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Question about coolant pump motors used for engine and inverter cooling.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by IMkenNY, Jan 10, 2015.

  1. IMkenNY

    IMkenNY Im just being nosy

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    I noticed the GenIII Aisin cooling pump motors are both four terminal, Are these brushed DC motors? If so what are the two additional terminals used for?
     
  2. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    Good question - I looked at the electrical wiring diagram & found both pump motors.
    I know the engine & inverter pump motors are of different design but their leads are identified the same way for both motors:
    Two of the 4 leads are for +12V & Ground.
    The other two leads are identified as "NWP" & "SWP", these two leads are ID'ed the same for both engine & inverter pumps.
    On the engine water pump, these 2 leads go to the ECM.
    The inverter water pump has these 2 leads going to the Power Management ECU.

    The inverter water pump has a 10A fuse & the engine water pump is fused at 30A
    The above info. is directly from the wiring diagram.

    As to the function of these leads "NWP" & "SWP" I haven't found anything definitive.
    My guess is one lead tells the water pump what speed to run at & the other is a tach feedback lead that will reflect the actual pump RPMs.

    In my research I found two PIDs in Torque"
    "Inverter Water Pump Revolution"
    "Water Pump Run Control Duty"
    My limited research did not turn up any more PIDs associated with a water pump.

    Some interesting things I found:


    a demo of a 2G Prius inverter WP running in water & its "disasembly"
    This clearly shows the "brushless" motor :)


    lusciousgarage shows a speeded up vid of changing out a WP in a 2G Prius

    2001 Prius Inverter Pump | Page 2 | PriusChat
    an old thread where fellow PCer Bob Wilson was talking about getting a 3G water pump to test
     
    IMkenNY and xliderider like this.
  3. IMkenNY

    IMkenNY Im just being nosy

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    Excellent information, This helps explain why these pumps cost as much as they do.
    I picked up a inexpensive spare 2012 used inverter pump off Ebay and it doesn't look like it will be easy to test electrically.
     
    #3 IMkenNY, Jan 10, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2015
  4. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    PM Bob Wilson - Post #33 in the above link has Bob saying that he was actively trying to obtain a 2010 pump to test & this was back in Aug 2010. He probably can tell you exactly what it takes to test the pump - probably doesn't take much to do a basic go/no-go test.
     
  5. kbeck

    kbeck Active Member

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    I play with DC fan motors part time for money. A four terminal design sounds about right: 12 volts and ground; a PWM (pulse width modulated) speed control, and an RPM detector signal. A standard microcontroller can be rigged to put out a fixed frequency signal with a software controlled duty cycle; it'll also have a frequency counter (or, alternatively, a measure of the period of the signal) so as to keep track of how fast the motor is turning.
    One can get a little fancy with all this. If one puts in a given PWM duty cycle, it's possible to have a min/max check on the RPM and see if the motors got bad bearings or if the impeller fell off.
    All good engineering.
    Kbeck
     
  6. christian cox

    christian cox Member

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    I know this is an old thread and I don’t know if you’re still around or not but I installed a new water pump in my GEN three and another water pump works because I powered it up directly but as soon as I turn the car on I get a check engine light and even then if I apply current to the water pump it still won’t go what do you think might be the problem?
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You'll probably get further faster if you pick one of the threads where you have already posted about the issue you are having and stick with that one or, as rjparker recently suggested on one of those other threads, "spend an hour documenting the whole situation from start to finish (or at least to today) in a new post" (I would suggest a new thread, but include links to the various earlier threads where people have already tried to help you, so that context doesn't disappear).

    The information in this thread about how the pump works is the same as what you'll find in that other thread where you've already been asking, but there are more details available in that one.
     
  8. christian cox

    christian cox Member

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    Look I’m trying to find information from wherever and whoever I can. this car is my livelihood. I Do an Internet search and it leads me to threads on prius chat and I have started threads on my own and very few people respond and people leave a lot of responses as if they know something about what I’m talking about and they are very artful at saying nothing at all. I’m sorry that I’m irritating you but when anybody ask me for anything I try to do the best to help them out.
     
    gliderman likes this.
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    In earlier threads you have already received completely on-point responses backed up with explanations of the control arrangements, diagrams, and photos. "People" have been trying to engage with you to gather and post more followup information that would contribute to solving your issue, only at every turn you avoid any follow-through and go back to start on some other thread where no one will see the existing context.

    When you do that, it sends a signal to other readers about how much effort to invest in trying to help you, and if you are noticing that "very few people respond", it's possible there's a connection there.

    I'm still willing to help, if you're seriously interested in resolving your issue. If so, there are some outstanding questions on the earlier threads, awaiting your follow-through.