Replaced 12v battery and fusible link, starts once, then no more

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by cacao, Jul 30, 2020.

  1. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    After sitting unused for some time the battery in my 2006 Prius went dead (it's our second car, we usually drive our new Prius). In attempting to jump it I stupidly crossed polarity with the jumper cable and fried the fusible link. After replacing the battery with a new one (the old one would no longer hold a charge), and replacing the fusible link, I was able to start the car, and move it about five feet to finally wash it. After that, it started once, but shut off after about 15 seconds. On every attempt to start it since then it makes all of the usual start up pump noises, but then quits., and all of the warning icons are lit on the dashboard. Otherwise, everything else works, power windows, headlights, brake lights, etc., (except for interior lights). I've searched through earlier postings, but I'm still not sure where to start looking for the problem.
     
  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The few times I've helped people with this, there has always been at least two fuses blown in the under hood fuse box, in addition to the fusible link. I just pull them out and inspect them one at a time.
     
  3. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    Thanks for the advise. I replaced two burned out fuses (one of which started up the horn/alarm while my head was under the hood). Now when I push the power button, the big red triangle exclamation mark is gone, but all of the other dash indicators are still lit, and the car will not shift into gear. Also, the power button is red instead of green. What next?
     
  4. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Make sure that your new battery is fully charged.
     
  5. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    It's a little over 12V
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    that's low

    you're probably going to have to read the trouble codes

    a sitting 06 may have some weak hybrid cells
     
  7. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    I have an older OBD2 scan tool that I had for my earlier Sienna, but all I can get with it on my Prius is "error". Do I need a new scan tool?
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes, prius requires tech stream, but you can get 90% or so with a phone app like dr prius, or torque
     
  9. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    OK, I've ordered an OBD2 Android bluetooth dongle to use with Dr. Prius from Amazon, so it will be a while before i can check the codes...
     
  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Error may mean the 12 is so low it can’t turn on the obd.

    Get a voltmeter open the hood and check the 12 volt on the front jumppoint

    But may be a moot point as you let a old high mileage g2 with original hybrid battery sit which probably killed that hybrid battery.

    If you see a little car icon in the top left corner of the mfd that’s the hybrid battery, epidemic on this site with no one driving anymore.
    Letting old g2 sit is a death sentence.
     
  11. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    Something changed all by itself since I last checked the car. It used to have all of the warning lights on when I pushed the power button. Now only the check engine light is on. Also, now the remote key works when it didn't before. Still no go, though.
     
  12. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    "A little over" is pretty much meaningless.
    12.8 is nominal fully charged with no load.
    12.2 is about half discharged and likely on the way OUT.
    It might go a LOT lower than that when a load is applied.
     
  13. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    OK, I have 12.49v at the battery and under the hood.
     
  14. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    IF.....that is with no load, it's a little iffy.....but should be good.
    What does it read with the headlights ON ?
    And when running.....in the ready mode ??
     
  15. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Nothing even slightly iffy about 12.49 that’s solid, too bad that would have been an easy fix.

    But try this though to confirm turn on the headlights in high beam for 5 minutes after 5 mins turn off the headlights and measure again at the front jump. A healthy battery won’t drop at all.

    12 volt is probably good so next move is get a hybrid capable code reader and list all the codes it throws.
    Seen many reverse jumps that have blown the inverter.
    Seen this scenario many times.

    Does the car have sks you can start the car with fob in pocket?
     
  16. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    You can NOT properly draw the conclusion that the 12 V is "solid" based on only one reading.
    And I bet that even a brand new fully charged battery will drop SOME after having the headlights ON for that long with the car not running.

    I agree that the 12 V battery probably is not the problem.......but what if it reads 12.49 because it is not being charged when the car runs ??
     
  17. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    The voltage is 11.91v with the high beams on. I'm not sure I want to leave them on for five minutes to drain the battery...
    The key fob works to lock and unlock doors, and the power button on the dash works with the fob in pocket, but car does not start. As mentioned, it did start the one time though.
     
  18. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If the battery drains in 5 minutes, it should be replaced. BUT ... read the voltage again 15 mins after the lights have been off. Report that voltage back here.
     
  19. cacao

    cacao Junior Member

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    It's a brand new battery from Toyota, is it really possible that it's bad?
     
  20. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Possible, but IMHO not likely, if that's the case. If the battery wasn't fully charged before installation, that will not be helping. Easily fixed by fully charging it now.

    Your voltage under load indicates the battery is quite discharged, so fully charging is required. Now.

    Also, check the connection at both positive and negative terminals, as well as the connection where the negative strap connects to the car body, are all clean and TIGHT. If either of the terminal clamps is loose, loosen off the loose clamps even more so the bolt is almost undone and force the clamp wider with a large screwdriver to lever it open, and then ensure the clamp goes right to the bottom of the terminal post. Then tighten it up with a box wrench or socket wrench. Don't use an open-end wrench if possible, as there is a tendency to lever the clamp up inadvertently.
     
    #20 dolj, Aug 2, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
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