Where to get brakes done.

congrats and welcome!
$600. isn't bad, but i'd get a second opinion too. 97,000 on a 2013 seems like highway miles which shouldn't use the brakes much. my local guy is great, hopefully you'll find a quality indy.
all the best!

 

See what they're doing with the rotors for that $300. Maybe they could leave the rotors alone and save at least $50.

 

If you have a jack, jack stands, and some basic tools, you can check them yourself easily. You'd take each wheel off, loosen two bolts (take one all the way out, not the other), flip the calipers up, and examine the pads. With the pads out, you can get a good view of both sides of the rotor.

Edit: I forgot to mention at first, but do that with the negative cable removed from the 12 volt battery. Otherwise, the car sometimes does a brake self-exam when you're not expecting it, which you don't want while the calipers are flipped up or your hands in the way.

If there's 2mm left on all the pads and the rotors are smooth and shiny both sides, you have the simplest possible brake job. You put in new pads. The trickiest bit is shoving the caliper pistons back so the new pads will fit. It's strongly recommended to open the bleed screws so you are forcing brake fluid out instead of back upstream, then snug the bleed screws back down. When you're done, you can use some fresh new fluid to top off the system.

The pistons in the rear can't just be shoved back in, they have to be rotated. Mendel has posted prolifically on the right way to do those.

If you're fastidious, you might take the shine off the rotors with some 150 grit wetordry paper. No need to do anything more with the rotors unless they show grooves, deep rust, etc.

If the rotors are gnarly, you can replace them, or have them turned on a lathe if they still measure thick enough (as they probably will).

The pistons have rubber boots around them, and so do the two slide pins each caliper rides on. Make sure the boots don't show any nicks or tears that would let the elements in. Feel how the pins slide in and out. If you can free them up with a little muscle for one or two strokes and then they feel smooth and lubed, they're also good.

If the pins don't move smoothly, or the piston doesn't, or you notice any rubber boot damage, you might want to have replacement rubber kits on hand. There's one for the front and one for the rear (each one contains enough parts for both brakes on its end of the car, and a little packet of the proper pin grease). Buying the rubber kits in advance can save you trouble and delay (you'll then find the old boots are fine and the pins move smoothly, just like when you bring an umbrella it doesn't rain).

In reassembling the brakes, if the 'ears' of the pads don't slide smoothly in the slots of the caliper bracket, you can replace the stamped, springy guides they slide in. That's called the 'fitting kit', also sold one for the fronts, one for the rears. The one for the rears also includes the little V springs you find on top of the pads.

If you take a little time to get familiar with how your brakes work, you'll have the confidence that you always can know what condition they're in, and not worry about relying on a dealer or other shop to tell you.

-Chap