Replaced rear door; electric lock, window, and bottom speaker not working

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by toyotafan1, May 20, 2021.

  1. toyotafan1

    toyotafan1 New Member

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    Hello. I own a 2011 Model 4 I bought used a few years ago. I love it.

    My spouse scraped a brick wall on the right-hand (passenger) side a few months ago and damaged the rear door, the rocker molding, and a piece of metal between the door and the wheel well.

    I had some folks look at it who are into car repair and they suggested it would be cheaper to replace the door than fix it. So, I bought an exact match (verified with VIN 7th and 8th digits) from a junk yard for $250.

    I removed the inside panel from my current, damaged door and installed it on the junk yard door. Door closes fine, the interior and exterior handles open the door, and the lock on the inside locks and unlocks the door.
    I also get sound from the upper speaker.

    However, I can't move the window (it's up) with the button on the door or on the driver's door, the lower speaker produces no sound, and a double clunking sound is produced in the door when unlocking or locking via the electric locks (key fob, driver door button, or putting it in Drive)

    Any suggestions? I still have the damaged door and could use it for parts.

    Thank you.
     
  2. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    The Electrical Wiring Diagram (more info) shows one connector, PS1, that attaches the Rear Door No. 1 Wire harness to the Floor No. 2 Wire harness. Is it securely connected?

    If so, I’d suggest using the EWD to troubleshoot one system at a time: see the pages for “Door Lock Control,” “Power Window,” and “Audio System” in the System Circuit section. Keep in mind that the ground wires from the door lock motor, power window switch, and power window motor assemblies are spliced together.
    For Prius cars, the VIN doesn’t encode the trim level and options. As shown in catalog Figure 82-02, Wiring & Clamp, there are two versions of the Rear Door No. 1 Wire: 82153-47140 for cars with one speaker in the door, and 82153-47150 for cars with two.
     
  3. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    time to trade in the wife.

    Since the quick disconnect wiring harness wasn’t mentioned, you should connect harness to their respective connectors. If no luck, clean the contacts in the connectors.
     
  4. toyotafan1

    toyotafan1 New Member

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    This is incredibly helpful! Thank you.
    I discovered that the "clunk" noise was actually the lower speaker firing when I locked and unlocked the doors--it appears that the wires are in different places in the wiring harness when comparing the OEM door and junkyard door.
    And yes, it appears the junkyard door is from a different trim level.

    So,I think I just need to move some wires around and I'll be set.
    I'm not sure how to remove the wires from the harness--any suggestions?
     
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  5. toyotafan1

    toyotafan1 New Member

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    After a a couple of more hours, and help from @Elektroingenieur, I've got the locks and speaker wires in the right spots. I did this by comparing the wire positions in the original door connectors.

    However, the window will not move, either from the driver door switch or the new door switch. I've triple-checked all the wires for the motor, the switch, and where the door wire harness\housing connects to the car.
    Anything special I need to do to get the window working?
     
  6. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    If you’re trying to extract terminals from a connector, see the “Terminal and Connector Repair” section of the Wire Harness Repair Manual (PDF).
    Check that the window lock switch in the driver’s door (Owner’s Manual (PDF), page 99) isn’t engaged. If that wasn’t the problem, you might need to do the power window control system initialization procedure (Owner’s Manual, page 100)—but if the window won’t go up or down at all, that’s probably not the cause. Be sure to try from both the driver’s switch and the one in the door.

    With the window lock switch off, and the car in READY, the LEDs in the switch assembly in the door should be illuminated. (Compare with the other side.) If not, check power and ground at the window regulator motor assembly, connector P4. There should be about 12 V between terminal 2 (red wire) and body ground, and less than 1 Ω between terminal 1 (white wire with black stripe) and body ground. If there’s no battery voltage, check the 25 A DOOR RR fuse in the Instrument Panel Junction Block (Owner’s Manual, pages 471 and 477–478).

    If that’s all OK, and the rest of the wiring is as shown in the EWD, then the next step would be to check the LIN bus connection to the Multiplex Network Master Switch Assembly, Toyota’s name for the window and door lock switch panel in the driver’s door. This requires a Toyota Techstream diagnostic system or equivalent.

    The Power Window Control System section of the Repair Manual (more info) has further diagnostic procedures.
     
  7. toyotafan1

    toyotafan1 New Member

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    It was the fuse! The crossed wiring must have caused a surge.
    Thanks so much for your help!
     
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