What are the ideal values of block voltage of 2016 prius.

What battery have you got - I'd assume NiMH unless it's a Japanese import (which could be Li-ION.

I'm intrigued that you think the ODO is wrong - any reason why the suspicion?

 

Out of curiosity, what are you using to display the block voltages?

 

That does seem a massive difference in voltages, and typically it's the middle of the pack that suffers.

 

The differences between block are just about doubled, I suspect there are more (2x) cells in some blocks than others.

 

Is the Aqua the equivalent of the "C" model here?

I wasn't aware there were any Prii made with only 9 blocks (18 modules)..............

If you assume the 30+ volt blocks are actually each 4 modules, then the math comes out to 28 modules total, which is standard prius quantity.. Very weird way of monitoring, but anything is possible I suppose. Maybe just a glitch with the scanner programming?

Anyone else with an Aqua that can duplicate this?

 

I think @hassan310 is asking about a fourth-generation Prius.

Does the reading agree with the Total Distance Traveled value on the Data List page for the Hybrid Control System? With your scan tool, this might be available in the same place as the hybrid battery voltages.

Also, are there any stored Vehicle Control History events (described in my previous posting)? Some of these might include the Total Distance Traveled value in the freeze frame data; unless the ECU involved were swapped in from another vehicle, this should never be greater than the current odometer reading.

You probably can’t, at least from Toyota’s published information, unless the voltages are so far out of the expected ranges that they indicate an actual or incipient battery failure, which would be accompanied by a diagnostic trouble code. Remember that the voltages vary with the battery’s state of charge (SOC), which changes continually as the hybrid system operates.

Toyota’s Repair Manual (under Engine/Hybrid System: Hybrid/Battery Control: Hybrid Control System (For Nickel Metal Hydride Battery): Data List/Active Test) does give “Normal Condition” values for the block voltages:

Hybrid Battery Block 1 Voltage [also applies to Blocks 2, 8, and 9]:

SOC 60%: 12.00 to 20.00 V
ex. approximately 16 V​

Hybrid Battery Block 3 Voltage [also applies to Blocks 4, 5, 6, and 7]:

SOC 60%: 24.00 to 40.00 V
ex. approximately 32 V​

This really isn’t enough information to detect anything other than a gross failure. Internal resistance might be a better measure, but for these, too, Toyota gives only wide “Normal Condition” ranges:

Internal Resistance 1 [also applies to Blocks 2, 8, and 9]:

Always: 0.010 to 0.100 ohm​

Internal Resistance 3 [also applies to Blocks 4, 5, 6, and 7]:

Always: 0.020 to 0.200 ohm​

As explained in my previous posting, you may have to rely on the car to monitor itself.

 

Isn't that interesting. So, the center 20 modules are definitely broken into 5 blocks of 4 each. I wonder if this is a way to dilute the effects of one module getting weak or having a single failed cell. ie...would a single cell failure in a 4 module block (dropping block voltage by ~1.2 volts) still trigger a fault?

Would be an interesting way to reduce warranty claims (or increase reliability?) since the center modules are typically the first to have a failed cell.