TS Codes C1252, C1256, C1391, Prius 2005, 105k, Had Front Brakes and Rotors Replaced 4 Months ago

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by davefmy, Dec 8, 2017.

  1. davefmy

    davefmy Junior Member

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    Greetings,

    I've had my Prius since new (2005) and have had the Main Prius Battery replace in Tampa a couple of years back. In July of this year, I had the Front brakes Pads and Rotors replaced (4 Months ago) as it was scraping and damaged the Rotors. It was done by a small repair shop where we used to live in Fla, am now in SC. We did not have any problems for a couple of months (about 1200+ miles) then the BRAKE ((!)) VBS VSC lights came on, it was driven, on and off for a month with no problems, Brakes seemed fine the entire time. I know it should have been looked at then. The Car was being using while I was away with family issues. I am back now and the Brakes (of course) started having issues. Goes thru swings of working fine, then Brakes are hard to press, Sometimes Locks up on stops, VBS loud beep is recently being heard, then it goes away, but it does come back. Motor/Pump is kicking in when you press on the brakes to start. and when you are close to the car with the keyfob, if brakes are soft you can at times feel the pressure building up pushing back on your foot.

    Before I jump and think its the Hydro-Booster Pump Motor could maybe the recent front brake being replaced and rotor have something to do with these problems?

    In my reading up I have seen others with similar problems that ended up bleeding the brakes to fix the issues, a kink in the brake lines, to a relay (Toyota Prius Lexus ABS Relay 88263-32070) that can go bad after changing the pads. (I have that on order)

    I have looked at the Front wheels and Taken photos at this link -> https://photos.app.goo.gl/TTPTqDh3Jkt0eSc43 if maybe they might show something to someone.

    Any Ideas what direction I should go would be greatly appreciated and Many Thanks ahead of time!


    I ran TechStream v12 and v8 (never used either before today) and got :

    ABS/VSC/TRAC: C1252 (Current) - Hydro-Booster Pump Motor
    ABS/VSC/TRAC: C1256 (Current) - ACCumulator Low Pressure
    ABS/VSC/TRAC: C1391 (Current) - Abnormal Leak of ACC Press

    Also got a few others that had no idea of :

    Air Conditioner : B1421 (Current) - Solar Sensor Circuit (Passenger Side)
    Air Conditioner : B1442 (History) - Air Inlet Damper Control Servemotor
    Cruise Control: P0571 (Current) - Brake Switch "A" Circuit

    Some Snap shots of the live data:
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  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I believe there's an extended warranty for this brake issue. And it expires December 2017. So you might want to get this checked out at the dealer ASAP. Verify the extended warranty campaign is available for your car.......I'm pretty sure it is.
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You'll always have the 'current' B1421 solar sensor code if it's dusk or night (or indoors) when you read the codes.

    As for the historical servomotor code, I'd make a note of it, clear it, and see if it ever comes back.

    As for the brake codes, sure does look like the accumulator/pump, some kind of leak in the actuator, or both. You've got a Gen 2, where those are combined in one assembly anyway, so there's little point in trying to pin it down further. As JC91006 suggested, it's worth checking whether replacement will be covered under a warranty extension.

    -Chap
     
  4. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    In my view, this might be some kind of coincidence, since prior to the brake job, you've never experienced something like this.

    Y not erase the codes first, then drive, and see what happens? Is the low pressure...code comes up again as a current code, you've got to try checking if your brake fluids is at the right level on the reservoir. If it is, then the abs pump accumulator has some issues. Check if your warranty still stands on that.

    I don't think the relay you've placed an order for would do any good. But you could try it though.

    The buzzer noise was just an indication of something wasn't OK on the brake system.

    For the solar ..code, does the AC system intermittently work, and stops cooling sometimes? If it does, check the dashboard to see if the solar sensor has fallen off, or has being covered with dust.

    Pls, get back to the house, and tell us how it went.


    Dxta
     
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  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Don't worry about the B1421 unless you know the sensor was in direct sunlight when you read the codes. It is normal to see that code whenever the sensor is shaded or in the dark, as the repair manual will tell you.

    The buzzer noise is an indicator that "something wasn't OK" in the brake system, but out of a lot of possible brake system problems, the buzzer is only used for about half a dozen of the most severe (there's a chart in the repair manual showing which ones).

    I don't think I'd waste the time to clear those codes and wait for them to come back, but rather get the car, with the current brake codes active, to a dealer appointment, especially if JC91006 is right about the existence of a warranty extension that expires this month.

    -Chap
     
  6. davefmy

    davefmy Junior Member

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    Thanks everyone for your feedback. I did reset the Codes and they came back. I have also found today, that if I press - hold the brake down (while the car is on/running in park) before driving the pressure builds up (feel the brake put pressure on my foot) and the lights on the dash BRAKE ((!)) VBS VSC all go out. Once they go out I can drive as normal - after about 20 miles or so, the lights do come back on.

    In researching that extended warranty campaign, I found it as 2006-2007 Toyota Highlander, 2004-2009 Prius Brake Actuator Warranty Extension ZG1 on toyoheadquarters.com. and went ahead and scheduled a Appt at the local Toyota Dealer for monday. I hope the Codes will show up for them as they have for me as I think it will cover it - thank you very much!

    Do you think I should take my print out with the codes with me? Not sure how they would react to that as I have never been to this local dealer.

    For others reading the press release that states all of this can be found at this link. I'll attached in case the link goes down and the 1st 5 pages below.

    Page1.jpg Page2.jpg Page3.jpg Page4.jpg Page5.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Sezy

    Sezy Active Member

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    Ha same issue here. Started with a brief warning sound then lights for 20 seconds at random start ups a week after new front pads & rotors. Cleared by using the obd pin jump & brake pumping then after an looking drive the brake vac and other came on & remained even after restarting.

    Just cleared codes yesterday with techstream even the DTC stuff, disconnected the battery & relays (unhooked during brake job too), then pumped the brakes, replaced relays ,pumping again and reconnected the 12v battery. Brake fluid level is fine.

    Wish me luck. Going to try a brake flush next if it comes back then sadly look at actuators. Mine is making lots of noise lately & car had a slow leak sound coming from under the hood near lower passenger side before changing the brakes so who knows if that's related. Wish me luck!
     
  8. MilkyWay

    MilkyWay Active Member

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    I have precisely those codes (C1252, C1256, and C1391), doubt you will see this post but what was fix !

    I am reading briefly on here that it could be the Skid Control ECU which is much cheaper than the actuator. Also have your symptoms with the hard brake pedal while the car beeps and then once beeps go away brakes are back to normal....
     
  9. Elson

    Elson New Member

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    Similar issue: (C1252, C1256, and C1391), red triangle, car dies (remained in neutral). Shop, which worked on brakes and put in new hybrid battery says "possible internal fault in ABS module." Said take to dealer, and if dies again, do a hard reset to clear codes to drive it (HV battery plug and 12 v battery disconnect).

    Prior weeks a12v battery died when it sat for a month. Related? Did brake actuator draw it down to keep pressure?

    What does "secondary warranty" above mean?
     
  10. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If by that, you're referring to this (in the Extended Warranty document):

    Warranty Enhancement Program Details
    ... then, in theory, if you had a 2009 MY that went into service in early 2010, you may have some time to claim the warranty, but only if the ODO has less than 150,000 miles showing on it.
     
    #10 dolj, Jan 3, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2020
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