SEGA64 gen4 to gen3 engine swap

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by sega64, Nov 6, 2020.

  1. sega64

    sega64 New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2020
    26
    16
    0
    Location:
    Olympia WA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    No. I don’t think so. Not even sure what you mean by that.

    Ive been doing a lot of digging and I think I might have figured out the problem.

    Other threads with all the gen4 swap OGs were having my same issue and it was air trapped in the system. They cut the thermostat jiggle pin and it seemed to fix everyone’s problem. Seemed like everyone went through all the same steps and issues I did as well with installing new/diff water pumps and thermostats.

    Gonna drain the system and pull the thermostat AGAIN (hate that one rear bolt) and remove the pin and reinstall.

    Thank you for the input thus far.
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    45,582
    32,540
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Stop leak is a product that "seals" leaking head gaskets, and leaves clots of white gunk all through the system.
     
    sega64 likes this.
  3. sega64

    sega64 New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2020
    26
    16
    0
    Location:
    Olympia WA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    oh ok. ive noticed nothing like that
     
  4. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    1,385
    1,493
    38
    Location:
    Evansville, IN
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    The important thing about the jiggle pin, or hole left behind when you cut it, it must be up, not down. Otherwise, the purpose of it being there is defeated.
     
    sega64 likes this.
  5. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    1,385
    1,493
    38
    Location:
    Evansville, IN
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    The best thing I found for that rear bolt is a combo effect. Unbolt AC compressor and suspend it with a bungie cord, and use a 1/4 nut driver handle that can accept a 1/4 ratchet, and a shallow well socket to fit the bolt.
     
    sega64 likes this.
  6. sega64

    sega64 New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2020
    26
    16
    0
    Location:
    Olympia WA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    I thought you just removed the pin and reinstalled. But you mentioning leaving something up confused me. I’m sure I will understand when I take a look at it when I pull it out.
     
  7. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2018
    1,385
    1,493
    38
    Location:
    Evansville, IN
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    The spot in the t-stat where the jiggle pin is, must point to the sky. If it’s pointed to the ground, then it’s in the wrong position. There is only a small chance that it’s assembled in the housing incorrectly, but it never hurts to double check.
     
    sega64 likes this.
  8. sega64

    sega64 New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2020
    26
    16
    0
    Location:
    Olympia WA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two

    Ok. I cut the pin out. Made it so the orientation of the pin hole is at the 12’o clock position (took me awhile to understand what you meant by keep the jiggle pin to the sky lol) and flushed my heater core while I was at it (no gunk came out) and the car is running great, coolant hoses are all getting warm like they should and I’m getting heat in the cabin!

    I really appreciate all of your feedback @cnc97 and @Mendel Leisk ✌️

    This swap was fun and a little frustrating and I won’t feel 100% confident about my swap until I drive it daily for awhile without issues. But I feel really good about where I’m at with it right now.
     
  9. sega64

    sega64 New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2020
    26
    16
    0
    Location:
    Olympia WA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Took it on its first drive today.

    After reaching 20mph or so, all dash lights (ABS warning etc) wiped itself clean. So that was nice.

    I drove to the pressure wash station to finally clean it properly. All the oil from blowing the rod is caked under the car and up the back trunk/glass. So it’s nice to have it clean again.

    I lost heat again in the cabin but I’m just gonna assume this will work itself out over time like @Ragingfit mentioned in one of his YouTube videos. He had the same issue, but over the course of a week of driving or something, it worked the air out and the heat came back normal.

    I never got any high temp warnings or anything.

    One thing I did notice though was how much the car shutters at 1/4 throttle. Not sure what that’s all about.
     
  10. PNP3

    PNP3 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2020
    20
    2
    0
    Location:
    Philly
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----

    Are you getting hear in cabin now?
     
  11. PNP3

    PNP3 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2020
    20
    2
    0
    Location:
    Philly
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    heat*
     
  12. Ultimate_Combination

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2020
    43
    35
    0
    Location:
    Durham, NC
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Wow, I ordered my engine from this same reseller!
    2018 Engine w 27k for $12xx shipped, and here's how it arrived (green straps were loose and garbage bag wrap was loose, and it was laying just like this on the pallet)
    [​IMG]

    - No Intake or Exhaust manifolds, no Water Pump

    I see you were able to get some cash back, so I might as well complain to the seller too- I would have loved to have had the water pump to use and sell off the manifolds!

    I'll work on getting started to install this next week
     
  13. tony_2018

    tony_2018 Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2019
    129
    45
    0
    Location:
    78717
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    It might've occurred when the truck took delivery of it.
     
  14. PNP3

    PNP3 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2020
    20
    2
    0
    Location:
    Philly
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    This is in regards to overheating issue after swap.

    From @Ragingfit -

    Sergiy Kovalevych10 hours ago
    Installed a 2016 prius engine in to 2010 prius. Burned two electric coolant pumps(an impeller stuck melted), because of overheating of the engine. The coolant system was creating air bubbles. The problem was very difficult to figure out. The solution was very simple. The level of an expansion tank hose ,which goes from the connection on the engine head to expansion tank must be only up!!! No sag or dip of the hose. By the correct hose leve the bubbles will freely come out to the coolant expansion tank, will not go back to the engine head or to the cabin heating coil. Driving vehicle around 20000 miles (1 year). Didn't have any problems anymore. Good luck guys.
    View attachment 203730
    View attachment 203729
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    45,582
    32,540
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    For 2010 and 2011, leave the coolant air bleed valve open when filling, till coolant starts coming out. For 2012 onwards (for which the valve has been deleted), disconnecting topmost hose at same location achieves same I think.

    I recent changes the coolant using that method to refill, and had no problems. Did a protracted engine run and level never dropped. Some months later still stable and no problems.
     
Loading...