After three oil changes and using the same oil drain plug gasket, I have experienced no leaks. The secret is apparently TEFLON or PTFE (polytetraflourethylene). It is immune to UV and most all chemicals found in motor oil and debris. It's pliability allows it to remold itself to the irregularities of both the drain plug and oil drain pan's surface with each succeeding reinstaĺation. There is no need to tighten the drain plug to 28 ft lbs. The "squeezed" out portion of the washer automatically indicates that the drain plug is sufficiently tightened. Because it slick Teflon, it will never stick or fuse to the oil pan I r the drain plug. Teflon seals have long been used in high temperature oil refinery applications.
I have a lifetime gasket. It is called Fumoto. IIRC, before Fumoto, I used to reuse washer several times (five IIRC), before replacing and never had leaks YMMV
I've reused the plain aluminum washer on multiple occasions w/o issues or over-torquing the plug. When I see dust streaks moving back from the drain plug; I know it's seeping. At that point I have no choice but to replace that washer. I can usually get 4-5 oil changes on the same washer, before that starts happening. I always keep spares on-hand; just too lazy to go find one; while I'm under the car. FWIW; This is the thick OEM washer, NOT the thin blue flimsy one they are currently selling. I do flip the washer over each time, so there's always a different mating surface - don't know if that makes a difference. It's aluminum, so I figure it'll crush down and seal; but your only going to get so many compressions before it starts seeping. YMMV......
I actually broke my cardinal rule, reused the transaxle coolant fluid drain bolt washer recently, but other'n that I've always used new. Plain aluminum is best I think. I've had no problems with the coated, Toyota oil plan drain bolt washer, but with similar Honda washer, I started noticing every subsequent time I went to break the bolt loose it seemed barely finger-tight. Whatever coating it had was way too compressible. Next time I was at the dealership I asked if they had a plain aluminum alternate, and it was "yup, here you go".
Mendel: Were you not getting a washer for "free" everytime you bought a filter from Toyota? I was, and it seems several people on the forum mentioned free washers. After collecting a half dozen or so I politely began refusing. The dealer price was comparable to the Napa Gold and other aftermarket filters. They know me now, so don't know if they still routinely throw in a washer.
No; I see last time the washer was $2.11 CDN. Flipping back: in September 2022 it was $1.36. Maybe tariffs at work.
It depends on the dealership your buying from. I just discovered the online back-doors to my local Toyota and Lexus dealerships. Those prices are competitive to the other on-line OEM retailers. They've privately stated to me that they couldn't give me the on-line prices, even if I asked. They said; just order and pay for it on-line - if it's in stock, it'll take 3-4 hours before it's ready for pickup. don't do this on a weekend, it may not be ready until Monday. The prices seem to be a jobber price, but without having to file resale paperwork and documented business license. They gave me free washer with my last filters purchased. They were basically priced the same as a bottom rung Fram filter.
The steel drain plugs and crush washers that Toyota uses are a throwback to the days of steel and cast iron oil pan drain plugs and cast iron differential cases. I now use magnetic hex head drain plugs with Teflon sealing washers. After years in use with road salt and debris, a socket head steel drain plug with a dissimilar metal aluminum crush washer will corrode and seize together making the assembly hard to remove and the socket head easier to strip out. An aluminum drain plug will not likely corrode when threaded into aluminum threads of the transaxle case especially when the threads are continuously bathed in transaxle oil. With Teflon sealing washers, aluminum will not stick to the surface on either the transaxle case or the base of the drain bolt head. The hex head eliminates strip out experienced with a socket head. As a preventive measure, I would early on replace the fill plug of the transaxle which requires no drain of any fluid. Starting with the Gen 3, Toyota eliminated the magnet in the transaxle drain plug. With steel gear detritus, a magnet is a plus.
I find it difficult to believe that a steel plug with an aluminum washer going into a steel pan would corrode and sieze. Does this person NOT do oil changes? Are they one of those people that stick a tube down the dip-stick tube and suck it out; maybe not change the oil filter and call it a day? I know a lot of dumb people, but even a moron should know better. Had a guy once ask me how much to replace their dip stick tube. I told him; "I don't know, I need to look at it to see how difficult it would be to snake the new tube down." Asked him how the tube got broken and he stated that it happened when they were doing an oil change. I told him; "What the heck are you talking about??" Then he explained how the people he was taking the car to did this. Asked; are they going to reimburse you for this repair? He states they moved and he can't find them. There's a reason why that service was abnormally cheap and I wouldn't really call that a valid oil change - because leaving junk in the bottom of your pan kinda defeats the purpose and if you not lifting the car; is the filter being replaced? I know some cars, the oil filter is on top (ie. newer Subaru).