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What would keep the Prius from reaching the "Ready" State?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by JStrenk, Jan 5, 2018.

  1. JStrenk

    JStrenk Active Member

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    I've been having some problems getting the Prius into the "ready" state lately.

    I've been reading up on the various 12 volt Battery issues but the Battery voltage after sitting over night is at 12.33 Volts This is measured by opening the trunk and measuring with a Fluke meter right across the battery posts before turning any thing on. After driving to work (25 min ride) the battery voltage is at 12.74 volts.
    It's still the original battery.

    System voltage when engine is running is around 14.75 volts

    There are no error messages being reported.
    Brake lights do work. (This was mentioned in another "won't go into drive " post.)

    However the happy little winey noise that the Prius usually makes when I get in the car is now a chuga-chuga-chuga noise. Sometimes there is no chuga and some times the is just a chuga-chuga...

    If I get enough chuga-chua-chuga's in a row then it will go into the "Ready" mode.

    Other oddities I noticed.
    Driving around at 50 mph the engine never gets above 140*F
    Driving at 70 mph the engine finally gets up to 188*F
    Headlights seem dimmer.
    There was a time when the weather was warmer that the engine was running higher RPM than usual but that is not happening now. That seemed to disappear. (I'm sure it will come back to haunt me.)
    NAV is unreadable, no display but that happened a few months ago.


    Gas mileage is around 37 mpg but hell, it's 1*F outside and I do have snow tires on and heater cranked HI.
    Usually I get around 44 mpg in the winter but this one is colder than usual.

    I have a volt meter, scan gauge and an Actron scanner which I plan on doing some data logging on the trip home tonight. I'll start the scanning a few minuets before I try starting and see what it captures.

    What should I be looking for?
     
    #1 JStrenk, Jan 5, 2018
  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Do you maintain the 12 volt battery?

    I just replaced our 2010’s original battery Tuesday as I was seeing 12.31 volts after sitting for 2 days (a rare occurrence for our Prius with 171 k miles;)). I use a BatteryMINDer 1510 whenever I get a chance.

    That’s the lowest voltage I have seen in the 8.5 years we’ve owned it :(.

    So I went to Autozone and picked up a new one that was at 12.56 volts when purchased (the little sticker on the side said manufactured date was 12/17 but also made in Korea). I charged it up prior to placing it into service:
    08179905-DC39-4E4C-B4AD-3164CCF5CA01.jpeg 83C51292-BB8F-44FC-A6F0-CC3ED6A71990.jpeg 2B5980D3-8A5B-48B5-8E21-73F360CE4735.jpeg
    If the original battery on your 2011, and the car is not going into ready, the 12v used to get the computers ready is not performing correctly. While 12.33 volts doesn’t seem low, it’s probably at 50% charged.

    I was in a similar position (but no electronics issues) and for $140 at Autozone I thought it was a good move:).

    Hope that helps (y).
     
    #2 Raytheeagle, Jan 5, 2018
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I suggest the OP should measure battery voltage while the Prius is IG-ON (where all dashboard warning lights are lit). It will probably be pretty low, and that might encourage the OP to replace the 12V battery now.
     
    #3 Patrick Wong, Jan 5, 2018
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    how many miles on her?
     
    #4 bisco, Jan 5, 2018
  5. JStrenk

    JStrenk Active Member

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    Driven Daily

    I’ll check the battery voltage when the IG-ON at lunch but I thought in that state it is already being charged by the DC - DC converter.

    I’ll try it first in the ACC position. Power ON but brake not pressed.
     
    #5 JStrenk, Jan 5, 2018
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The DC/DC converter will not operate until the Prius is READY.

    Starting from IG-OFF, IG-ON is reached by pressing the POWER button two times while the brake pedal is not depressed (the first time brings you to ACC-ON). All dashboard warning lights will be on when IG-ON mode is reached.
     
    #6 Patrick Wong, Jan 5, 2018
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  7. JStrenk

    JStrenk Active Member

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    Ok. Got it.
    I’ll try that at lunch.
     
    #7 JStrenk, Jan 5, 2018
  8. JStrenk

    JStrenk Active Member

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    Well that was interesting...

    Apparently, the Prius, sitting in my garage at 28*F overnight, is NOT the same as sitting in the parking lot at work at 3*F.

    I decided to measure the battery voltage unladen to get a starting point and it only read 9.89 Volts!!! \
    With the Prius in the IG-ON, the battery dropped to 9.34 Volts.

    Surprisingly, the Prius did start on it's second attempt and I drove to NAPA to get a New Battery.

    So, any trick to getting the elbow fitting for the vent out of the old battery?
     
    #8 JStrenk, Jan 5, 2018
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  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Just pull it out.

    However, if you are buying a new battery from NAPA to replace the original equipment Yuasa battery, the vent may not fit.
     
    #9 Patrick Wong, Jan 5, 2018
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    so now we know, the best way to test your battery is to put it in the freezer overnight.:cool:
     
    #10 bisco, Jan 5, 2018
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  11. AzWxGuy

    AzWxGuy Weather Guy

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    I don't want to disagree with Patrick, but my experience with the vent tube elbow is it is "keyed" and requires like a 1/8 turn to effect release. I don't recall, however, whether that is a CW or CCW turn. You may be able to see the key on the elbow appear in the slot on the battery case when turned and then you can withdraw it.
     
    #11 AzWxGuy, Jan 5, 2018
  12. JStrenk

    JStrenk Active Member

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    Yes the elbow twists and pulls easily out. There is a little tab on the elbow.

    Yes, it doesn't fit in the new NAPA battery. hole is too small...

    I guess I'll have to come up with an adapter....

    IMG_4169.JPG IMG_4168.JPG IMG_4169.JPG IMG_4168.JPG IMG_4167.JPG IMG_4166.JPG
     
    #12 JStrenk, Jan 5, 2018
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  13. JStrenk

    JStrenk Active Member

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    Just an update, temp at -1*F this morning. Open the door and heard the familiar whine from the pump.
    Chugas are gone.

    Went right to "Ready" mode.

    Keeping my fingers crossed for now..
     
    #13 JStrenk, Jan 6, 2018
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  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats!(y)
     
    #14 bisco, Jan 6, 2018
  15. AzWxGuy

    AzWxGuy Weather Guy

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    Maybe all you need to do is put it on a battery conditioner for some time. That is a pretty low SOC though, probably too far gone. I hook mine up to an Optimate 5 periodically and let it run through a charge and test cycle. My OEM battery is getting pretty old too, 7 years or so. It keeps testing good at the dealer though, so I'll just keep an eye on it. I remember buying an Optima yellow top for my 2008. For the $$$, it came with a replacement vent tube elbow, which I believe was nearly identical to the OEM and would have fit the new battery as well as the old. You would think for the bucks we drop on a premium specialty AGM externally vented battery that the connections would match or at least be provided for with the purchase. When the time comes, I think I will opt for the Toyota replacement.
     
    #15 AzWxGuy, Jan 6, 2018
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  16. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The replacement Duralast battery I bought fromAutozone for our 2010 on Tuesday was a direct fit (vent tube snapped right in the first time :)).

    No additional hassle(y).
     
    #16 Raytheeagle, Jan 6, 2018
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