Scan Tool for ABS/Actuator and Brake Bleed

Someone just posted a link in a download link for the text stream 15 version All you need is a Windows 7 laptop or something like that and a VCI cable not too too complicated to round up.

 

Replacing the actuator requires both the full bleeding procedure, as well as the linear solenoid relearn.

Techstream can be a good option- lots of ways to do that. Legit is $$ for a short term license from Totota plus a decent VCI cable (open tactrix or maybe nanotech). Bootleg versions are available from ebay - amazon etc. Hacked software can be difficult to install or have functional problems. Clone of a clone VCI cable can be problematic- or not. There are threads in Technical Discussion (mid 2022?) about downloading a VM image with Techstream pre-installed & using a cheap cable.

Or read this thread on scantool apps & devices. Several have ABS bleed options, but ThinkDiag is the only one that has a menu option "Linear Solenoid Relearn". It also is "multi vehicle" BUT is a yearly subscription after 12 months.

The Autel has an option that MIGHT do solenoid relearn (haven't tried it). And it's "no further cost" for 1 brand- any others are annual subscription.

The Anyscan also MIGHT do solenoid relearn, and it covers all makes. No subscriptions. (just not quite as comprehensive as ThinkDiag).

https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

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Worst case, you've got a scan tool that doesn't have the linear solenoid relearn button, and you end up using the "when not using the Techstream" TS to CG jumper method to trigger the relearn. (Note: TS is not the same pin as TC, the one used to retrieve blink codes.)

 

Did you get your bleeding project done and get it to work and if so what did you get to do it with as far as a scan tool I have TIS with the DLC connector with the green light and the lower right corner of the TIS screen and every section of the bleeding I try to do it tells me that conditions aren't met and it yields and I'm stuck No bleeding nothing happening car on ignition just on doesn't seem to matter I have this loud howling sound inside the car that is apparently from low brake pressure telling me not to drive the car which I've already driven the car quite a bit what a real pain. Oh well leave it parked overnight at an angle the next morning when I came out to my '09 I didn't have to do anything but start the car and drive off maybe this car will be just as nice I don't see how factory TIS bleeds the brakes or what conditions I have to meet to believe the brakes this is a brand new 1200 dollar actuator pump assembly behind the inverter on a generation 2 purchased from the dealer brand new in a box.

 

I believe the bleed procedure has to be done in IG-ON, not READY.

How are you getting to IG-ON? Pressing the Power button twice with your foot OFF the brake pedal?

 

Yes I think that is correct No touching the brake pedal and two pushes I believe brings up the whole display You're in park and never moves and I believe the parking brake has to be on to get into the bleeding mode also The main thing I'm trying to figure out is how do I get to the main bleeding mode? I get into ABS VSC TRAC section and I don't see a thing or a line of text to bleed the brakes I see individual things I can bleed like bleed the air and the actuator way down the list there's the right left and right rear brakes I don't see the fronts by themselves etc etc.? In the manual section BR3 or for it talks about getting everything ready and it just says go to VSC ABS TRAC section and select brake bleeding question which I really don't see in the list. And then I thought this would be able to be done by one person It looks like you're going to have to have a person sitting in the car holding a pedal down etc.? I did not realize that.

 

There should be a button in the left column that says something like Active Test. Click that and one should be the bleeding tests. I believe there are a couple of choices depending whether you want to just bleed one wheel or do a full bleed.

Someone whose actually done it will chime in with more accurate details, hopefully.

 

Off the top of my head I seem to remember it being under the UTILITIES button on the left side of the screen.
I get a few options. You want to follow the repair manual procedure, because it has several warnings about what needs to be done, and in what order, prior to and after the actuator replacement. No need to invest big bucks in a new actuator and then do a half *** bleeding it!

IIRC the choices are something like these (but your TS version may be slightly different):

Usual Bleed
Actuator replacement
Master Cylinder or Stroke Cylinder replacement

You definitely should have 2 people to make it faster and easier, especially if you may have had an air bubble move into the master cylinder or stroke simulator. If you didn't do a proper bleed after the initial installation, you probably had a bubble in the actuator that eventually found its way to the MC or SS. The procedure has you pulling relays, stroking the brake pedal, opening and closing the FR and FL bleeders, pumping the brakes 20 times in 20 seconds a few times and then doing bleeders again, blah blah blah, lol. TOTAL PITA if you're trying to do it without a helper.

TS gives you a small screen with a couple steps to perform and then click on next, which has you do more steps then next and over and over. A crappy cable will likely lose connection several times during the procedure, but you should be able to just finish the steps you're on, click the button to re-establish communication, then just get back into the right bleed procedure and click the next button as needed until you get back to where you left off.

 

I think if you look under Active Tests, there are a whole bunch of individual bleed subprocedures in there, but when you look under Utility, you find the brake bleed utility that steps you through the whole process (short process or long process, whichever you pick).

The utility is probably using all those individual active-test bits in some order to do what it does, but using those one-by-one manually would be a painful way to bleed brakes, even if we knew the right order to use them.

 

You want to have a battery charger on your car to maintain 12V power. It can a decent amount of time to complete and often runs the battery down when you have the car powered "ignition on".

Pay attention to any conditions mentioned in Techstream - particularly about parking brake. I forget what it is but at some point you have to have the brake set (or released) and the entire process will fail if that's wrong.

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In the beginning of BR3 it states the parking brake needs to be depressed and the car needs to be on in park or in ACC mode in park but that's about it talks about taking relays out. Like my 09 I prefill the actuator with brake fluid and then I screw all those little plastic caps in so that fluid doesn't run out then I set the actuator on its bracket right side up mount all that in the car I have the reservoir hoses squeezed off with clamps then I release those The master cylinder part on the far right when you're standing in front of the car has not leaked or bled out it's still full of fluid so I undo gently the lines and make sure I have solid drips and no air bubbles pushing out You can see those. Then I do the same on the very top of the actuator to make sure fluid is coming from that hard line into the actuator and it's just fluid no air and then if I check the lines on the side of the actuator but taking caps off one by one I have straight fluid running out of all of those holes and then I put the caps back on to make sure they stay full and I put the lines back on the actuator the exact opposite of the way I took them off and then I make sure fluid runs out of each one of those when I crack the line a little bit with the 10 mm wrench then I tighten them up one at a time to make sure I basically have no air anywhere between these two components. While all this is going on I've left the relays in the remote is 20 ft from the car nothing is happening. I will get it at some point today I do believe

 

Battery is on a tender and it's a very good battery and the hybrid battery when I pulled into do the actuator was in the full green and still is. Yes I have the hybrid battery plug out while the inverter was out during the replacement.