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Post Head Gasket replacement woes

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by knucklebuster, Dec 30, 2023.

  1. knucklebuster

    knucklebuster New Member

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    I went through pretty meticulously with replacing my head gasket using many of the great videos on youtube for example:

    i bought all new components (timing chain, water pump and thermostat, new head bolts, head gasket, EGR valve, etc...). I got the head checked and honed at a machine shop and cleaned out the EGR cooler. I feel like i had everything all back together perfect. After setting the timing and getting everything all buttoned up, it started and smoked like it had a bad gasket again but eventually burned off. No leaks, no coolant in oil, no coolant loss (i think it was just the old stuff burning off from the prior issue). I ran it around a bit but is was still a bit rough. The engine would only run for a few seconds then shut off too early. If i gassed it, it would kick in but still ran a bit rough and sounded like the timing was off a bit.

    I ripped it all apart again to verify the timing wasn't off and the that the new tensioner had clicked in place. That is the only thing i could think of. After loosening the nuts a bit, I could tell it had tension so i just put it back in. I could also tell the chain was tight. I also took off the cam cover to verify the marks were in the correct position. The timing marks line up after rotating several turns and i could see the crank shaft position was correct for when at TDC after removing the harmonic balancer. Is it possible for the timing to be off if the chain and marks all line up? it looked like it should the way everyone explained. 25 links between the crankshaft mark and the right cam mark and 9 between the two cams. I'm about to put it all back together as it seems like the timing should be good. My next move will be to try to find someone with techstream to try to diagnose it better.
     
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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    no dash lights?
     
  3. knucklebuster

    knucklebuster New Member

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    Yep, it came back on, code was cylinder 1 misfire again. Coolant was also bubbling exhaust on further evaluation. I suspect the block was warped as i didnt check that. I will be planning to remove the engine, swap out with a JDM and maybe get the old one rebuilt (with a 2 yr/24K warranty as a back up. It is kind of like getting therapy and advanced yoga training doing the continual rebuild and removal of the engine components multiple times.

    As for the JDM thing, you are basically rolling the dice. The engines look like they have been ripped out of a wrecked car. Some looked ok, some not so good. I got one i thought was good and the smaller coolant line basically fell out of the head. I think that would have been a small disaster if putting that one in. Or, they say we'll have better ones tomorrow or next week. Makes me wonder about where they source these???
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    New short blocks are around 2 grand USD.

    If you want to check the current block for flatness, engine section of repair manual is linked, last line in my signature. If you're on a phone, turn it landscape orientation to see signatures on this site.

    Yeah, page 32 in aforementioned, or search for "INSPECT CYLINDER BLOCK FOR WARPAGE".

    BTW, what was the miles on it when you had the initial head gasket failure? Had the EGR components (including intake manifold) ever been cleaned?

    Also, thanks for that video link; Mr B's videos are very good, missed that one. No blasting rap music, no BS; think he's a highschool shop teacher??
     
    #4 Mendel Leisk, Jan 6, 2024
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2024
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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Couple more possibilities: the damper between engine and transaxle (may have incurred damage, broken springs), or a slightly bent piston arm.
     
  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Some have had issues because the cam marks lined up but both cams were rotated ccw a notch.

    Yes you are right. A rebuilt engine is the better choice. I would get one from HybridPit in Buena Park.
     
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Would the crankshaft mark be off then?
     
  8. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    OP, this is a good point. You cannot verify that the timing is right if you only take off the timing cover and look at the camshaft sprockets and their painted links. You also need to take off the crank pulley and verify that the third painted link is on the mark on the crank sprocket. If you take the pulley off, you can just barely see it with a light. (ASK ME HOW I KNOW)

    However, in my experience, when this was the case, it drove pretty OK, but continually threw check engine lights for "camshaft/crankshaft correlation." It doesn't sound like this is your problem.

    Did this engine get overheated before you started working on it? There's virtually 0% chance that the block deck was warped unless it was.

    Tell us more about the symptoms. It runs "for a bit" and then dies? Is cylinder 1 misfire the only code?
     
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  9. knucklebuster

    knucklebuster New Member

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    So after several days of after work, prius work, i had the following experience. I was about to start swapping all the good parts on the old engine to the new/used JDM engine (from Santa Ana). What i noticed was that the smaller coolant tube coming out of the JDM engine was loose and then just pulled out of the head. So, i called them up and had to take back the engine for another engine they had in stock. They were super nice and swapped out the engine without any issues. After getting that engine back and swapping everything, put in the new/used engine and just fired it up. It purred like a kitten to my relief. After warming it up and making sure all fluids were topped off, took it for a test drive and i will be back on the road until this one blows :). At least i know how to do it now thanks to all the forums and posts people have commented on. Thank you to all who ask and respond. Here is another tid bit of information. I noticed on my block from my 2014 Prius Engine, there was a stamp on the block (just below the exhaust port from Cylinder #4) that said 140128. I think that is how you identify the engine manufacture date. If this is correct, the new used JDM engine is a 2010 which really makes me wonder how long i will get out of it. That being said, if anyone tries to do this in the future, just go get a rebuilt long block that comes with a 2 yr, 24K warranty and do your oil changes every 3K miles.
     
    bdc101 likes this.