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Seems like a bunch of issues all of the sudden

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Jay fry, Feb 24, 2021.

  1. Jay fry

    Jay fry Junior Member

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    II
    I’ve been searching and probably just overlooked it but haven’t found much.

    a little while ago our 172k mile, always faithful gen ii threw a check engine light. I don’t recall which code (I think it was related to the accelerator pedal) but the common cause was cited as one of the coolant switches/valves. While researching it I learned that the inverter coolant pump also goes bad often. The light would sometimes go off but then come back. I drove it like this for maybe 20 miles.

    Since we had never changed the coolant, I went full steam ahead and got a new valve, pump and thermostat and new coolant, all from either the local toyota dealer or from a Toyota dealer online.

    I drained, replaced the valve and pump and thermostat, and refilled both engine and inverter coolant. I used the bleeder valves and ended up putting back basically the same amount as what I had pulled out. I didn’t measure exactly but it looks like it’s within half a quart if it’s not the same.

    It had been sitting for a month after the engine light came on and before I worked on it. I had it on a battery tender for all but the last week and when I got to it it was dead. So that cleared the codes. I was able to jumpstart it.

    I ran it around town for about 10 minutes, no problem and the heater worked great like normal. I figured I was done. The next day, Yesterday, I sent my wife and kid on a 2.5-hour drive. No problems.
    Today I took it on the freeway and after about 5 mins the check engine light came back on. After another 5 mins, the res triangle came on. Went off after 10 seconds, came back on for a few seconds about a minute later. It did this a few times before I parked it 3 mins later.

    I figured it was overheating a little but because it would come and go I figured it was hot but not ridiculous. Checked the fluids and they all looked normal levels.

    drove it home, same thing. I pulled the codes and it is 1150.
    Also the heater is cold.

    topped it off (it took maybe 1/2 cup at the most), and let it cool. Drove it around town and the heater was working ok. But then went cold and it started with the red triangle again but didn’t show the overheat icon this time.

    I wonder if I have air bubbles causing it to overheat and a bad pump causing the check engine light??

    any other guesses??
     
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The code you mentioned is not a valid code, there should be a letter in front. If that letter was a P, then that code points you to impairment of the coolant flow through the coolant heat storage tank.
    • If DTCs P1121 and P1150 are detected simultaneously, there may be a malfunction in the water valve system.
    • If DTC P1121 is detected, coolant passages may be clogged.
    • To check the coolant heat storage (CHS) system, the ECM may cause the water pump of the CHS system to operate 5 hours after the power switch has been turned OFF.
    • Read freeze frame data using the Techstream. Freeze frame data records the engine condition when the malfunction is detected. When troubleshooting, freeze frame data can help determine if the vehicle was running or stopped, if the engine was warmed up or not, if the air-fuel ratio was lean or rich, and other data from the time the malfunction occurred.
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    any other guesses??

    Not really a guess, more like a suggestion:

    Ensure you are differentiating between the engine cooling water pump (and coolant loop), inverter cooling water pump (and coolant loop), the coolant heat storage tank water pump or the heater water pump.
     
  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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  5. Jay fry

    Jay fry Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Figured I’d wrap this up by saying it was a matter of air in the cooling system. I rigged up a funnel from the radiator neck holding it high and full of coolant and after letting it idlle for a while it burped all of the air out and it ran great after.

    Ed’s response was probably the most helpful though. Haha