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Starting a Gen1, after sitting 12months?

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by TexomaEV, Dec 11, 2010.

  1. TexomaEV

    TexomaEV Member

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    Guys, I either bought a goldmine or a landmine for $1500. It's a 2002 Prius, which has been sitting for well over a year now without being started, due the HV Battery failed.

    We've dissected the HV Battery and found one of the sense lines so corroded it disconnected, giving a P3030 error code I think. Anyhow we've cleaned up all the bussbars, coated them with "No Ox ID - Special A" , repaired the sense line harness, and are precharging the pack at the moment.

    Is there a method of priming the engine in order to get fuel through the system, or am I going to have to try and turn over the engine long enough to get fuel through the system? Of course it would be sitting with a FULL tank. I fear the gasoline has soured to the point the engine won't run on it. I had hoped if that was the case, I could just fill it up with good fuel, but I can't at this point without figuring out a way to drain the tank if it comes to that.

    Having an itchy keyswitch finger, I tried to start it after just a few minutes on charge, and the engine only turns over for a couple of revolutions before stopping. Then it throws a P3006 error and stops trying to start. I know I will just have to wait till the pack is fully charged and balanced before going much farther, but I had to try!
     
  2. mlibanio

    mlibanio Member

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    I think if you just stick the key in and put it in the ON position, give it about 10 seconds, the system should prime itself during this period and get it ready before you move the key to the START position after that. I know most normal cars function in this way, and I am sure the Prius with its even tighter emissions controls will do the same.
     
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  3. mlibanio

    mlibanio Member

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    Oh you may also want to get a bottle of starter spray just to help her along. Not for too long mind you as you may obliterate the O2 sensors and send trouble codes flying, just while its trying to turn over or just before so the vapours will help her along. Otherwise, if battery condition is okay, and you have checked all the regulars, ignition wires, spark plugs, filter, oil and oil filter it should be fine. Also maybe try using a 0w20 (30%) and a 10W30(70%) mix so that on first start up the oil will flow through the oil pump easier and clear any contamination in the system. I also highly and SUPER strongly recommend a can of Ward's Tuneup in a can (the white and purple pop can looking kind), and put that in the motor. That stuff did wonders on an old 1995 Suzuki Swift that I was working on that had not started in almost 2 years! Good luck and keep us posted!
     
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  4. drew_flux

    drew_flux Junior Member

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    what does dtc p3006 come up as? i think from memory, its engine fails to start?. i would remove the code first,as it may not alow further starting atempts. then apply 12 volts to the fuel pump connector for a few seconds (the two big wires at the bottom of the comector) to prime the fuel line/injectors.
     
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  5. TexomaEV

    TexomaEV Member

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    I think the P3006 has something to do with the battery modules being out of balance.

    I continued to charge the entire pack today for 8 hours with a very low amp (something like 350ma) 336~vdc charger "see attached photo". Will let it sit overnight to see where each module self discharges to. I'm sure there will be a few modules that will have to be replaced.

    Oddly enough the dash display shows the HV battery now to be 3/4 charged, yet still the engine only turns over for a couple of revolutions and stops. I can keep turning the key off, and back on again and continue, but no engine start. I still get the P3006 code, so I suspect under load some battery modules are not holding up.

    I'll try your suggestions from the other posts, when the weather permits. A nice northern just blew in, and I don't like being a COLD shadetree mechanic.
     

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  6. TexomaEV

    TexomaEV Member

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    HV Battery now somewhat charged, a bit out of balance due to a few cells that won't hold a good charge.

    Now, suddenly the engine has stopped turning over, the READY light blinks on/off in tune with a relay in the HV Battery electronics, and then eventually throws a P3006 code.

    When my scanguage II arrives are there any suggestions as to what XGuages I should start out with, to see if there are underlying issues other than about 3 weak battery modules?

    The first Prius we worked on rebuilding the HV Battery never had a problem starting the engine with weak cells, it would eventually throw the P3006 and then the codes for the weak blocks, yet it would always start.

    Wondering if there are codes in other ECU's I'm not seeing with the old scanguage II that doesn't have xguage capability.

    Anyone ever have the "READY" display blink on/off while trying to start, and then eventually throw the P3006 code?
     
  7. oldnoah

    oldnoah Member

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    Can you post the voltages of your modules here? Did you record them before you started charging? I'd like to see what they look like in a battery that sat for a year.

    I don't have any suggestions as to what to look for with the scangauge, at least until the car runs somewhat.

    You might try putting a pressure gauge in the fuel line before the injectors. That would at least tell you if the injectors are getting pressure.
     
  8. TexomaEV

    TexomaEV Member

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    I didn't write down the voltage of each of the 19 blocks, but most of them were 0.00 volts, only about 8 of them had any voltage that ranged from 6 to 9 volts per block. As a matter of fact, we had to jump start the 0.00 volt blocks with a 12volt battery in order to pump some voltage into them, before our smart charger would even begin to attempt charging.

    Yesterday, after the battery sat untouched for 24hrs in freezing weather, these were the readings on the 19 blocks open circuit:

    1 - 15.8
    2 - 12.4
    3 - 12.6
    4 - 13.8
    5 - 12.4
    6 - 13.0
    7 - 12.4
    8 - 14.3
    9 - 13.3
    10 - 16.3
    11 - 13.6
    12 - 13.9
    13 - 13.6
    14 - 15.6
    15 - 14.7
    16 - 15.7
    17 - 13.3
    18 - 16.2
    19 - 15.9
     
  9. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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  10. TexomaEV

    TexomaEV Member

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    That's not an option for us.

    Simply having the students swap out a battery isn't teaching them anything valuable. If it comes down to it, the worse would be to have them rebuild the old OEM pack with 38 gen2 cells. Which in reality would not be bad as they will learn more in the process, yet cost more for those 38 cells, -vs- just a few of the gen1 cells if we are not able to salvage most of the gen1 cells.

    Our previous project car, ended up only needing 2 gen1 cells replaced, and I'm still driving that vehicle today, with almost 10K on the rebuilt pack.
     
  11. oldnoah

    oldnoah Member

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    Based on what I saw with my battery autopsy, any module with less than 6.5 volts is junk. You only list the module pairs, so I can't see whether a 13 volt block is 2 6.5 volt modules or one 5.5 volt module and one 7.5 volt module, but really I don't see much chance for this battery being rebuildable.

    From some of your comments I assume this is a class project, and that you are either a high school shop teacher or a vocational school teacher. In either case I think the valuable lesson here would be to divide the problem into systems that can be addressed individually. With a car that's sat for a year you've got a multivariable problem, not an easy situation.

    But you also say that you have a similar project car from last year. Why not swap the battery from that one into this one? If it spins, fires, starts and runs, then great, you can go back to working on the battery. But chances are you'll have some teaching opportunities just getting the engine running.
     
  12. TexomaEV

    TexomaEV Member

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    UPDATE: We piggybacked a a Pb acid battery pack and capacitor bank onto the oem pack today.

    Car started, died a few times, but once was able to get into force charge mode and get the engine warmed up it smoothed out enough to get to a station and force as much premium fuel into the tank as possible. Seems to run and drive fine now. Photos at:

    Flickr: M.Barkley's Photostream

    Now that we know the car is ok, we plan to rebuild the oem pack with gen II cells.