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P0A80

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by SOPHOMORE, Aug 31, 2021.

  1. SOPHOMORE

    SOPHOMORE New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2021
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    Location:
    Bay Area
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Hey guys, first time attempting to repair my HV Battery.
    2010 Prius 180k miles

    First some history:
    The first time I got the P0A80 code was when I was driving uphill for an extended period of time. I cleared the code and the lights came back approximately 150 miles later. I continued clearing the codes each time the code came back approximately 150-300miles each times.

    Completed a health check and found all current Block Voltages within spec. However freeze frame data found all Block Voltages ranging from 14.6-14.1 aside from Block # 10, 12.74v during fault. (See attached)

    With block # 10 being the culprit, I know that I should be looking at modules 19 & 20.
    Being an Gen 3, I labeled my Modules with Module 1 being the closest to the ECU & Blower Motor.

    I then took out the HV Battery and tested each module without load. All modules ranged from 7.91v to 7.86v
    Module 19: 7.88v
    Module 20: 7.88v

    I then completed a load test for each module. All modules voltage range drop from .23v to .3v
    Module 19: 7.58v
    Module 20: 7.62v

    My load test consists of attaching an H7 bulb to each module for 120 seconds.

    Is there any other tests I can run to confirm which modules are failing or should I just blindly replace Module 19 & 20?

    I have 2 spare HV Battery trays
    One from a Gen 2 with approximately 220k miles, has been out of the vehicle for approximately 1 year. Cells range from 7.6v to 5.98v.
    Another from a 2011 with approximately 220k miles, was running approximately 3 weeks ago. Cells range from 7.61v to 7.57v.

    If I were to replace the Modules, should I salvage the modules from the Gen 2 with ~7.6v or the 7.61v modules from the 2011?

    After replacing the modules, how to I balance the modules?

    I've read that I would need to connect all the modules together to do so, what is this process?
    Can I just attached the harness and buss bars or do I connect all the positive terminals together and all the negative terminals together?

    Thanks in advance.
     

    Attached Files:

    #1 SOPHOMORE, Aug 31, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2021
  2. vjekobalas

    vjekobalas Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Croatia
    Vehicle:
    Other Hybrid
    Model:
    N/A
    I see that you didn't get any feedback - same with my P0A80 situation with my daughter's Yaris.
    I even started a new thread about charging/discharging and no feedback yet.
    I do have an electronic background but nothing to do with batteries, so I wanted to make sure
    I know what I'm doing before undertaking anything.

    Was wondering whether you got any further ? I'm no expert at all but from your load test
    I don't see anything noticeable wrong - hopefully the experts will help out. I purchased the CQ3 charger and
    am not sure whether to do a load test or a discharge / what will indicate the problem (it could of course
    be something totally different eg. oxidation/contacts or ampmeters/car measurement) without
    unnecessarily stressing the modules.
     
  3. vjekobalas

    vjekobalas Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    Other Hybrid
    Model:
    N/A
    Regarding balancing by connecting modules in parallel, I'm not sure whether
    this achieves anything- as far as I understand the voltage will be equalized but the capacity
    will not be if modules are not of similar characteristics/charged. The best you can do is have
    modules of similar characteristics charged to same specs and use them.
     
  4. pairoPriuii

    pairoPriuii Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2021
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    Location:
    lower Alabama
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    This is something of a blind-leading-the-blind on my part but I have a similar situation except that my 2010 with 192k threw a POB080. First I bought a bluetooth OBDII reader and the Dr Prius app and tried resetting the codes, but they came back the very next time I sarted the car. Next the ICE would no longer start which I theorized was due to the HV battery being too low so I rolled the dice and bought a Prolong HV Battery charger and discharger and proceeded to clean all the bus bars and nuts (which did show some corrosion), then ran three complete charge/discharge cycles (per Prolong instructions). The good news was the ICE started and the car would go in gear and drive, but the hybrid functions were not available and all the lights and messages reappeared almost instantly after clearing and disconnecting/reconnecting the 12-volt bat. According to the Dr Prius app and remote reader, I have 16+ volts per module, so I'm thinking that instead of the HV battery itself, perhaps the problem is in one of the electronic control modules in the charging/discharging circuit. I have checked 2 of the 3 connectors on the battery computer assy, with zero signs of corrosion (the third one is trikier to get to). I'm still hoping someone can enlighten me on the POB080 and, perhaps point me in the right direction on troublshooting the various components in the battery assy.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
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    There are countless threads here about battery troubleshooting, module replacement, balancing, and so on.

    What might happen when you don't "get any feedback" is a lot of members may have seen your post and figured the topics have all been covered so well before that you will probably find those threads.
     
  6. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    NJ-USA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    Use the search function for your code. Short form is that the battery ecu monitors the voltage of the 14 battery blocks, and if it sees too much difference between the highest and lowest values for too long then it sets that code.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.