How to Replace 2G Gearshift Lever

[Patrick Wong]

My 2004 with 81K miles recently had a gearshift lever failure. The problem is that the lever would not return to the center right position. Rather, it would remain in D or in R. The problem with this is that the car will not go into P when you depress the P button, while the gearshift lever is stuck in D or in R.

Other owners have posted that when their gearshift lever fails, they have had to hold the lever in D in order to keep driving. My problem was basically the reverse: the lever stayed in D by itself...

In any event, I installed a new gearshift lever today and am providing a few photos and "how-to" hints. This is a pretty simple DIY project.

The part number is 33560-47022 and MSRP is $378. I bought the part from Champion Toyota, Houston for $287 plus shipping.

Start by pulling off the ventilation duct on the far left. Then remove two Phillips screws holding the trim panel below the steering column and then remove that panel. Then pull off the trim panel above the steering column that contains the POWER button. Finally, remove the ventilation duct that surrounds the gearshift lever.

These panels all have electrical components and ideally you would disconnect the wiring harness connectors. However I did not do so because there was sufficient slack in the wiring harness so that I could just set the panels aside and still reach the gearshift lever assembly.

Use a socket wrench with 12 mm socket to remove the three bolts that hold the gearshift lever assembly to the dash. Then remove the two wiring harness connectors to that assembly and take the old assembly out of the car.

Compare the old assembly to new. You will notice the illumination light and cable that runs to a small two-pin connector on the old assembly. Also note a translucent plastic cover on the back of the part. Remove that cover, then remove the light and cable. Install the light on the new assembly. "Installation is the reverse of disassembly."

The first photo shows the gearshift lever stuck in the D position. The next photo shows the various panels removed. The third photo shows the spot in the dash where the lever resides, note the three holes that the three mounting bolts attach to. The final photo shows a side view of the new part. This is a pretty big assembly for a joystick control...

[hobbit]

Did you determine why the spring-return mechanism failed?
Did it simply break, i.e. in such a way that you might have
been able to fix the old one?
.
_H*

[Patrick Wong]

Hi Hobbit,

I looked at the old assembly in an effort to figure out what spring had broken. However it doesn't look like it will be very easy to take apart.

When the translucent plastic cover at the rear of the assembly is removed, you can see the rear end of the joystick lever and the pivot points. However the spring in question is not visible from that view.

[JimboK]

Nice writeup, Patrick!

Did you consider a salvage part and if so, did you price it? Reports of similar problems seem infrequent enough that I'd probably trust a used part if the price was right.

[Patrick Wong]

Hi Jim,

No, since the price of the new part was not high I decided not to mess with a salvage part. If the inverter or an ECU had failed, then I would consider buying a salvage part.

[fxedit]

I had the same problem. My 2005 has only 50k on it.

This is another dangerous Toyota malfunction. The car does not go into park - it stays in drive, a very serious safety concern.

Not a do-it-yourselfer, it cost me a lot more. Miller Toyota of Culver City told me I needed to replace both the shift lever assembly and the park switch. Seems to me the cause is one or the other, not both, and I feel they're just covering their butts at my expense.

33560-47022 Lever Assembly 396.45
84480-47020 Switch Assembly 102.88
Install Shifter Knob and Parking Switch 480.00

Total bill $979.33 plus sales tax.

Any essential parts not found on a conventional non-hybrid vehicle that are expensive really sour me to hybrids. A very unpleasant surprise!

Dave Zellers, Vice President of Customer Retention, are you reading?

[Britprius]

Looking at the above pictures I notice the UK version of the leaver assembly is different, the control is mirror imaged that is drive and reverse is to the write.

[mwester]

I just got through replacing my shifter... about a 30 minute job and that included a 15 minute trip to town and back to buy a new bulb for the shifter light. A phillips screw driver and a 12mm socket is all it takes. Very easy. Most of the parts just clip in and out.

I bought my shifter used on eBay for $10 + shipping... no one else bid on it. There were many available for $25 buy-it-now.

It is absolutely thievery that a dealer would charge more than $50 labor for this job.

[pEEf]

Originally Posted by Patrick Wong

Hi Hobbit,

I looked at the old assembly in an effort to figure out what spring had broken. However it doesn't look like it will be very easy to take apart.

When the translucent plastic cover at the rear of the assembly is removed, you can see the rear end of the joystick lever and the pivot points. However the spring in question is not visible from that view.

This is surprising! Patrick, I would love to do a failure analysis on this part if you are willing to send it. Of course I will post the results here for everyone's benefit. What's also troubling is the failure to engage park when this sticks. Seems like Park should override everything else.

[macmaster05]

Patrick you never cease to amaze me.