Stuck spark plugs

You have not bought the car yet and you're worried about a spark plug change at 90,000 kilometers? :lol: :lol: Take it to the dealer and let them worry about it. B)

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Albertus @ Mar 3 2007, 11:32 AM) [snapback]399556[/snapback]</div>

You'll have to do a lot better than just "people say..." if you want an answer.

1. What people?

2. What cars? What engines?

3. Were the plugs the originals from the factory, or replacements?

If you cite an article about the problem, perhaps we can read the article and comment. Otherwise it's just a rumor, and you can fear any number of rumored problems with any car.

 

To all Prius folk who may visit this discussion:

Your original Iridium plugs will almost certainly be fine for 100k miles, or more. If some gogetter maint person wants to take a peek earlier, no problem, just put the originals back in with some 'antisieze' on the threads. Avoiding pasting that stuff on the innermost thread is good practice.

Eventually, I suppose, new plugs will be required (I say this even though my 2001 Prius has 103k miles and is not there yet). Do not replace them with anything less than Nippondenso or NGK Iridium plugs. The appropriate part #s we could probably provide, but for almost all it is way too early to be concerned.

I suppose that just about everybody here understands that the Prius engine lives a very easy life, and the plugs etc. are going to last for-freaking-ever. Any questions? Just ask.

 

the only plugs DH has seen seize, were on an 87 4runner.

 

With aluminum cylinder heads, it's actually quite easy to find a stuck plug after some time in service. As an example, I used to have a 2000 GMC Sierra, which had an iron block, aluminum head Vortec 5.3 litre V8. In 2002 I got a tank of bad gas and picked up a misfire. Had a hell of a time getting the plugs out, they made a horrible screeching noise. I was really worried I would snap one off.

Last fall I took the plugs out of my Prius to inspect them. They seemed fine, but they were absolutely "tight" and it was obvious they had been put in dry. I carefully smeared a bit of Loctite Nickel Grade anti seize compound on the threads, properly torqued them down, and can rest easy knowing in the future the plugs should be easy to remove.

As far as worrying about things, try heavy drinking. That works for me.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jayman @ Mar 4 2007, 12:21 AM) [snapback]399724[/snapback]</div>

But please, never drink from the dealer bulk oil barrel.

http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=14829

http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=27824

http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=29267

http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=28939

Oh, and I really respect Albertus too. Finally somebody who worries more than I do, I didn't even think about the spark plugs. But now I'm not going to be able to sleep until I strip the spark plugs from their cylinder head threads.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Albertus @ Mar 3 2007, 12:32 PM) [snapback]399556[/snapback]</div>

Most likely they have steel inserts and have had anti-seize lubricant on the threads. Time in the engine won't matter with anti-seize compound. Mind your torque specs and use an anti-seize when you put new ones in.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Display Name @ Mar 5 2007, 07:40 PM) [snapback]400667[/snapback]</div>

Perhaps they have steel inserts (I don't know), but in a post just above, Jayman (March 3rd, 7:21 p.m.) indicates his plugs (presumably from the factory) had been put in dry.

When I have time this summer, I may be removing mine just to put on anti-seize compound.

Dave M.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Albertus @ Mar 3 2007, 02:32 PM) [snapback]399556[/snapback]</div>

Toyota doesn't seem to use any anti-sieze. I just changed the plugs on my '00 Tundra, and they came out OK after 7 years and 75K miles. If they are quality plugs with plating, they don't seem to stick. I did use anti-sieze on the new plugs in the Tundra, and I pulled out the plugs on our Prius and added some anti-sieze. I suspect that was probably more for my paranoia than anything else though.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Albertus @ Mar 3 2007, 02:32 PM) [snapback]399556[/snapback]</div>

My friend's prius spark plug got stuck after 90 000 km, he overlooked that it shoud be... Which cost him a lot of money trying to get it out... It was not only that his car got hurt but his wallet too... LOL... Really thankful, it does not seem to happen to my Volkswagen sparks plugs, beside im too careful to overlooked anything that could hurt my baby...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Albertus @ Mar 3 2007, 02:32 PM) [snapback]399556[/snapback]</div>

My friend's prius spark plug got stuck after 90 000 km, he overlooked that it shoud be... Which cost him a lot of money trying to get it out... It was not only that his car got hurt but his wallet too... LOL... Really thankful, it does not seem to happen to my Volkswagen sparks plugs, beside im too careful to overlooked anything that could hurt my baby...

 

I replaced the plugs in my 2001 Classic last year, and while they weren't totally seized, they were very close to it.. It took a lot of care and nervous sweat to get the stuck plugs out (search the archives for my story).. When out, it was quite obvious that absolutely NO antiseize compound was used on the plugs at the factory..

My recommendation therefore, would be to take the plugs out when the vehicle is still fairly new and still easy to remove, apply a good grade of anti-seize compound to the threads and then re-install.. This way, when it finally does come time to change the plugs, many years down the line, they will be easy to remove without risk of damaging the aluminum head..

 

One other bit of advice, which might or might not be fairly obvious, is to wait until the cylinder head is cool. If you try working on it while hot, especially with an aluminum cylinder head, you stand a much greater risk of stripping the threads.

I'm also wondering about how using the anti-seize compound affects the torque requirement for the spark plugs. Some items, such as wheel lug nuts, require that the threads are dry.

 

You know who says that kind of junk? The short life plug manufacturer.

 

This is a genuine concern. The plug threads go in bone-dry, and some
metal-to-metal bonding takes place over time and numerous thermal
cycles. I pulled mine and anti-seized them last year and I'm glad
I did, because it felt like I had to *very* carefully work the
threads back and forth on the way out to avoid ripping something.
That was at 35K or so, and there are war-stories from the road of
it being totally impossible by the time 100K hits.
.
So, yeah, get out there when the weather warms up and pull 'em for
a looksee. Get some practice taking the cowl off. It's fun.
.
_H*

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hobbit @ Mar 6 2007, 11:41 AM) [snapback]401055[/snapback]</div>

Gad. I've got 41K on mine now. Maybe I'd better pull them this weekend, rather than waiting until summer.

Dave M.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hobbit @ Mar 6 2007, 02:41 PM) [snapback]401055[/snapback]</div>

Great pages. That pic of the engine block showing where the hole is for the block heater was
very helpful when I installed mine last fall. Thanks!

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hobbit @ Mar 6 2007, 11:41 AM) [snapback]401055[/snapback]</div>

Well, if you're talking about the cowl below the wipers covering the tray that collects all the pine needles (or whatever other debris lurks in your neighborhood), I've had it off twice. The second time I actually got the block heater installed. It's probably due for another cleaning anyway. And, I can give a feel of the block heater to see if it's stayed in position. Presumably it has, since it's heating the engine okay.

Dave M.