P3000 hybrid battery malfunction-urgent, need help!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by srysoldout, Oct 23, 2021.

  1. srysoldout

    srysoldout New Member

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    Hello prius chatters, I’m at my wits end with my *reconditioned* hybrid battery, and would like to post here before considering taking it in for inspection. Details below:

    -got x22 modules to recalibrate my battery (bought the car used, battery failed and all but 6 cells needed replacement)

    -installed the balanced modules and cleaned corrosive components e.g. nuts and bus bars. (I did not balance the entire battery to have the same voltage across all modules, as I’m not sure how to wire 28 modules in parallel to each other).

    -fixed all other error codes as displayed on OBD2 scanner, like safety plug and water pump errors, but the p3000 is persistent.

    -just finished cleaning some more corrosion on the hybrid battery, reinserted connectors (examined ECU pins, and other wires, nothing was corroded BUT there are micro hairs adhering to some pins), and fired up the car, only to have the car fail this time. Again, car had been running smoothly save for the p3000 error code, and once I disassembled the battery to clean nut corrosion and inspect the wiring, the car threw the red triangle and wouldn’t even start.

    Essentially I’ve inspected clean pins and wires and had the battery fail on me as I plug in the safety pin and start the car. Very frustrating.

    Below are some attachments of various modules showing no voltage (all are 7.9-8.1v initial voltage and about the same under load, so it can’t be a failed cell/module.)

    When I start the car, this time the battery clicks ONCE instead of twice-three times(?) like it usually does. Then it throws p3000 and the engine won’t kick on.

    Does anyone have any advice on what to do? This battery can’t seem to work properly without throwing codes and failing to start.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Hello and welcome to PriusChat.

    FYI, your posts are moderated until you have five moderated posts. This is an anti-spamming measure.

    Your code reader is not getting all the codes, I'd expect to see P3030 as well.

    You need to buy a new wire-frame harness no. 2 from your local (or online) Toyota parts counter which is reasonably priced. In addition, reinspect the socket in the battery ECU. If any of the pins (especially around the area of pin 22), find a secondhand one with a good socket and replace the ECU as well. Get an ECU with the same part number as printed on yours, or you could use a part with a newer part number as well. Use Toyota Parts Center Online to find the latest part number, just type in your existing part number into the search box.

    Once you get this sorted, see what you are left with.

    You talk about balancing modules, but you are using that term incorrectly. What you are talking about is equalizing and as far as connecting the modules in parallel equalizing is a waste of time. It is true that all the modules should be around the same voltage (within 0.2 - 0.3 V) when the battery is assembled, but this should be a byproduct of correctly rehabilitating the modules. Balancing is a charging/discharging process where your overcharge (at the gentle rate of 0.05C (325 mA in the case of the 6500 mAh Prius modules) 3 - 5 times each time going to a lower level of discharge (lowest being 0.5 V per cell or 3.0 V per module).

    The last point I'd make is you are really pushing it uphill changing twenty-two modules. This whack-a-mole approach only really works one or two times changing four, maybe six, modules maximum. I don't know what criteria you used to decide twenty-two were 'bad', but if you didn't do a capacity test or a load test and only used open-circuit voltage, then you might be throwing out modules that are otherwise ok.

    You need to charge all modules up and do a top balancing charge first on all modules, including the modules you think are 'bad'. You then need to record the max voltage, let them sit for a week or more, then measure the OCV again and record that. Alternately, if you can't spare the time you can do a load test.

    You should make good use of spreadsheets to record your results. It helps immensely with evaluating which modules are good vs bad.

    There are plenty of posts in the Gen 2 forums that describe both balancing and load testing, so I'm not going to go into great detail about that. Use the Advanced Search feature to limit searches to the Gen 2 forum and its child forums. Pay attention to any post by TMR-JWAP, ericbecky, strawbrad, and PriusCamper.

    Good luck.
     
    #2 dolj, Oct 23, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2021
    srysoldout likes this.
  3. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    +1 to dolj

    You have some type of problem with the small wires that the battery ecu uses to sense block voltage. Could be the wire harness, could be corrosion damage to the connector and pins at the ecu (fairly common), could be loose and/or corroded connections at the battery modules.

    Did you: clean the busbars and nuts and torque them to 48 inch pounds? Inspect yhe orange connector and connector pins at the ecu? Clean and inspect the small wire terminals at the module studs?

    I also am of the opinion that "just" changing 22 modules has a very low chance of working correctly. I would expect to get "block xx reads weak" - P30xx codes soon after you straighten this other stuff out. Now if you took a complete set of known good modules from another car and swapped them all- that should be fine.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  4. srysoldout

    srysoldout New Member

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    II
    All right, here are some more pictures for you guys. It looks like a pin inside the ECU could be corroded (not sure how water could’ve gotten in there). I’ll dash it with some electronic cleaner and see if it clears the code upon startup….if not, then it may be time to replace that wire harness like you’ve said and look for a new ECU.

    I touched that white connector up with some cleaner as well but you can still see some returning. Not sure if I want to retire that, at all.

    as for the battery reconditioning, it was done very well and I’m not doubting the efficiency of the 22 modules since i 1) did the excel spreadsheet and tossed 22 crap modules that were done for (I’ve been on here quite a bit regarding battery reconditioning), 2) got “new” batteries from an authorized retailer on eBay and 3) did a charge cycle on two that were below 8.1v. I’m not terribly sound with electrical vernacular, but I’m learning as I go ;) thanks for catching me on that.

    any thoughts on where to go next? Order new parts or attempt to “band-aid” these connectors?
     

    Attached Files:

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