Wheel Bearing, Front & Rear brakes,Water Pump,Plugs $1800.00

Mechanics take advantage as most people don't realize hybrids brake pads take forever to wear out due to regen

 

Take the wheel off and bang it around a little bit by tapping with a hammer and see if a rock or something is stuck up in between the calipers and the rotor, spin the rotor and see if you can reproduce the noise, I have three Priuses one of which has over three hundred and thirty thousand miles have not had to replace brake pads on any of them this mechanic is trying to replace everything he can except the engine

 

136k, should have had all fluids and spark plugs done by 120k. sounds like you're overdue for some serious maintenance. if you're thinking of doing some yourself, you can do it all, it's very basic diy, and there are plenty of youtube videos.
if not, all you can do is shop it around, any decent mechanic can handle it. there are a couple of things, like disconnecting the 12v before brake work, and bleeding the ice coolant properly, but simple enough if you can follow directions.

 

Yes you can do brake pads before bearings.

However, all the work to do the pads will need to be done a second time to replace the bearings.
If DIYing I'd do them both at the same time.

Many only replace pads and not treat the rotors.
Only you have the ability to inspect the rotors for wear.
The rotors may not be scored yet the rotors could be heat warped or worn to minimum thickness.

I think the risk of pads only is brake squeak noise and/ or vibration.

Good tip about inspecting for a rock trapped in the caliper et al causing the noise.
Also ensure all the suspension bolts and plastic panels are torqued...in other words look around don't limit your view.

Good luck.

 

I'll tackle these one at a time....

front passenger wheel bearing needs to be replaced. That will be 606 + tax

WOW!! For ONE????? That is DOUBLE what it's worth

and wheel alignment will be needed after as well add $100.00.

Actually, NOT needed. Wait until you replace the TIRES, then have an alignment performed.

Notes say may be other noises but must start by doing wheel bearing service first (Wth).

TOTAL COP-OUT!!!! That statement MEANS that they never actually DIAGNOSED the noise they claim you need a new wheel bearing to resolve = STEALership!

Water pump and drive Belt - $470.00.

For $150 in OEM parts and an hour labor? $300 *maybe*.

Front brakes with rotor resurface $$329.

DIY, forget resurfacing. Either re-use the rotors as-is, or REPLACE them.

Rear brakes need to be done (2/32 left) for $200.00.

Another DIY thing, maybe $50 for the shoes and hardware.

Spark Plugs $115.00.

Now that's reasonable!

This WHOLE "GUestimate" sounds like the Service Writer, Mechanic (aka: Parts replacer), GM and Dealer Principal are behind on their BOAT PAYMENTS.

My suggestion, take it to another Toyota dealer for the WB and WP, do the rest yourself including the belt. Unless they will install for parts only, since the labor to replace the WP is 100% "overlapping" with that job. Alternatively, find a trusted local Indy shop, if one exists in your area.

Good luck!

 

Just checking alignment shouldn't cost, but a realign is a good idea w new tires if not already done since the last.

Doesn't take too much to move them if you hit anything

 

Replacing a front wheel bearing does not affect alignment.. AT ALL when done correctly. However, as you say the tires are very new and replacing tires IS THE TIME to check alignment and make any needed repairs or adjustments.

 

If you are doing the front pads you might as well replace the rotors. They are cheaper than the pads and your brakes will be much smoother. There will almost definitely be a lip on the old rotors from wear and the new pads probably won't line up exactly with it. Also the rotor may not have enough thickness left to outlast a new set of pads. Thin rotors are more likely to warp too.

Once you have the brakes apart you don't actually have to go that much further to replace the wheel bearing. Other than the usual wrenches all you need is a socket for the axel nut and a way to get the hub/bearing assembly out of the yolk. I used a sledge hammer.

 

Well.....

Pads run $15-$20/SET and rotors $15-$30 EACH, for normal parts at on-line retailers. OEM parts, the ONLY ones I would recommend, are Pads $55/set, rotors $75/ea.

So no matter how you slice it, rotors are not less costly than pads.

Generally and I have done thousands of disc brake jobs on everything from off-road motorcycles to air-braked 18-wheelers, FACTORY rotors that have not been ground to nothing by worn-out pads or an uneducated gorilla operating the resurfacing machine, will last at LEAST two sets of pads and still be WELL within factory tolerances. For most consumer vehicles (passenger vehicles that is), rotor thickness *should be* good for a minimum of four brake jobs.

If said gorilla or the vehicle owner grinds the rotors to under thickness, you do lose service life and even more importantly, fade resistance. The measure of a rotor is only partially the thickness, the MASS (weight) is THE other critical element. Guess what? MOST "new OEM quality" rotors on the market are LIGHTER than the original, but "worn and rusted" rotors you remove. That loss of mass does nothing to improve your braking, but it sure helps the aftermarket make money - at the expense of YOUR safety!

A rotors Mass and Material are the two most important factors in warping, all else being roughly equal. A new, but lower mass rotor, will actually be MORE likely to warp than an experienced factory installed part that still meets service requirements.

Also, many on the 'net have ignorantly quoted the "minimum thickness" as the measurement that dictates when a rotor requires replacement. The facts are that it is somewhat more involved. Loss of ANY cooling vane is cause for rejection and OEMs vary on if the "MIN THICKNESS" dimension is the rejection, or the "do not machine less than" dimension. Honestly, I do not know which Toyota has chosen. Either way, regarding thickness only; if a rotor is THICKER than the stamped minimum, it is safe and legal for re-use.

 

I stopped taking mine to the dealer as soon as the 60,000 mile warrantee was done, Now with 420,000+ I won't because they'll screw something up. I have an independent certified mechanic Michael at Lexology. For friends who don't want to do their own work.. I've never had a wheel bearing issue yet, California weather?? For me it's not about the $$$ it's getting to see how well this car has been engineered getting to know what makes it exceptional. If someone told me I was going to have a car that had 420 K and still get over 42mpg while keeping me and my dog comfortable in 100 F?? Well I still can't believe it!


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