Without Warning - Would not start

Ack!!! Mondays suck. If you have a voltmeter, check the resistance from the battery negative post to a random bolt in the back, to make sure that the ground is good.

 

But only if the car is off and not running accessories. Otherwise there could be a voltage drop on the ground cable.

The preferred method is to first measure the DC voltage from the battery post to the chassis. If the voltage is zero, then measure the resistance.

Tom

 

I had the stock battery in our former Nissan Cube completely fail at 14 months. The dealer experience got worse from there but I'll spare you the details.

Nice that your divorced husband will still help you out.

 

Don't you hate it when the car doesn't warn you it is not going to start? Toyota really should do something about that! j/k

There is a guy on an island off of Africa that can't get his (2000) started either. Apparently the HV battery checks out OK and the 12v but still won't start.

These are the type of problems that worry me as a hybrid owner.

 

Sounds to me like a "bad connection" somewhere -- did they check for any that might be loose and then just making intermittent conductivity?

 

Mistress Rae Vinn,

There is always the chance that the tech did not fully charge your new
battery back in Feb. And the poor little thing has been carrying a lower
charge than is best for these last months.

By any chance have you done any random voltage checks after the car
has sat overnight?

I'm still on the original 12V battery after just under 4 years. I do
occasional voltage checks with my ScanGuage in the AM before I start
the car. I'm seeing 12.3-12.4V. A few points lower than when the
car/battery were new.

As the weather cools, if I see ~12.0 it will be time to think about
getting a new one. (It'll be one of the new "pencil post" Yellow Tops.)

 

We don't know how the tech accessed the 12V bus. The easiest way would
be via the contact under the hood.

There is a possibility that the 12V lead from the battery to the body is
loose or, given the atmospheric dampness where you are, corroded.
Getting to it involves taking out the hatch area floor and tray beneath.
You should consider doing the work yourself and check the bolt for
tightness and corrosion as well.

 

Dealerships are notorious for saying your 12v battery is fine despite a low voltage reading with no load. As new as your battery is I would expect nothing less than a 12.6v reading after a full recharge (2 amp charging rate) and the car has sat overnight. Test it with no load. Call me if you need help.

 

That happened to me once. The negative ground (from the battery) is located on the body panel below the running light bulb access panel. Mine was loose and causing all kinds of weird behavior. Not starting was one of the problems.

 

Sounds like a bad connection. They probably corrected the problem so don't get hasty and purchase a yellow top yet! Your battery was probably OK? Hal

 

Hi I had similar problems with odd codes but it always started, I found moisture runs in through the back lights down the side of the hatch, I live in the UK's damp climate. The battery on some nights would loose some charge. I changed my battery at that point (optima yelllowtop) and sealed up the point of moisture ingress, touch wood I have never had a problem since and that was 3 years ago. The added bonus was a reduction in windows being misted at the back of the car.

 

Did you jump the car from the hood or from the hatch?

 

Yes Sir, you are right. Change to a yellow top 12V will prevent all weird mishap in the future. Even you left an open door, light inside will still get enough juice to start the baby in the morning. Yellow Top is designed for heavr draw.

Rae, make up your mind to change to a right battery. The Fty. stupid battery is a design fault, or say a bad design. You will have no regret for the Yellow top.