Wheel Bearing, Front & Rear brakes,Water Pump,Plugs $1800.00

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by sas0611, Jul 1, 2017.

  1. sas0611

    sas0611 Member

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    Wishing everyone a happy holiday weekend! Hoping some of you might be able to comment and answer some questions in my post that follows ? Always appreciative for guidance and suggestions.

    Took car in Toyota for howling noise in front wheel. As expected, front passenger wheel bearing needs to be replaced. That will be 606 + tax and wheel alignment will be needed after as well add $100.00. Notes say may be other noises but must start by doing wheel bearing service first (Wth). So total of $706 for that service. Water pump and drive Belt - $470.00. Front brakes with rotor resurface $$329. Rear brakes need to be done (2/32 left) for $200.00. Spark Plugs $115.00.


    I think I'll do the front brakes myself with just OEM brake pads. No resurfacing. I would like to do this job over the weekend as well as the spark plugs.

    Two questions. Can I do the front brakes prior to wheel bearing job ? Is resurfacing of rotors really necessary (they are not scored) ? BTW - I have access to a car lift anytime I so desire. My landlord has one in his garage I know - pretty crazy huh... He also probably has any tools I'd ever need.

    I am going to get a price for the wheel bearing job from my local mechanic. He has not done a prius wheel bearing job but should not be a problem. He can also align the vehicle and he owes me some favors. I'm pretty sure it won't total $700.00

    Water pump was leaking a while back and stopped about 3 months ago.. I think I will do that one myself without replacing coolant. It was replaced about 40K miles ago. Car now has 135K on it. Since it is not leaking past 3 months I don't need to jump immediately on this.

    So I believe they are giving a 10% discount because mileage is over 100K and there will be tax on this as well. Before Tax all these services would be $1640,

    I have to weigh all this against option of keeping or selling it. The car is 9 years old Mar 2008. Mileage is relatively low 136K. My only concern is the tapping noise from on top of engine which has seemed to get louder.Most of it is normal with the prius but I compare it to my wife's Prius and it is somewhat noisier by comparison. I really wouldn't mind keeping this car and driving it till quits but engine noise has me a bit concerned. I did get my laptop setup with mini VCI cable and it is not seeing anything catastrophic happening. Of course there are a zillion data points it monitors but there have not been and DTC codes of consequence. I do see a few misfires registered on cylinder 2 and 4 but not enough to register a code. Hoping new spark plugs will smooth out some of the noise I'm hearing and resolve minor misfire events.

    Back to the dealer service department - I told them that I was a bit shocked by their estimates and I'd need to think about rescheduling when everything I wanted them to do could be done at same time and if I decide to let them do bearings, I'd need a complimentary loaner vehicle as I wouldn't wait for it..
     
    #1 sas0611, Jul 1, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  2. windstrings

    windstrings Certified Prius Breeder

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    Mechanics take advantage as most people don't realize hybrids brake pads take forever to wear out due to regen
     
  3. windstrings

    windstrings Certified Prius Breeder

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    Take the wheel off and bang it around a little bit by tapping with a hammer and see if a rock or something is stuck up in between the calipers and the rotor, spin the rotor and see if you can reproduce the noise, I have three Priuses one of which has over three hundred and thirty thousand miles have not had to replace brake pads on any of them this mechanic is trying to replace everything he can except the engine
     
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  4. sas0611

    sas0611 Member

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    Yes. I was told by a different dealership 10,000 miles ago that I needed front brakes immediately and that the rotors were too low to be resurfaced.That dealer wanted close to $1000.00 for front and rear brakes but after speaking to manager I got the job down to 700.00 which is still ridiculous.. I walked and didn't do anything with either front or rear brakes at that point.That is why I didn't go back to that dealer. Here I am 10,000 miles later at different dealer and they say rotors look good and can be resurfaced. I do know that the pads are needing to be replaced this time though. It does validate my suspicion of the other dealership being unscrupulous by comparison. I'm not saying these guys are not trying to take advantage but they are less blatant.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    136k, should have had all fluids and spark plugs done by 120k. sounds like you're overdue for some serious maintenance. if you're thinking of doing some yourself, you can do it all, it's very basic diy, and there are plenty of youtube videos.
    if not, all you can do is shop it around, any decent mechanic can handle it. there are a couple of things, like disconnecting the 12v before brake work, and bleeding the ice coolant properly, but simple enough if you can follow directions.
     
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  6. Kenny94945

    Kenny94945 Active Member

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    Yes you can do brake pads before bearings.

    However, all the work to do the pads will need to be done a second time to replace the bearings.
    If DIYing I'd do them both at the same time.

    Many only replace pads and not treat the rotors.
    Only you have the ability to inspect the rotors for wear.
    The rotors may not be scored yet the rotors could be heat warped or worn to minimum thickness.

    I think the risk of pads only is brake squeak noise and/ or vibration.

    Good tip about inspecting for a rock trapped in the caliper et al causing the noise.
    Also ensure all the suspension bolts and plastic panels are torqued...in other words look around don't limit your view.

    Good luck.
     
  7. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    I'll tackle these one at a time....

    front passenger wheel bearing needs to be replaced. That will be 606 + tax

    WOW!! For ONE????? That is DOUBLE what it's worth

    and wheel alignment will be needed after as well add $100.00.

    Actually, NOT needed. Wait until you replace the TIRES, then have an alignment performed.

    Notes say may be other noises but must start by doing wheel bearing service first (Wth).

    TOTAL COP-OUT!!!! That statement MEANS that they never actually DIAGNOSED the noise they claim you need a new wheel bearing to resolve = STEALership!

    Water pump and drive Belt - $470.00.

    For $150 in OEM parts and an hour labor? $300 *maybe*.

    Front brakes with rotor resurface $$329.

    DIY, forget resurfacing. Either re-use the rotors as-is, or REPLACE them.

    Rear brakes need to be done (2/32 left) for $200.00.

    Another DIY thing, maybe $50 for the shoes and hardware.

    Spark Plugs $115.00.

    Now that's reasonable!

    This WHOLE "GUestimate" sounds like the Service Writer, Mechanic (aka: Parts replacer), GM and Dealer Principal are behind on their BOAT PAYMENTS.

    My suggestion, take it to another Toyota dealer for the WB and WP, do the rest yourself including the belt. Unless they will install for parts only, since the labor to replace the WP is 100% "overlapping" with that job. Alternatively, find a trusted local Indy shop, if one exists in your area.

    Good luck!
     
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  8. sas0611

    sas0611 Member

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    Thanks everyone that took the time to respond to my initial post. I think you're right 05PreeUs about them not having diagnosed anything. I pretty much told them what I think was wrong and thought was needed to be done and they just quoted it out after I sat there for 2 hours - and that was with an appointment. I had the tires rotated and wheel off today. Took the caliper down to have a look and the insides pads have about had it. Nothing jumped out at me regarding the wheel bearing noise. Was hoping to see something rubbing underneath the vehicle or the dust cover responsible. I'm guessing it is the bearings for lack of any other obvious things. I also picked up spark plugs and will be putting those in myself. I know the wheel bearing job is out of my league for sure but I'll give the brakes a shot . Regarding alignment, I'm not sure doing that is BS but I do have practically new tires on the car so I wouldn't want them to wear weird if alignment is legit. I'll probably look up the inverter fluid replacement and maybe do the ATF.
     
  9. windstrings

    windstrings Certified Prius Breeder

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    Just checking alignment shouldn't cost, but a realign is a good idea w new tires if not already done since the last.

    Doesn't take too much to move them if you hit anything
     
  10. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    Replacing a front wheel bearing does not affect alignment.. AT ALL when done correctly. However, as you say the tires are very new and replacing tires IS THE TIME to check alignment and make any needed repairs or adjustments.
     
  11. jessiejosco

    jessiejosco Member

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    If you are doing the front pads you might as well replace the rotors. They are cheaper than the pads and your brakes will be much smoother. There will almost definitely be a lip on the old rotors from wear and the new pads probably won't line up exactly with it. Also the rotor may not have enough thickness left to outlast a new set of pads. Thin rotors are more likely to warp too.

    Once you have the brakes apart you don't actually have to go that much further to replace the wheel bearing. Other than the usual wrenches all you need is a socket for the axel nut and a way to get the hub/bearing assembly out of the yolk. I used a sledge hammer.
     
  12. 05PreeUs

    05PreeUs Senior Member

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    Well.....

    Pads run $15-$20/SET and rotors $15-$30 EACH, for normal parts at on-line retailers. OEM parts, the ONLY ones I would recommend, are Pads $55/set, rotors $75/ea.

    So no matter how you slice it, rotors are not less costly than pads.

    Generally and I have done thousands of disc brake jobs on everything from off-road motorcycles to air-braked 18-wheelers, FACTORY rotors that have not been ground to nothing by worn-out pads or an uneducated gorilla operating the resurfacing machine, will last at LEAST two sets of pads and still be WELL within factory tolerances. For most consumer vehicles (passenger vehicles that is), rotor thickness *should be* good for a minimum of four brake jobs.

    If said gorilla or the vehicle owner grinds the rotors to under thickness, you do lose service life and even more importantly, fade resistance. The measure of a rotor is only partially the thickness, the MASS (weight) is THE other critical element. Guess what? MOST "new OEM quality" rotors on the market are LIGHTER than the original, but "worn and rusted" rotors you remove. That loss of mass does nothing to improve your braking, but it sure helps the aftermarket make money - at the expense of YOUR safety!

    A rotors Mass and Material are the two most important factors in warping, all else being roughly equal. A new, but lower mass rotor, will actually be MORE likely to warp than an experienced factory installed part that still meets service requirements.

    Also, many on the 'net have ignorantly quoted the "minimum thickness" as the measurement that dictates when a rotor requires replacement. The facts are that it is somewhat more involved. Loss of ANY cooling vane is cause for rejection and OEMs vary on if the "MIN THICKNESS" dimension is the rejection, or the "do not machine less than" dimension. Honestly, I do not know which Toyota has chosen. Either way, regarding thickness only; if a rotor is THICKER than the stamped minimum, it is safe and legal for re-use.
     
  13. sas0611

    sas0611 Member

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    I am very grateful for all the posts each of you have put up and continue to put up to help me and educate me. I'm astonished by the depth of knowledge and combined experience possessed by the members of this group. The most recent post about rotor thickness by 05PreeUs is a good example of what I am talking about. I have read everyone's posts and they have been very informative and appreciated. I will continue to check in and update you as things progress and certainly if I have more questions. This is not by any means meant to say I don't need additional help with my issues but just to serve as a note of gratitude for what has been suggested thus far. Thank you !
     
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  14. Paul Schenck

    Paul Schenck Active Member

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    I stopped taking mine to the dealer as soon as the 60,000 mile warrantee was done, Now with 420,000+ I won't because they'll screw something up. I have an independent certified mechanic Michael at Lexology. For friends who don't want to do their own work.. I've never had a wheel bearing issue yet, California weather?? For me it's not about the $$$ it's getting to see how well this car has been engineered getting to know what makes it exceptional. If someone told me I was going to have a car that had 420 K and still get over 42mpg while keeping me and my dog comfortable in 100 F?? Well I still can't believe it!


    iPhone ?
     
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