Scangauge II - X-Gauge

Hybrid battery temp

MG1 temp

MG2 temp

Inverter temp

Hybrid battery current in

Hybrid battery current out

Regen brake current

Wayne

 

Wayne,

I think that you nailed the main hybrid parameters (as long as SOC and Traction battery voltage are there).

JeffD

 

Sorry about my ignorance on the scangauge II but things I wish I could see when driving my Prius are: -
energy into and out of traction battery
energy into and out of M1
energy into and out of M2
ICE temperature
HSD temperature
Inverter temperature
and the normal MFD display for power flows and instant fuel consumption.

Something I wish Toyota had included in the MFD is a bar graph of ICE fuel consumption and energy in and out of the electric motors and perhaps the battery. So I can see at a glance where the power is coming from and going to. All this would have fitted in the space of the instant consumption bar graph.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(treehggr @ Sep 17 2007, 08:51 AM) [snapback]513623[/snapback]</div>

I would like to see oil pressure, if that is available.

 

Manifold vacuum. Best instantaneous indicator for how hard the engine is working. High vac = Max efficiency.

Important enough that I am considering a separate vacuum gauge if I can figure out how to hook it up, and if the installation is not some butt-ugly thing that only a hobbit engineer could love.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Doc Willie @ Sep 17 2007, 11:08 AM) [snapback]513693[/snapback]</div>

Interestingly, the Prius has been shown to do the opposite. Low vac = max efficiency. HSD basically runs the engine at a wide throttle opening and then loads it down to reduce RPM, thus controlling power output. That way it's not wasting so much power to suck air against the closed throttle plate. Most of the time you will see anything from 50-80% load on the SG with the high end of that favored once you get above ~1600-ish RPM. The only time you are likely to see high vacuum (low load) is when the engine is running at its minimum power-making speed of something like 1100-1200RPM and it has to close the throttle to cut power. You will see much higher instantaneous FE numbers but the power also drops off to almost nothing. If you're really lucky the system will give up on the ICE at that point and give you stealth mode.

Low vacuum is good for "normal" cars, but only because that's about the best you can do when the engine is mated to a step-gear transmission. Also, manifold vacuum is already built into the SG so you won't have to mess with the X-gauge feature.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(FireEngineer @ Sep 17 2007, 06:56 AM) [snapback]513652[/snapback]</div>

Oooooh! I like these

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jdenenberg @ Sep 17 2007, 09:24 AM) [snapback]513666[/snapback]</div>

Darn, forgot Hybrid battery voltage. Thanks Jeff.

Wayne

 

Sorry, I'm easily sidetracked:

-Battery current
-Battery temp
-Inverter temp
-MG temps
-Battery SoC

 

Hey, prototypes are always butt-ugly! But my panel has no particular
reason to move beyond prototype stage, because it would have to be
completely redesigned from the ground up with components still
available today...
.
There's a vacuum fitting on the manifold in the '04+ that used to
go to the HCAC adsorber blockoff valve actuator in the Classic.
It's just stopped off with a rubber cap, which you can replace with
your vacuum hose. Getting it through the firewall is another
story, but see the imeter page...
.
_H*

 

Does any one know how the fuel trim can be helpful or what good is it to know it?