TOYOTA PRIUS READY SIGNAL BUT HAS NO POWER ON DRIVE OR REVERSE!,HELP

Without the error codes and other metrics from the control computers, I have no idea. It sounds like the inverter may be failing so we'll need to sub-codes. It could as simple as an interlock signal missing.

Search the messages to see what has been found in the past. I remember one associated with an inverter interlock signal that passes through the microswitch by the orange plug and on to the HV ECU. A simple retry of the ignition switch seemed to bypass the block. But this would never a documented procedure in the Toyota manuals.

BTW, you might update your location. Sometimes this can lead to finding other, local Prius resources to help in the diagnosis and/or locating spare parts.

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson

 

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i already bought a spare INVERTER just 2 hours ago. and i replaced the water pump and it seems to me the OLD water pump was actually working, BUT no water is flowing through the coolant. what does this mean?

• Air bubble - bleeding air out of the inverter coolant loop is a pain in the nice person but critical.
• Sounds like running but failed - it sounds like but is not spinning.
• The coolant can form a gel and block the passage ways. Blow out the lines to make sure there are no obstructions. Include the coolant radiator mounting in front of the engine radiator.

i am going to try installing the spare inverter. i do not have any codes, i never got codes.

• Prius-aware scanners are not that common. What make and model?
• What are the 19 module pair voltages from the traction battery?

but i have 30 day warranty on the BIG battery in the back so im going to switch the inverter then replace the big battery again to see if it works.

• Diagnosis of the problem(s) is more important than swapping parts.

Question:what is an interlock inverter switch? where can i RETRY it or RESET it? Thanks

ok The Switch your referring to is the the orange plug on the BIG battery in the back on the left side? i took the terminals off the 12v battery, then i took the orange plug out and put it back in and then locked it. and put the terminals back on. carl still does not RuN back or Forth, but it starts in Ready, and on DRIVE the engine makes a shutter sound but thats all. and coolant still does not flow but pump is running properly.

• Does the engine continue to run in "P"?
• When the engine runs, does the power flow display show a charge going to the traction battery?
• Does the engine shut off by itself after ~5 minutes?
• How did you bleed the air from the inverter loop?

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Bob Wilson

 

The Prius is a computer operated car. We operate the computers but they make everything else work. Without a Prius-aware scanner to 'talk with the computers,' we are rapidly going to reach a point where stuff that isn't broke gets broken trying to swap with something else. It is that serious.

I don't mind that this car was retrieved from a junkyard. What I do mind is trying to diagnose a computer operated vehicle by ignoring the computers.

Look, you can buy a 'mini-VIC' via Ebay (~$30) and after the firmware update, it gives a full picture of what is going on in the car. You can buy a ScanGauge II ($150) and program in XGAUGEs to read out the diagnostic information. You can buy an "AutoEnginuity" ($500) and it provides all of the functions of the Toyota TechStream. You can even subscribe to Toyota's TIS service and get a TechStream-Lite diagnostic ($1,000-1,500.) There are reports of other 3d party diagnostic systems but I have not tested them.

I understand that trying to repair a car in an area with poor Prius support is not going to be fun or cheap. If worse comes to worse and there is a Toyota dealer, tow the car there and pay for a one-time dump of all codes and traction battery values, ($100-150 depending upon negotiating skills.)

Perhaps some of our collaborators here might have insights to share. I'm just rapidly running out until you get a Prius aware scanner. Ordinary scanners will only report emissions codes, not the ones needed to diagnose and fix a broken Prius.

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson

 

The NHW11 uses ISO-9141/KWP2000 protocol, just the "L" and "K" lines along with power from the OBD connector. If the scanner tries to 'auto discover' the protocol, the attempt at CANbus testing can induce false codes on the brake controller computer. They look bad but harmless . . . don't panic.

Just disconnect the 12V ground for half a minute to clear all codes. Then restart the car to generate the recurring errors.

Then go back to the scanner manual and see if you can force it to use ISO-9141/KWP2000. If the unit is not half-bad, you'll be in good shape. But it is unlikely their over-the-counter scanners will be able to get the Prius-aware codes needed.

When I was testing over-the-counter OBD scanners, I first asked 'what is your return policy.' When they failed, I took them back without a twinge. Inferior products should be returned!

Bob Wilson

 

Well you've stumped me.

Bob Wilson

 

Its hard to GUESS without codes ,but I am gonna suggest that it will be your transmission that is bad.. Also can you let us know where you are located as there are folks on here who will help each other out..Let us know what the codes are please..

 

check with car-part.com they sometimes have something thats priced fair. Sorry I am not in your area or I would offer to help you out..Goodluck ..let us know what happens..