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Replaced Traction Battery - 2010 Prius

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by kc410, Jan 15, 2015.

  1. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    I replaced the traction battery in my 2010 w 140K today.
    The original battery had been going downhill for ~6 months.
    Classic symptoms - battery going from full-to-empty or empty-to-full rapidly & occasionally setting a trbl code which would cause the engine to run 100% of the time.
    I have been monitoring the batt modules for ~9 months (via Torque) & I could see one bank was drifting wildly at very low or very high SOC.
    I installed a 2012 battery that I reconditioned myself. It performs excellent - all 14 voltages stay within 100mV.

    I've got the old battery on the bench now & starting to cycle it.

    It'll probably take a week or two to find out what condition it is in.

    It is so much fun monitoring the battery as it charges or discharges :)
     
    #1 kc410, Jan 15, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2015
    Redpoint5, jjPrius, miscrms and 3 others like this.
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    well done!(y)
     
  3. Munpot42

    Munpot42 Senior Member

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    Since you are doing the work yourself, your cost is much lower that the average Prius owner, but I think we all would like to know what you have spent so far on this project.
     
  4. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    A dead battery after 3-4 years is very unusual. Better luck with the new one.
    If there is a reason you might have a clogged battery fan (dogs in the back, e.g,) it would be a good idea to clean it out when you install the battery and yearly thereafter.
     
  5. FuelMiser

    FuelMiser Senior Member

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    But not one with 140K miles on it! Our 2005 w/140K has all the classic symptoms except any errors. Our 2013 w/20K is reminding us of what a strong traction battery behaves like. Driving the same conditions as the 2005 that results in rapid swings from full green to full purple, the 2013 swings only 1 or 2 bars, and has never gone below half SOC.
     
    #5 FuelMiser, Jan 15, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2015
  6. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Your failing battery is best explained by the age and not the mileage. Living in the mountains is an additional stressor unless you take pains to pamper the car.
     
  7. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    ~$1300 plus maybe another $100 for a few OBDII dongles/cables/Techstream(China knockoff)
     
  8. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    ^^ Great price for a 2012 battery!

    Where did you buy it ?
     
  9. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    Fan had a light but somewhat stubborn layer of dust on the blades that I removed - not a hair anyplace, & really just a light layer of dust buildup.
     
  10. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    I got the battery for 1K from a fellow PCer. It had been sitting unused for ~1 year. I spent ~300 on various electronic parts in making a charger & discharger for the battery. That allowed me to cycle the pack & bring it back to very-good condition.
     
    Yakoma and SageBrush like this.
  11. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    I put maybe 30 miles on it today. I had forgotten how little the battery gauge should change. I was monitoring via Torque & watching the dash gauge - the dash bars just moved 1 bar up/down & slowly. Previously, as the battery got worse, using the regen. braking would cause the gauge to jump to fully charged (8 bars?) at times - & that would often set a code that I had to clear to get back to "normal" operation.
     
  12. nedim

    nedim Junior Member

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    199k and still going strong on mine. I did a check the other day using techstream and the stress method... 0.1V difference at max.

    45mpg, I don't do hypermiling...I drive it the way a car should be driven.

    Question for the OP. Did you notice mpg drop as time goes with your old battery?
     
  13. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    No - there was probably a slight drop due to the battery not being able to do much work. I was still getting 55mpg when I swapped it out.
     
  14. nedim

    nedim Junior Member

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    Interesting... With engine running way more than usual and still getting 55mpg.
     
  15. GregP507

    GregP507 Senior Member

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    That's part of the reason I don't plug in often. My theory is the less I cycle the charge up and down, the longer my battery will last.

    Also, three hours of charging only gives me 35 cents worth of benefit.
     
  16. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    During normal driving, the engine runs most of the time.
    The battery is _very_ good at recycling waste energy such as regeneration, instead of burning the energy off in heat. Sitting at a stop light, the battery can provide power to run the vehicle+AC & saves the engine having to idle.
    But driving down the road at 50 mph, the engine is supplying 100% of the necessary power 100% of the time.
    Any energy the battery expends to move the vehicle had best come from regeneration, otherwise the ICE should provide power directly to the tires.
    So the engine isn't running much more than "normal".

    For the record here are my last 5 tanks, in order from oldest to current fill-up this AM:
    55.7, 56.7, 60.6, 57.6, & 54.2 mpg - this is calculated - the 60.6 I was actually working on a 700mile tank when I got trapped in a detour & had to drive on a smaller road at 35-40mph. It didn't take long until my battery set a code & my engine started to run 100% of the time. I aborted my 700mi tank & proceeded directly to a fuel station. I had 672.6 mi & the fill-up took 11.094 gal - I actually had plenty of fuel to make the 700mi tank but I wasn't taking any chances.
    When driving this time of the year I should be pushing 60 mpg on every tank. Note no AC use to get this mileage.
    Florida is flat. So. FL is _very flat! A 100' bridge over the ICW (Intercoastal Waterway) to give the boaters 66' of clearance is the tallest hill we have around here.
     
  17. GregP507

    GregP507 Senior Member

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    In the winter, I can verify it's a fact that the engine runs more of the time than in summer. But fuel economy isn't predicated on engine-running time. Since all the energy comes from burning gasoline (except in the Plug-in) the engine does what it must for best fuel economy. Trying to micro-manage the system, and control when the engine turns on would only impair it's normal operation, I'm sure.
     
  18. macman408

    macman408 Electron Guidance Counselor

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    What sort of driving do you do, and did you buy it new or used? 140k is a lot of miles for such a young car, which somewhat implies that you spend a lot of time on the highway - except that the highway should be pretty gentle on the battery. So is/was this a taxi or delivery vehicle of some sort?
     
  19. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    What's the length of the battery warranty there in Florida? I thought the older Gen2 prius had a 150k mile warranty. Has that been downgraded?
     
  20. kc410

    kc410 Active Member

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    Purchased vehicle used in Nov, 2013 with 100K on clock. It had been purchased new from the same dealer & all service was done at the same dealer. So, for the first 4 years of its life it averaged 25K/year, indicating a fair amount of highway miles. I was counting on that to be easy on the battery also & I still think that hwy. miles are easy on the battery. It could have been used for deliveries I guess. When I swapped out the traction battery I found a few Lego toys & some ladies hair-clips/bobby pins.
    My use has been 100% personal. Mostly running around So. Fla with a few trips around the state & even fewer into GA. Probably >85% on surface streets. My lowest MPG was a single trip from Jacksonville FL to Douglasville GA where (on paper) I got 39.9mpg - this was on a Friday & I had to go through downtown Atlanta - The whole trip in GA was at 80-85 & I was being passed on both sides.