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Pulse, Glide, Warp...??

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Fuel Economy' started by christob, Jun 19, 2007.

  1. christob

    christob Member

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    I've searched several threads here, plus the listing of acronyms & terms, but I'm still a little unsure of what I've learned (and not learned!)...

    Do I understand Pulse & Glide correctly? Accelerate up to speed, then take your foot off the accelerator, then ever-so-lightly depress it again, until all the MFD energy/arrow pathways go black, and no energy is shown moving between wheels and engine/motor, in either direction... That is the "glide" portion... ride that out as long as possible (with the car gradually reducing speed during this coasting, unless going downhill) and then at some lower speed, accelerate back up (the "pulse" portion) to your starting point and repeat...

    If that is correct understanding---it seems sometimes I can hit that "no energy arrows" state very easily & instantly on my first pedal depress try. Other times, no matter how lightly I depress the accelerator, either the ICE energy arrows come on instantly, or the elec. motor arrows come on instantly. I mean, just a breath of pressure on the accelerator, and there are the arrows. Yet other times, that breath of pressure isn't enough, and I'll go just a tad further, and voila; no energy arrows. Is that a function of my speed (and terrain?) at the time I try to go into glide mode? What speed ranges work best for trying P&G driving? Is it really geared towards long gradual descents, and essentially level road?

    Also, I have yet to figure out what "warp stealth" is, from reading on the site---I only find references to it in other topics, not explanations of it, or of achieving it. My first guess would be that it pertains to speeds over the magical 42mph, where it seems you can't go into that energy-free glide mode? You can only get into a non-ICE mode, but with regen feeding to the battery? Am I close? Way off?

    Thanks so much... I'm learning more and more about this terrific car every day. (From another thread here, I'll be checking my brake pedal sensitivity soon---on my weekend roadtrip, I noticed it takes more than just a light touch on the brake to cut off the cruise control, via the brake pedal; my previous two cars were quite different---just a glancing brush of the brake pedal would cut off cruise. So, I'll have to learn to use the cruise wand more effectively, for cancelling cruise... But, that duller pedal sensitivity makes me wonder if the first few X degrees of pedal-pushing are NOT activating my brake lights, either, until I reach the amount of push needed to kill cruise...)

    Thanks in advance for any thoughts on these items!
    -Chris
     
  2. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChristoB @ Jun 19 2007, 08:25 AM) [snapback]464604[/snapback]</div>
    You pretty much have it... just remember that you can't, easily, get into a "no arrows" state unless you start your glide at below 41mph. Sometimes, depending upon the stage of operation, you can't get into it at all, but once warmed up that should be pretty uncommon. It otherwise sounds like you're doing things right. I use P&G on all types of terrain except sustained uphill.

    This is a no-arrows or arrows only from the battery to the wheels condition...it's much harder to get into than is regular stealth below 42mph. Just takes practice and is most effective with long downhill glides.
     
  3. Tyrin

    Tyrin New Member

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    Hi Chris,

    Your basic summary of P&G seems right. Others have more experience with this, but I think that the reason you are sometimes not able to get into glide is due to the car warming up OR the battery running too low. While the car warms up, the engine must run more to get up to temperature, and may not shut off when you want it to. It might take five minutes or so before P&G really works. I also think its possible for the engine to keep running if the battery has gone down significantly, but I could be wrong about this.

    Warp stealth does refer to over 42 mph. At this point, the engine will keep spinning, but you can get to a point where you run on electric only. I personally haven't gotten the hang of this, and prefer cruise control at highway speeds, so I can keep my eyes on the road.
     
  4. Skwyre7

    Skwyre7 What's the catch?

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  5. ystasino

    ystasino Active Member

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    I think I'm just in the stage of understanding immediately after the one you are at. While others are more qualified and experienced to explain the details of all these approaches, I think that a commonly overlooked issue is highway performance. This is probably because the EPA mpg figures are lower for the highway where most people simply use cruise control.

    Well I'm beginning to learn when to use the "only yellow arrow" condition for highest mpg in parkway speeds.

    Also how to accelerate at the most efficient range of the ICE something commonly overlooked because of Toyota's inexplicable blunder of omitting an ICE rpm monitoring system in standard instrumentation.

    How to keep the battery charged to 6-7 bars as much as possible.

    All these 3 approaches have to be adjusted and fine tuned for each commute, trip, traffic conditions, traffic light timing and terrain.

    Coming to work today I got +69 mpg over 8.5 miles and going back I'm hoping for something like 45-47 but that's probably wishful thinking. Currently showing 55.7mpg after 144 miles.
     
  6. Danny Hamilton

    Danny Hamilton Active Member

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    Unless I'm misunderstanding what I'm seeing happen, personal esperience indicates that:

    1) The higher the charge on the battery, the easier it is to get into a glide. If I've just come down a long hill and I've got green bars, I can get into glide without even looking at the MFD. If the bars drop below the half mark on the MFD, I struggle to get into glide sometimes. The few times I've ended up near the bottom of the SOC guage, I haven't been able to induce glide at all.

    2) During some of the earlier "warm up" stages, it can be impossible to get into a "glide" state unless you have an EV mod installed.

    3) It isn't necessary to let up all the way on the pedal and re-press it to engage glide. At times when I've been backing slowly off I've seen the glide initiate. It seems easier to find glide and get there quickly by backing off entirely and re-pressing, but I suspect that with practice it should be possible to go directly from accelerating to glide by backing off the pedal just the right amount to go straight to glide. This would avoid a small amount of loss of momentum from the regen mode when you let off the pedal completely.

    4) As has been explained here already a bit, above 41(?) mph the ICE spins even if it isn't providing power. This uses up some small amount of energy to overcome inertia and internal friction. It is possible to get into a state where the car is not using the ICE for power above this speed, essentially running on electric (or coasting with only momentum used), and this mode is generaly referd to as "warp stealth" to differentiate it from "EV" and "glide" because of the additional energy used up by the spinning ICE. If you have no energy transfer indicated on the MFD while above this speed it is sometimes refered to as "warp glide" to differentiate it from energy from the battery.
     
  7. ken1784

    ken1784 SuperMID designer

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChristoB @ Jun 19 2007, 10:25 PM) [snapback]464604[/snapback]</div>
    You're absolutely correct about the pulse and glide.
    Anyway, the good reference is...
    http://hybridcars.about.com/od/ownership/a/pulseandglide.htm

    However, I would like to suggest that you can find your own pulse and glide technique.
    My suggestion is you don't have to keep the no arrow gliding. You can do little discharge(yellow arrow) coasting to minimize the pulse part of distance, then you'll see very good FE when the average speed is 20 to 30 mph.
    Of course, it is not a good idea to use too much battery power.
    I believe they depend on battery SOC level.
    If the SOC is low, Prius'll try to charge the battery, then you'll see the ICE is coming ON soon.
    If the SOC is high enough, Prius'll try to use the battery power.
    Yes, the "warp stealth" is for above 42 mph where the ICE is always spinning.
    As you observe, "warp stealth" is very difficult to achieve and very limited FE gain.
    My suggestion is to use CC on the highway and be relax.
    Then, you decide the target speed. Please note that slower speed results better FE.
    And, set your speed one or two mph slower than target when you're going uphill, or set your speed one or two mph higher when you're going downhill.

    Ken@Japan
     
  8. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Danny Hamilton @ Jun 19 2007, 10:10 AM) [snapback]464658[/snapback]</div>
    You may be misunderstanding what you're seeing based upon the answers below. It can be hard to be certain that you're in a true ICE-off glide without a way to monitor fuel flow and/or ICE rpm.

    I find it's just as easy to get into glide no matter the SOC, it can be harder to stay in a glide as the pedal becomes more sensetive for kicking in the ICE, but if I'm in stage IV and feather the pedal all the way out then reapply when my speed is over 35mph and under 41mph I will almost always enter a glide even with a SOC as low as 45%...not enough experience below that to say.

    True

    I disagree with this quite a bit. While it is possible to occassionally get right into a glide without completely backing off the pedal you can't count on it at all. If, however, you do fully release the pedal then gently reapply you can very consistantly get into a glide as long as you're in the "magic" 35-40mph range.

    agree
     
  9. Danny Hamilton

    Danny Hamilton Active Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(efusco @ Jun 19 2007, 10:18 AM) [snapback]464664[/snapback]</div>
    I'll accept that. Currently my only indication of "glide" is: no arrows on the MFD. If that is not an accurate indication of glide, then my impression of how easy glide is or isn't at various times is obviously flawed. I assume that a ScanGuage would help in this matter? I've been considering the purchase, but need to save up enough hobby cash to pay for it first.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(efusco @ Jun 19 2007, 10:18 AM) [snapback]464664[/snapback]</div>
    Easy to get in vs. easy to stay in. Opposite sides of the same coin to me. I suppose I should have phrased it as "difficult to maintain a consistant glide." The point being that if I don't keep my attention on the MFD, I end up outside of the glide without realizing it, whereas when the SOC is full, I fond that I can pop right into a "no arrows on the MFD" state and keep it there with little effort at all.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(efusco @ Jun 19 2007, 10:18 AM) [snapback]464664[/snapback]</div>
    This is probably due to my error in considering "glide" to mean no arrows on the MFD. For the vast majority of Prius drivers (all those who haven't bought some sort of tach indicator), this is probably the closest they can get to an indication that they are in or near a "glide" state.

    I'm quite curious as to how much efficiency is gained by being in a true "glide" state vs. being in a "no arrows on the MFD" state. For a full tank of p&g are we talking about a 30% increase in mpg? 10%? 5%? 1%? fractions of a %?
     
  10. Rae Vynn

    Rae Vynn Artist In Residence

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    I believe in simplification.
    For me, when I've got the consumption screen (with the bar graph) on, I just try for as many minutes as possible with the current usage bar to be totally green. :)
    I can do this most of the time during the city driving portion of my commute, and occasionally on the highway, as well, depending on conditions (the highway is mostly "flattish").
     
  11. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Danny Hamilton @ Jun 20 2007, 11:23 AM) [snapback]465258[/snapback]</div>
    Really hard to say. It depends upon your driving conditions and how adept you are at the technique. I'd say it's helped me by about 10-20%. The real advantage of a true glide is the increase ability to titrate the throttle without any gas being used. In a 'pseudo-glide' (no arrows but ICE is spinning) as soon as you apply any throttle at all the ICE starts consuming gas even if you're just 'goosing it' to get over a tiny bump or something. The glide distance is markedly greater in a true glide, IMO.
     
  12. morpheusx

    morpheusx Professor Chaos

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    I dont have a scan guage, but one way you can tell the ICE is running is that your instant MPG will alot of times still say something like 78.6 MPG during a glide. I usually see this only while engine is warming up in the first few minutes of operation.