Replacement traction battery, standard style cells v tubular cells

Looking for those with some first hand knowledge regarding the use of the different types of cells.
My traction battery appears to have dropped a cell or 3, it won't hold a charge for very long even sitting in Park mode. 5 mins is enough for the voltage and capacity to have dropped far enough for the secondary plug in battery pack to click back in and top up the charge.
Rather than stuff around pulling the battery pack out and doing a part fix I'd prefer to just replace the whole thing. The removal is far more complex than usual because the 40Ah secondary 76 cell pack has to come out first, doing it once and doing it right seems to be the best move.
So, the choices are, either trading in my old core cell pack on a replacement, or, changing the whole set up to the tubular cells and keeping my original battery to play with and maybe make up a battery for my other newer model but a lot more kms on the clock unit (ex taxi, 720,000) Does anyone have any first hand knowledge regarding the use of the tubular cell replacement pack?

T1 Terry

 

There are two different traction battery replacement packs now available for the GenII and I believe the other generations as well. There is the original block type cells and now cylindrical cells built into a complete replacement pack.
I'm in Australia so importing a pack from the US is far too expensive, the difference in the USD to the AUD, the huge freight costs out of the USA and now we have an additional 10% GST imposed this end on the AUD price and the freight costs including all the handling fees as it gets off the boat/plane and onto the customs mob and out for collection.
There is an Australian based supplier a few states away that I can get a cylindrical from for around AUD$2,000 including freight, although freight of anything with lithium in the name tag copes a premium on top, greedy buggers cashing in on the scare campaigns put out by the lead acid battery mobs.
Before I part with the money I was wondering if anyone who had actually installed one of these cylindrical cell batteries and could pass on their own experiences as to how well they performed.

T1 Terry

 

It has an additional plug in battery pack. This is the ex Jason in Oz vehicle 2006 iTech, let the mods / upgrading commence | PriusChat if you want more detail on just what is in there. I knew the traction battery was in great nick when I bought it, it seems to have dropped its bundle while I was a away for a week and doesn't seem to hold a charge at all now.

T1 Terry

 

Don't ya just hate it when you spent ages on a post only to loose it ... I'll try again
thank you all for sharing your knowledge, particularly regarding the likelihood the locally available cylindrical cell battery would likely be the CEBA cells and not up to the claimed specs.
The next option was a S/H battery from a vehicle wrecker (I think they are called Vehicle dismantlers over there) For $400 I get a 1 mth warranty, at least enough time to check if it will last longer than it will take to fit it.
I'm now at about 6:30 into this You Tube video

and it has taken me 2 1/2 hrs. A lot more to do when there is a 240vdc battery where the spare tyre should be and all the supporting electrical gadgetry required mounted around it. It took 45 mins to tunnel down to where the 12v battery lives and another 15 mins securing the high voltage cables from the PHEV battery so I didn't make an ash of myself.
Time for a coffee before taking on the traction battery cables removal and lifting the battery out, I'll post more on what I find once I get it out.

Happy New Yr to all

T1 Terry