Bypass filter install

[FL_Prius_Driver]

Originally Posted by Winston

BUT. IMHO, todays engines, coupled with todays excellent engine oil, ......

Hopefully you are not talking about API grade oil.

[NoMoShocks]

Somethimes I get too bananas over a new idea. First I thought about the oil bypass system for my Prius, and next thing you know, I was ready to put one on my son's Corolla, and before you know it, I was thinking all may cars could really use it. Then I mentioned the idea to some friends at work and they said "Sound like a solution for a non problem" They began to bring me back to Earth, and the comments here have brought me down the rest of the way, so thank you. I will just change my oil regularly.

[Raider]

I just reached 5k and had the regular scheduled maintance done on my 9mo old touring. I thought it was a good time to install the Amsoil BMK-13 on one of our Prius'.

I found a few on eBay for less than the retail price. One claimed to have been used for a few months, another used slightly more than one year. However, I wasn't satisfied with the hardware and plumbing provided by Amsoil in the BMK-13 kit.
1. The steel fittings/brackets were showing signs of corrosion on the fittings and where the bracket sits on the billet aluminum oil filter mount.
2. Steel fittings provided require several additional fittings, not included in the original kit, to form 45 degree or 90 degree bends, thereby increasing the amount of space required to route hose assembly
3. Amsoil cloth braided hose over rubber hose is only 1/2" I.D.
4. Typical cast aluminum remote oil adapters tend to crack or leak over time. And for some reason, the previous BMK-13 owner decided to use locktite on the nipple adapter so I could not remove it to install the 3/4x16 adapter. Or the mixture of steel adapter installed into an aluminum housing corroded and can no longer be removed.
5. The plumbing/mounting hardware are extra/spare parts from my race car. (I have enough parts/kit for another install but haven't decided when or if necessary. I guess I'll have to see what the oil looks like after some miles.)
6. Removing any or all particles or contaminents from the oil should avoid any possible sludge formation. (I would want to have any truckloads of oil dumped on my car...)

Here is a brief list of the parts I used on the Prius
1 Amsoil BMK-13 (used)
1 Amsoil EaBP90 Bypass Filter
1 Toyota 90915-YZZF2 Oil Filter
1 Canton Remote Oil Adapter #22-545
Aeroquip FBN1200 Socketless Hose
(12AN lightweight alternative to s.s. braided hose)
2 Aeroquip FCM1515 (12AN straight connector)
1 Aeroquip FCM1535 (12AN 90 degree elbow)
1 Aeroquip FCM1565 (12AN 180 degree elbow)
1 Aeroquip FBM2015 (12AN straight adapter)
1 Aeroquip FBM2010 (12AN 90 degree elbow adapter)
2 Aeroquip FBM2166 (12AN-8AN AN Male Reducer Union)
2 Aeroquip FBM3725 (8AN Port Plugs)
Stainless Steel safety wire

Mounting hardware;
1"x1/8" Aluminum bar stock
2 1/4"x20 - 1.5" teflon coated bolts
1 1/4"x20 - 1" teflon coated bolts
3 1/4"x20 nylon locking nuts
4 1/4" stainless steel washers
2 1/4" aluminum washers

Notes;
1. These pictures are from the mock up. Actual return line was lengthened since the bypass filter was interfering with the hose fitting on the remote oil adapter.
2. I've added a section of the socketless hose to cover the existing rubber hoses on the transmission that is positioned near the sharp corner of the remote oil filter mount.
3. The only modification was to one of the wiring harness brackets on the transmission. I reversed the bracket from facing downward, to facing upward so I would have more room to fit the 180 degree elbow and move the wiring harness away from that metal tab from wearing into the same harness. (I've seen other users state they reverse the cover plate so the tab will not interfere with the wiring harness.)
4. This modification has changed oil capacity +1.5 quarts. I can fit 1 quart in the bypass filter and assume the rest is based on the hose volume. Oil level now measures 1/8" from the top measurement on the oil dip stick.

(I think this is everything I can remember.)

[drees]

Nice looking setup, Raider. What kind of OCIs are you planning on running?

[problemchild]

Filtration is half the equation, additives are the other. All oils have specific additive packages based on the type of engine that will use them. A gas engine oil has different additives then a diesel engine oil as an example.

There are additives to reduce the build up of acids etc. when water forms in the oil from frequent stops and starts (like the prius ice engine). The additives get used up and no amount filtering can put them back.

So unless you change the oil you are harming the engine.

[Speedwing]

The idea of good filtration is always a sound idea. It can only help.

On a lighter note ..... I've been re-using my used drained auto full synthetic oil (after running through some coffee filters) in my lawn mower ever since synthetic Mobil 1 became a household word. Now that's re-cycling. The John Deere still purrs like the day I bought it. That mower gets more dusty conditions than the car ever sees!!

[ZC1]

Raider,

I'm quite surprised there was enough room to add this modification, evidently I haven't looked under the Prius much.

I can see this mod for my race car for sure, but with frequent oil changes and hardly any use on the Prius engine, it seems like overkill.

Is there any negative effects from using a strong filter magnet instead?

ZC1

[Raider]

Seeing that there are so few options available for the Prius, (I have the fully loaded Touring with leather seats), I thought I'd try this one out to see if there is any benefits. There's really not that much you can do to a 1.5 litre engine, or room to do so.

Or as darelldd stated previously "modifications for the sake of modifying"

First I'll see if the Toyota brand 5-30w oil really does look like new since after the dealer changed the oil, it looked redish before install. Then I may try full synthetics since I already use Red Line in my other car.

I'm using the stock filter for now since it would appear most of the particles would eventually get picked up in the bypass filter.

[racerbob]

Nice work Raider. I would like to include a dry sump in mine. I don't think you have enough plumbing. That is great hose. The lightweight stuff doesn't chew through anything in its path like the stainless braid does. Honestly, don't you think a drysump would be just the mod for another 3 MPG while ICE is running. We could spin it up with a little motor before ICE cranks then let it be belt driven through an electric clutch. More noises on boot up! I've wrenched Porsche race cars for a few decades so dry sumps are just "standard equipment" to me. Congratulation on a well engineered job. Where is your return line? Did you remove the pan or do it like Amsoil says with a "punched" hole and a self tapper?

[racerbob]

My Morgan is off the road now but I hope to get it going this summer and the part that wont need work will be the engine.

Jon the Chief

Jon, I hope you disabled that awful front suspension oiling pedal/thingy that pumps engine oil on the front suspension. I (partially) restored a 1967 +4 and I still remember cleaning all that crud from the "sliding pillar" front suspension. Brits have strange ways of engineering parts. We never did finish the car, but I found out during that process that I wasn't a woodworker. They are indeed fun vehicles and I still want to drive a +8.