconnect.
Start it up again and let it run and see if the code returns.

Repeat this 2 times.

Not a great way to do things, but it won't harm things either.

If it was a transient issue, perhaps some brief running will get things back on track.

Unlikely, but worth a try.

 

If the code comes back and you got a month, you might as well try to call Toyota HQ and ask for warranty assistance. We can help further if you need to try this approach. Before you call Toyota the dealer needs to at least confirm the error code for you. So hopefully they might at least do that step promptly or certify a another shop to do it.

 

i'm no expert, but there are threads here on mini vci specs. the reason for an old laptop is that the software may contain virus. you don't want to be on the net with it.

to test the 12 volt, get a digital volt meter. pop the hood and let the car sit for a few hours. test the voltage at the jump point in the fuse box, before turning the car on or opening any doors.

 

I've always thought the "old laptop" bit was because the driver development stopped around 2010 and was only 32-bit supported at the time. Any 32-bit WinOS seems to work, or you can use it under a WinXP VM under Win7-64. There are also instructions available for installation on 64 bit, but it's involved.

He just walked you through it. It's literally that simple. Disconnect, reconnect, start and run, see if it returns. Repeat two more times.

Each of these disconnects deletes the car's DTC codes and information on the battery's state of charge. It clears codes and attempts to force-charge the battery after a 12V reset.

As is almost always the case, you have 1-2 failed modules causing low/high block voltage response.

You likely have 3 choices (approximate prices):
1) new battery from Toyota ($3,000)
2) refurb/salvage battery ($600-1800)
3) Lots of labor involved in diagnosing and replacing failed module ($200 + HOURS of labor)

As has been mentioned, make sure your 12V is healthy. LOAD test at an auto parts store is the only 100% confirmation.

 

Yes in order for Toyota USA to consider your case for possible discount, Toyota dealer needs to have proclaimed HV batt failure, and also verify you are out of warranty. We here do not know orig purchase date, you could conceivably be within 10-yr and 150k miles (which is CARB rule) and although HI is not CARB we are not privy to Toyota internal policy exceptions if any.

In this case due to backlog at the dealer, you might be able to do some of this over the phone, or maybe they could at least read the codes or assign you to Toyota certified outside shop to do so (I do not know if the certified outside shops exist but I know some people on here say such shops exist in NoVA but I am not sure if they are correct about it).

 

rob2016

If you can't drive the car to a parts store, or don't have any tools you can try this half-baked way of checking it at home.

Without foot on brake, press power button twice.
Turn on interior lights, turn on headlights, turn on a/c fan, press brake pedal.

Does the screen flicker, lights dim, or fans slow down significantly in a short time?

If so, that is an indication of a weak 12v battery.

Another way to test at home without any tools is to do the "turn headlights on/off 3 times" trick.
Here's a good thread that explains the process.
Weird stuff happening? MPGs dropping? Test The Battery | PriusChat
DO-IT-YOURSELF TEST PROCEDURE (thanks to jdenenberg):
- Without brake pedal, press the Power button once and release to enter ACC mode
- Press and hold the MFD Info button, then turn the headlights on and off three times to enter Maintenance mode; release Info button
- Press “Menu” (on screen)
- Press “Display Check”
- Press “Vehicle Signal Check” - the battery voltage is shown and should be about 12.4 to 12.8 Volts (normal for an unloaded battery)
- Again without brake pedal, press Power button and release to put a current load on the battery - the voltage should stay above 12.0V (if less than 12.0V the battery is not well, or there is a fault or unusual load somewhere)
- Press brake pedal and press Power button once to enter "Ready" mode - the battery is now charging at about 14V (if less than 13.6V or more than 14.4 there may be a problem with the charging circuit)
- Turn car OFF to leave Maintenance mode

None of these replace a real load test, but are generally useful indications of health when you have no diagnostic tools at hand
.

 

A Solar BA5 tester is a prosumer level 12 volt CCA tester, about $40~50.

My 2 cents;

Get the car assessed by a Toyota dealership, get all the info you can, re the hybrid battery condition, if they can go to bat for you. Email Toyota yourself if it comes to that.

It seems pretty common that Toyota will come through with 50/50 deals.

 

Takes a short time to test the 12v.
No reason not to start there and rule it out.