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P1116, P0117 anyone??

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by kuttek, Nov 5, 2009.

  1. kuttek

    kuttek New Member

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    I got 2006 Prius with 20k miles on it, never had any problems, untill a check engine light came on last week and I scanned it and it said P1116. So I bought new Part# 16660-21011 heat storage tank assembly. After replacing it I replaced all the coolants and put the car together and drove it after few miles the MIL light came on and the navigation screen said â€problem†then the overheating indicator came on. The red triangle then goes off and comes back on when the car drives on the gasoline engine but goes off when it switch back to electric mode. after a day of driving the check engine light went back on and I scanned it and P1116 and p1115 P1121. So at this point I ordered Part # 16670-21010 water valve assy. Part# 89422-33030 Water Temp Sensor, G9020-47031 Water Pump Assy. And the Toyota pink fluid. Changed all the parts and drove it this morning and now P1116 (Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Stack for Coolant Heat Storage) and P0117 (Engine coolant temperature circuit, low input) no other codes.

    I turned on the heater for the cabin and that doesn’t work, it blows cold air, drove it for about 20 miles and the heater still doesn’t work.

    I took everything apart checked all the hoses and connectors and everything looks fine. Now the car is all back together and the two codes I get is the P1116 and P0117 and a non working heater.

    Any input from any one here would be greatly appreciated.
     
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  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    A thread on a similar issue can be found here:
    http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...-p1116-code-coolant-control-valve-issues.html

    Unfortunately there was no technical resolution to the problems cited.

    A few things to check: Make sure that the hoses leading to the water valve are correctly connected.

    Any damage to the wiring harness connector that leads to the engine temp sensor? P0117 implies a short in the wiring.

    If the cabin heater isn't working (and especially if the engine is still overheating), you probably have air in the engine coolant system. Note the air bleed valve on top of the radiator that can be opened to let air out of the radiator. Squeeze the top radiator hose to further encourage air to pass.

    Set the car to inspection mode so the gasoline engine continues to run, then set the cabin temp to MAX HEAT and rev up the engine until you don't hear air in the cabin heater and you can feel heat coming out. Refill the coolant reservoir as needed so the level is at the FULL mark.

    How much coolant did you add after you replaced the canister and water pump? Should be around 6 US quarts. If much less, then you might also have air in the canister. I shorted the CHS relay switched terminals to force the CHS pump to run and fill the canister, but there's some risk in that process.
     
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  3. kuttek

    kuttek New Member

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    Thanks for the reply, i will try that now, only thing how to put the car in inspection mode?
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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  5. kuttek

    kuttek New Member

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    got it i was looking at your other post. (i shouldve searched before asking:D
    i have one gallon in it now thats the most i can put in it shows that its full. it explains the CHS tank being low, thanks a million, ill try that and post what happens
     
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  6. kuttek

    kuttek New Member

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    how do you do that. and what do i need to watch out for when i do it?
     
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  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    First, find the CHS relay which is located in the relay box mounted to the cowl above the engine. Gently pry the relay out of its socket, using a small flat-blade screwdriver.

    Look at the relay terminals. Two are copper-colored while two are silver-colored. Use an ohmmeter to determine which pair of terminals is for the coil (you will measure several ohms of resistance) and which pair is the switched terminals (infinite resistance.)

    Use a paper clip to short the switched terminals on the relay socket, when the car is IG-OFF. This will force the CHS water pump to run. Run the water pump only when the car is IG-OFF and only for ~20 seconds at a time to avoid overheating.

    Hopefully you'll see the coolant level in the radiator drop after you've run the pump, which shows that coolant is entering the canister. Squeeze the top radiator hose, run the pump, refill coolant, repeat several times until the coolant level doesn't drop.

    This is not an approved service method as the repair manual requires use of the Toyota diagnostic laptop or handheld device to run the pump. Hence my warning that use of this procedure is at your risk.

    Another potential service method is to use a vacuum pump on the radiator opening when the cap is removed. However I don't have that tool and have had success using the procedure I've outlined above.
     
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  8. kuttek

    kuttek New Member

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    did every thing you told me, and added another gallon brings it to 8 quarts and still no heater working just cold air. getting ready to go home now, i hope it fixes it self on the drive home. ill post what happen and try to figure this out
     
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  9. rposton

    rposton Member

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    I hope I am not confusing the issue. I seem to remember the dealer changing my whatever-you-call-it water flow valve between the head and the tank and the heater core, under a recall order, because some of the valves would stick. I too have the 2006 Prius. Reading all the posts, an airbubble issues screams at me too, but I wonder if his valve is bad.

    I think this is right, thermos-head-radiator-heater core is on one system, and the inverter-block-other radiator is on a different system, and the valve I am speaking about is the device which directs heated water from the head to the heater core or to the radiator.

    Somebody correct me if I am wrong.
     
  10. andrewclaus

    andrewclaus Active Member

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    First, the thread is over six years old. I think this is what you'd call a zombie thread--it lives!

    Second, the inverter cooling system does not include the engine block, if that's what you mean by "block." It does include the transaxle. And I'd replace the word "head" with "engine."

    The three way coolant control valve is in the "engine" system.