Speedometer Display Repair

This is from memory, so bear with me.

Open the rear hatch. Leave it open.
Disconnect the large and small 12 v battery wires from the (+) terminal assembly
Open both front doors. Leave them open.
Start on driver side.
Remove the left most vent trim. Remove the screw that is under this cover (at bottom) and the screw on the bottom trim plate.
Remove the bottom trim plate under the steering wheel. Disconnect the wires for the KEY and SET buttons. Disconnect the 2 wires from the FOB slot.
Remove the upper trim cover and disconnect the wire to the power button.
Remove the center left vent panel.
At the far left edge of the dash, remove the small trim plate under the A pillar trim.
Remove the left A Pillar trim. ( use needle nose pliers to twist the retainer 90 degrees so it releases the trim.
Disconnect the 2 large wire harness connectors directly above the steering wheel.
Move to passenger side.
Remove the bottom half of the glove box.
Remove the right most vent trim.
Remove the upper glovebox. There are two screws located behind small circular covers. Use a pick to remove those covers.
Remove the center right vent assembly
Remove the two bolts holding the MFD. (10mm hex head) and pull the MFD straight out. Disconnect the wires from the back.
Remove the two pieces for the right A pillar, same way as the left.
Look upward under the dash from where the lower glovebox was. There will be 2 bolts fastening the air bag to the dash frame. 12mm hex head. Remove these bolts. The airbag electrical connector is the bright yellow connector at the back right of the area where the glovebox used to be. This is a special connector and you have to slide the locking tab forward to get it to separate.
The dash cover will have several tabs that lock it to the dash frame, they will release with some gentle upward prying.At this point, the dash should be free and you can remove it from the car.

Set it down (upside down) on a blanket or tarp.
Remove the combo meter assembly. I typically remove it completely and take the entire assembly to my soldering bench.
I think it has around 12 silver headed screws fastening it to the dash plastic.
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to push in the tab locks to unmount the wire harness in two places where the tabs stick into the plastic.
Disconnect the large wire harness plug from the combo meter.
Take the combo meter to where you're going to be soldering.
Remove the philips screws that lock the white plastic cover in place. There are several plastic tabs on that cover that also click into place and hold it fixed to the meter. Use a small screwdriver to pry them up slightly to get the cover off.
There are 2 ribbon cables plugged into the combo meter. On each ribbon cable, you will see a small tab on each side. Those tabs are the locking device that holds the cable in place. Push them away from the plug until both are fully open, then the ribbon cable can be slid back.
Remove the circuit board and pull the small wire connector off.
Replace the capacitor.
Put it all back together again.
Do not forget to reconnect the ribbon cables. If you do, the speedometer/odometer will still work, but nothing else. No READY light, warning lights,etc.

Yes, I've done this a few times. I think that pretty much covers it, but there's always a chance something is missing.
You-tube probably has some videos also.
If you destroy the vent trim (90% chance), no big deal. You can get a complete 4 piece set on amazon for about 50 bucks. They come bare so you'll have to use your original black vents. They just clip into place. You may want to order that ahead of time.

After the dash is put back in place and wires plugged in (2 big white ones and the yellow one), but before assembling everything else, I usually connect the MFD and pop the power switch and FOB slot out of the trim piece and plug them in. Reconnect the 12v battery and test it to make sure everything works. If so, go ahead and finish assembly. If not, check your connections on the combo meter.