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Sanity Check Request on HV Battery Trouble Code

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by hawkjm73, Feb 9, 2010.

  1. hawkjm73

    hawkjm73 New Member

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    Hello All!

    Last night, one of our Prii pulled the Christmas Tree warning lights. It was driven to work and back earlier without issue. It kept running, and could be driven, but the yellow engine, the yellow exclamation point, the red exclamation point, and the warning on the MFD were lit. We took it home immediately and I used a handheld scanner on it and found only P0A80. My scanner is a generic one from Autozone, so I don't know if it can grab all the possible codes or not. A quick googling of the code produced "The difference in voltage between 2 of the blocks in the battery pack is too high" Prius PHEV TechInfo - EAA-PHEV and "Replace Hybrid Battery Pack" http://www.hybrids.ru/PriusNHW20/rm/rm1076e/m_05_0665.pdf :eek:

    The car was behaving reasonably well, so I took it in to Toyota this morning. After examining the car, the service guy told me an HV relay was causing the trouble and was making the car think the battery was hosed. They are ordering the relay, and will put it in tomorrow morning under warranty. I the mean time, I wanted to check in with the collective Prius intelligence force if this is a reasonable explanation, or if I need to push for a more in depth diagnosis.

    The car is a 2005 Prius with about 62,000 miles. It was bought used in 2007 with about 26,000 miles. It has smartkey, but not GPS or the multidisk changer. It is driven regularly, at least ten to twenty miles most days. We live in the Phoenix area, and the car is garaged at night. We replaced the 12V battery round about a year ago. The car is sluggish from a standing start, the ICE is racing much of the time, and the battery gauge graphic is very irregular. (goes from empty to full in a single, level stop, ect.)

    If you want any other info, feel free to ask. I apologize for not getting the full name of the part they are getting. I didn't think to get a copy of the paperwork today as they will be doing the work tomorrow.:rolleyes:

    P.S. This is my mom's Prius, not the one in my profile. It is not the one I blew the big fuse on putting in an incorrect 12V with backwards polarity a while back, in case anyone is searching. :cool:
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Jenny,

    I do not see how a bad system main relay could cause the traction battery ECU to falsely register DTC P0A80. Now, if DTC P0AA1, P0AA2, P0AA4, P0AA5 or P0AA6 had been logged, then a relay might be bad.

    Could it be that your code reader read the wrong code? What DTC was retrieved by the dealer tech?

    Anyway, as the work is being done under warranty, sit back & relax and let them replace whatever parts they want to...
     
  3. hawkjm73

    hawkjm73 New Member

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    Alas, I didn't ask what codes they pulled. <face-palm> I would have thought a bad HV relay wouldn't let it start up at all.

    The reader was a ~$60 model from Autozone, and less then a year old. It did successfully read several codes from my own Prius when the communication wire came loose from my CanView. It didn't help that the service guy said P0A80 was the inverter water pump, then some generic hybrid system.

    My current expectation is once they do whatever they want to do tomorrow morning, the code will come back up and back I go. The symptoms sound alot like a failing HV battery to me, but I'd bet they don't want to start off replacing that. ($) I'll ask for a print out of the codes and a battery diagnostic screen when I go back tomorrow.
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Jenny,

    Since the tech has to open up the traction battery case in order to replace a system main relay (SMR), I suggest that you:

    1) confirm that it is an SMR that will be replaced and

    2) if yes, ask if the tech can measure voltages of each battery module while the case is open. If one module shows a markedly lower voltage than the others, that is strong evidence the battery needs to be replaced. (Or else, have the diagnostic laptop generate a voltage report for module pairs, as your prior msg suggested.)

    Also if you have time to check it out you might want to visit while the battery case is open and do a visual inspection for busbar corrosion, electrolyte leakage, etc.
     
  5. Flying White Dutchman

    Flying White Dutchman Senior Member

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    please ask the dealer what code they pulled.
     
  6. hawkjm73

    hawkjm73 New Member

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    Well, day two still yielded no fixed car.

    Yesterdays service guy apparently didn't talk with the tech and told me to completely wrong part. They ordered a battery ECU, not a battery relay. Well, that makes a great deal more sense. Once they got that installed, though, the lights all came back on and a pack of new codes came up. (I apologize! I didn't write them down again!) They went back to the computer, and found that they should have also replaced the hybrid vehicle ECU. That was, of course, not in stock, but will be in tomorrow. In the mean time, they sent me home with a loaner so I can go fetch the car at my leisure tomorrow.

    I did confirm that they did a battery analysis which came up clear. Today's service guy and tech seemed to be rather more on the ball, and everything is still under warranty, so with any luck, the car should be in proper order tomorrow.

    Just out of curiosity, for anyone who may have done it, about how long would you figure it would take one properly equipped person to remove and reinstall the battery ECU?
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Thanks for the update. Hmm, I would be very surprised if both ECUs had failed.

    My guess is that it would take ~2 hours, most of the time spent removing and replacing the hatch trim and the rear seat, surrounding the battery case. How long did the work actually take?
     
  8. hawkjm73

    hawkjm73 New Member

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    Best I could tell was they were working on it about 3.5 hours.

    I'll be getting a full read out when they're all done. In the mean time, we've got a loaner, so they can putz around with whatever they want now. Both computers at once does seem a bit odd...
     
  9. orange4boy

    orange4boy Member

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    Ha Ha!

    Dealer "repair" = Throw parts until the problem goes away.

    "Di - ag - nos - is ??? What is that word that you are saying?"

    Thank your lucky stars it's still under warranty.
     
  10. Flying White Dutchman

    Flying White Dutchman Senior Member

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    mmm not good news.
    the moment where your HV battery will be replaced will come a lot closer
    its cheaper for toyota to replace the ECU's first and hope the HV battery is not te be replaced.

    but 2 ecus mailfunctional is a but IF....

    maybe your lost one of those onlucky ones having a HV battery replaced under warranty?
     
  11. hawkjm73

    hawkjm73 New Member

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    Well, waddya know...

    They got the computer in and, sure enough, it blew again. They are now saying there is an internal short in the HV battery. Still warranty, and we've a loaner, but it will take until at least next Thursday. I will be requiring full documentation, as a dead battery is way outside of normal. I'll update when I get more info.
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    OK, the parts list so far includes:

    1. traction battery ECU
    2. hybrid vehicle ECU
    3. traction battery

    I don't know how a short in the traction battery could provoke a failure in either ECU. However I can see how a short in a system main relay might provoke a failure in the hybrid vehicle ECU. That ECU provides low voltage to the coil terminals of the three relays to close and open the relays at appropriate times.

    If a relay has failed so that high voltage from the switched terminals can pass to the coil terminals, that will certainly zap the hybrid vehicle ECU. Suggest you ask whether the tech has inspected the three relays.

    Did you manage to find out what the current DTC are?
     
  13. hawkjm73

    hawkjm73 New Member

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    Hmm. That sounds rather interesting, considering what the service guy said initially. I haven't been in to the shop since Wednesday, when they claimed Thursday would see me a fixed car and the complete paperwork, so I didn't press for hardcopys then. I will see if they'll give me some paper today. (and all DTC's)

    Would a damaged SMR cause a slow and intermittent degradation in acceleration? Mom had been complaining for a while about hesitation when starting. I had assumed it was the "lurch" from the traction control when the wheels slipped until I drove it. Instead, it felt like when the battery has drained out of its happy zone and was relying on the ICE to get going. By the time the warning light came on, it was pretty much all the time.

    So, do I ask the tech to check on the relays before or after they put in the new battery? <Dr. Evil-pinky-finger-smile> On the other hand, we want to car back sooner rather than later...

    I'll see if I can't actually talk directly with the tech. I have a feeling a lot of info is being lost between him and the service reps. I've been getting bounced between a few reps as we go. The last one actually told me the current failure was the "hybrid inverter computer battery." He meant the traction battery, but I sure haven't heard that name before. I'm not sure the computers were actually damaged per say. They seemed to be working with the concept "these codes involve these parts, so lets replace them and see what happens." Don't see a lot of actually troubleshooting and diagnosis happening here. I really need to get those codes...
     
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I suppose that it is possible that an SMR that has built up resistance across the switched terminals might result in driveability problems. Peak current drawn from/to the battery under heavy load or regen might be 80-100A. From Ohm's law, I^2 x R = P so a tiny resistance across the relay contacts will result in a big power loss.

    Example: assume 100A current and 0.1 ohm resistance across the relay contacts.

    100 ^ 2 x 0.1 = 1,000W power loss. As that loss heats up the relay contacts, that will further erode and pit the contacts leading to greater resistance across the contacts.

    I agree that it would be useful to speak with the tech involved. I've done this when my cars have been in for warranty hybrid repair work. The techs seem to be pleased that a customer cares enough to meet them and inquire into what's going on.

    Ask the tech what s/he is doing to make sure another ECU doesn't fail. If no reasonable plan is articulated, then I recommend you ask for the SMRs to be checked, both to measure resistance across the switched terminals (need to energize the relay coil with 12VDC for this) and to see whether resistance from the switched terminals to the coil terminals is less than infinity.

    I'd think that at minimum the tech should remove the wiring harness connector(s) from the failed ECU and then make the vehicle IG-ON, checking each connector pin to see whether there's excessive DC voltage (measured to ground) on any pin. The diagnostics section of the repair manual provides expected voltages when the connectors are attached to the ECU.

    In general, any DC voltage > 14V would be bad. Then refer to the wiring diagram to see what could cause that excess voltage.

    Assuming the hybrid vehicle ECU is the one that keeps failing, I'd especially check the voltage on terminals CON1, CON2, and CON3 (those are the three terminals that lead to the three SMR coil terminals) to see whether any voltage appears on the wiring harness connector. The voltage should be 0 when the connector is unplugged from the ECU.