Where to buy new OEM traction battery in/around NYC?

NewPriusBatteries.com | Home

 

8-year-old hybrid needing a battery? Ouch!

If you want nearly guaranteed longevity (for 8 more years!?): your Toyota Dealer or Toyota Parts and Accessories - Official Online Store

If you want pretty close to OEM quailty, but for less and you can sell your old cells: NewPriusBatteries.com | Home

If you're feeling experimental, but the kind of experimental that many others have done and have had good results: Feel the Lithium Power! (projectlithium.com)

If you want to just get the code to not come back so you can sell the car: Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles & More | eBay and Tenergy Charger for 2.4V-7.2V NiMH/NiCD Battery Pack - Tenergy and a multimeter.

 

Here's one: https://parts.cityworldtoyota.com/p/toyota__Prius/Drive-Motor-Battery-Pack/69107428/G951076012.h

There's probably several other dealers that will sell you the pack in your area.

Batteries are hazmat so can't be shipped to a residential address, must be picked up. You'll need to swap over components from you old pack, like the ECU, relay module, temp. sense harness etc. before returning it for the core deposit.

 

Your battery might be a good candidate for repair, if one or two models are about one and a half volts lower than the rest.

 

how many miles? no warranty?

 

One feller here recently became a victim of that scam after a few drive cycles. Let me bring him here and interject.

 

I hear you. I still have my Prius that I haven't been able to drive or sell since I bought it two years ago because I'm too honest to not tell people all the problems it has. It needs a battery, a California compliant catalytic converter and there's a good chance the cylinders are scored and it needs a new block, not to mention I bought it wrecked and fixed the cosmetic issues so it looks nice, but it was still in an accident none the less.

At that rate I may end up hauling it to a junk yard and get less for it than what I've put into it. I've already got the battery codes fixed by replacing a couple modules with eBay ones, and I could go to another state in the car and put an aftermarket cat in it just so the CEL stops turning on and tell the buyer that it only uses a bit of oil, but other than that it's a "perfectly fine car." But I'm not that kind of person.

 

What are the specific error codes and sub codes?

 

It's important to know that the symptoms you have could be many different problems and battery replacement is worst case scenario. I've fixed batteries pack problems like this in less than 5 minutes after a Toyota stealership tried to trick the owner into buying a new battery pack, which wasn't needed. Try Dr. Prius app and post some screenshots so we can tell you about how your battery pack is doing?

 

I have a feeling that this battery is too young to die. It could be dying, but it may just be corroded bus bars from being in a humid environment. the Torque app (Android) and the Bluetooth/OBDII connector @PriusCamper mentioned is a great idea to see what's going on. I'd get those, test the car to see what modules/blocks are "acting up", then take the battery apart and clean the bus bars, put it back together, and see if those same modules/blocks are still acting up. A multimeter would also be a good idea.

I will stress to be careful working on a high voltage battery, but it's not impossibly dangerous. Still, I do warn that there's a chance of frying yourself dead and burning up your car, home and town. Just a disclaimer to be careful.

 

Those Dr. Prius numbers look good for the moment. Monitor the "voltage diff" number while you drive. The most common problem is that number will rise from it's normal 0.12v up to much higher numbers and that can at times get so high that car throws P0A80. Sometimes this is as easy as cleaning out the corrosion inside the battery ECU as well as the pack, but sometimes it's more than that.

 

Watch lots of videos and see how the battery is put together. Modules next to each other don't carry much voltage. Grabing terminals from end to end will. The orange plug does help and it is necessary to remove it to remove battery cover for that very reason. If you work on 110V electronic projects you're probably smart enough to know what your doing.

With the bus bars you keep your hands on one side an close together for the most part. I did get some cheap HV gloves for just in case, but most feel that's probably overkill. Still doesn't hurt. As you take the bus bars off one by one, start from one end and the potential voltage drops every bus bar you take off. Just be careful putting them back on you don't misalign them.