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Window Tint Measurements

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by count_on_mike, Aug 28, 2006.

  1. count_on_mike

    count_on_mike Junior Member

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    I had my 5 back windows tinted on my 2006 Magnetic Gray #8 by Mr. Tint (Steven's Creek Blvd, San Jose, CA) in June ($300). They use Solar Gard HP Quantum film (www.solargard.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/Product_Performance.Stats_Auto_HP). My choices at Mr. Tint were HP Quantum 37 (38%) and HP Quantum 28 (32%) I chose the Quantum 28. I got a sample of each to measure. I used my Sekonic L-558 light meter (www.sekonic.com) to measure the Prius' windows before and after installation.

    I took two types of readings, Incident and Spot. Incident readings were taken by the white dome (lumisphere), which I retracted for these measurements because I was making brightness difference measurements. The light source was the sun and I tried to keep line between the sun and meter perpendicular to the glass. Spot readings were taken by sighting through the window from inside the car onto a Kodak 18% gray card that was in the sun. The L-558 was put in EV mode and the delta EV in f-stops was noted between no window and the window. The meter reads delta EV in tenths (0.1) of an f-stop. F-stops and transmittance are related by 2^(f-stop) = transmittance. For example, a delta of -1 f-stop is half the light or 50%. A delta of -2 f-stops is 1/4 the light or 25% transmittance.

    The measurements are below and the numbers in parenthesis are the notes. I have paired the f-stop and transmittance numbers together.

    _________________________________Incident__________Spot

    Quantum 37 sample________________-1.3f 41% (1)______-1.3f 41%
    Quantum 28 sample________________-1.6f 33% (1)______-1.6f 33%

    Stock Passenger Door______________-0.5f 71% (2)______-0.5f 71%
    Tinted (Q28) Passenger Door________-1.9f 27% (3)______-1.9f 27%

    Stock Upper Hatch Window (UHW)____-0.5f 71% (4)______-1.6f 33% (5)
    Tinted (Q28) Upper Hatch Window____-1.9f 27% (4)______-3.0f 13% (5)

    Lower Hatch Window (LHW)_________-1.9f 27%_________-2.1f 23% (6)


    (1) The web site said transmittance was 38% and 32%. I measured 41% and 33%. Not exact, but close.
    (2) Everyone has been asking what percent transmittance the stock windows are. I measured 71%.
    (3) Tinting the side window with Q28 (33%) decreased transmittance by -1.4f 38%. I note that it wasn't the full -1.6f 33% and guess there is an issue when the film bonds to the glass and A+B < (A glued B). I also note that the resultant transmittance with Q28 is 27%.
    (4) The incident readings for Upper Hatch Window (UHW) agrees with the Passenger door: Notes (2) and (3).
    (5) The UHW is where the incident and spot reading really differ. The spot meter is -1.1f below incident for before and after tinting. I believe this is because the incident was taken perpendicular to the glass and the spot is taken from the driver seat looking through the window and the window is at a severe angle.
    (6) The UHW and LHW now have the same incident reading but different spot readings. The difference in spot reading is because of the angle of the window. I am not sure why the incident and spot readings for the LHW are not identical (There is no angle issue here).

    Quantum 28 is fine for driving at night. The tinting did make the UHW less optically clear because the defroster wires create ripples in the tint.

    I tinted my windows because it was getting too hot in the car. The first time I parked my car in the sun at work, the luggage cover frabric melted and my gym bag left 4 permanent divets in the fabric. The antiperspirant in my gym bag also melted and ran all over the bag. With the windows tinted, it doesn't get as hot and there is more privacy for the things in the back seat and hatch.

    I hope these quantitative numbers are helpful.

    Mike
     
    Priusjames likes this.
  2. Bill Merchant

    Bill Merchant absit invidia

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    Thanks, Mike, for a very thorough investigation! This is really helpful. You measured visible light, it would be interesting if one could measure infrared light. I believe some window films claim to reduce wavelengths other than visible. I have no idea what kind of a meter you'd need to do that.
     
  3. priusenvy

    priusenvy Senior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bill Merchant @ Aug 28 2006, 02:08 PM) [snapback]310734[/snapback]</div>


    Well like, duh, it wouldn't be any cooler inside the car if the tint didn't block infrared. In fact, that's V-Kool's whole claim to fame, some of their films pass only a tiny amount of infrared despite having high VLT.

    <div class=\'quotetop\'>QUOTE</div><div class=\'quotemain\'>
    I have no idea what kind of a meter you'd need to do that.

    [/b][/quote]

    Infrared spectrophotometer.
     
  4. NuShrike

    NuShrike Active Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(priusenvy @ Aug 28 2006, 03:50 PM) [snapback]310779[/snapback]</div>
    V-Kool is metallic tint compared to some of the others discusses which are either dye or ceramic. Metallic has the highest heat-rejection of any tint material (the astronauts use it), and should be fairly consistent across manufacturers.

    I too would be interested in IR rejection numbers because that's where you can really cut heat without cutting visiblity (VLT) because I personally dislike vehicles blocking the view of the driver/road/vechicle past them because of their tint; safety reasons.

    Sometimes, you can measure it by using a heat lamp and passing various films in front of it, and using your hand to off-the-cuff compare them.

    If there was a way to verify the claims of 99% UV blocking on most tints, that would be cool too.
     
  5. priusenvy

    priusenvy Senior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(NuShrike @ Aug 28 2006, 04:37 PM) [snapback]310807[/snapback]</div>
    You can use a photochromatic sunglass lens to detect UV, since the color change is triggered by UV. That only tells you about the wavelengths that trigger the color change, but it's still a useful and easily found tool.

    The glass in car windows already blocks out most UV. If it didn't, interior fabrics would fade quickly. Think about how quickly newsprint degrades when left exposed to the sun, but doesn't when it's sitting on your car seat or dash.
     
  6. Bill Merchant

    Bill Merchant absit invidia

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    Duh, higher wavelengths go to lower wavelengths go to heat. Isn't the high iron content of the Prius glass supposed to cut IR coming in?
     
  7. GreenSpeed

    GreenSpeed New Member

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    Eh, i've V-Kool. It's day and night in terms of heat reduction. Even compared to the Limo Tint (5%) I have on the back. All i can say is 'WoW'
     
  8. NuShrike

    NuShrike Active Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bill Merchant @ Aug 29 2006, 12:46 AM) [snapback]311016[/snapback]</div>
    Sir, you assumed ignorance about ...
     
  9. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Active Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bill Merchant @ Aug 28 2006, 05:08 PM) [snapback]310734[/snapback]</div>

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(priusenvy @ Aug 28 2006, 06:50 PM) [snapback]310779[/snapback]</div>
    Actually, something that totally blocks infrared will make the car hotter.

    Confused you yet? :)

    Earth's atmosphere is opaque to almost all infrared radiation (see here), so there's very little direct infrared radiation from the Sun to hit the Earth. HOWEVER, visibile light (and probably UV) is absorpted by materials on Earth and re-radiates in the infrared. Since the atmosphere doesn't allow a lot of infrared radiation (i.e. "heat") to pass through it, the Earth heats up (i.e. the "greenhouse effect"). The exact same effect is what causes the car to heat up. VISIBLE light passes through the glass, is absorbed by your seats (or your dashboard, or whatever), which then re-radiate the energy as infrared radiation, which then CAN'T pass back through the glass. Therefore, your car heats up.

    What all of this means is that you're MOST interested in blocking optical light, so measuring how much the tint reduces optical transmission is the right thing to do.
     
  10. priusenvy

    priusenvy Senior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Betelgeuse @ Aug 29 2006, 02:40 PM) [snapback]311305[/snapback]</div>
    Read the graph a little closer there buddy.

    The part of the IR spectrum that is meaningful for heating is from 1000 to 6000nm, which is that area from 10^3 to 10^4 on that graph, NOT the area under the word "Infrared". You can see that there are many regions of high transmissivity - all those "fingers" next to the continuous block that represents the visible spectrum.

    My understanding is that majority of solar heat gain through a window is from IR (about 55%) and a smaller portion is from visible light being absorbed by objects inside and then re-emitted in the IR spectrum (something in the low 40% range). This is based on research I've done in purchasing energy efficient windows for my primary and secondary residences and vacation homes, which are all located in very different climates.

    For example, in a heating-dominant climate, you want a window that passes IR from the outside to maximize solar heat gain, but you want it to reflect IR from the inside to keep the heat trapped inside the house. In a cooling-dominant area, you want to block as much IR as possible to reduce solar heat gain. The whole energy-efficient window industry is based on these premises, so I'd be very surprised to hear that this is completely wrong.
     
  11. Bill Merchant

    Bill Merchant absit invidia

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bill Merchant @ Aug 29 2006, 12:46 AM) [snapback]311016[/snapback]</div>
     
  12. hwalker911

    hwalker911 New Member

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    Well, if it looks good, dose it really matter. If you're happy, I'm happy. Thanks for the information.

    Happy Motoring !