Custom subwoofer install

[WaterbedWarrior]

I've had my 2010 pkg II for an entire 24 hours. Now, I'm contemplating starting on a custom fiberglass enclosure for the rear driverside cubbyhole. I've got a JL 10W1 subwoofer, a Rockford Fosgate Punch250, and my Pioneer headunit that I took out of my Blazer when it was traded.

The pioneer headunit has to wait until an adapter plate becomes available to replace the hole that will be left by the OEM stereo. But I can get started on the sub and use the amps high level input lines and crossover to tie into the speakers.

The local Home Depot is out of one gallon resin containers, but is expecting some in on the 4th. This gives me time to design the box, get some MDF supports and bottoms cuttout and workup the courage to pour liquid fiberglass resin into my brand new car. I think I can get close to the recommended .62 cuft out of the cubbyhole area and still be able to open the floorpanel to access the spare tire.

Its moments like these that I realize why I'm not married. Words of encouragement or warning are welcome. Pictures to come as I start this project.

[MikeDS]

Awesome...I just got mine yesterday as well and am already thinking audio upgrade...I've been an audio tinkerer for years and work professionally as an audio engineer (music and film), so I get tweaky about these things too! haha.

Good luck! Lets see pictures...if it comes out well make them for forum members for $$. Haha.

Mike

[FireEngineer]

You might want to consider the rear passenger side above the 12 volt battery. You won't lose the under floor cubby there, unless it doesn't matter to you.

Wayne

[mgb4tim]

go to NAPA for jellied resin. I have 8 gallons of laminating resin in my workshop, if you were closer, we're make two!

[mgb4tim]

are you really going to have much air area/volume (as apposed to a big trunk) to support a sub?

[WaterbedWarrior]

Tim, I'm a noob to fiberglass, so all comments are welcome. Why jellied resin?
I've been researching fiberglass construction techniques, hints and tips at FiberglassForums.com They've got some really impressive work there and no mention of jellied resin.

My current best guess is about .5 to .6cu ft out of the cubby hole. I'll know better once I tape it off with some cardboard and measure the volume with some packin peanuts. The recommended sealed box size for this 10" sub (JL Audio 10w1) is .625cu ft. So I should have sufficient space. I want to stay on the driver side because the subwoofer enclosure will utilize the storage space below it as well. Goal is to keep the box in the corner so I can open the main storage area and access the spare tire. As far as filling a trunk, I only need a speaker to replicate the low hz sounds inside the car. I'm not as concerned with volume as quality. So, no I won't be able to compete against someone with a pair of 12" subs in a large trunk box. But it should be sufficient to supply some nice bass to my music.

I took my car down to a local audio shop. The lead tech was ecstatic to get to hunt around inside the new Prius. They said installing a new head unit shouldn't be a problem, but I'm going to have one of the machinist at work custom machine a plastic piece to serve as faceplate as there are currently no aftermarket faceplate adapters available. The tech believes the radio probably uses the same wiring adapters at the 2009. Will find out once I pull the head unit. He also has experience wiring and programming the steering wheel control adapters, so one more problem solved.

I plan on replacing the stock 6x9 and 6.5's while I'm at it. Since I'll be removing some of the interior to run RCA patch cables from the head unit to amps, will probably also beef up the sound deadening in the car to try to reduce some of the road/tire noise. It seems there is quite a bit of bare metal with little or no insulation in parts of the car. It's not really loud, but can definitely be improved.

So, this will probably be a work in progress for a bit of time. Plan on doing the subwoofer box first. Will update as I progress.

[MikeDS]

Cool...what are you going with the front speakers? Are you putting tweaters up under the windshield? Supposedly there are 2.5" speakers up there, which is an unusual size...curious what you plan to do...take lots of pictures please!

[robinson]

Yes indeed!

Go nuts with the pictures, and post them often too. I'm planning a speaker replacement as well - and need you to make all of the mistakes for me...


Also, have you considered the foam spray insulation (used in houses, available from home depot) to help close up space/dampen sound as well? In the HiHy forum, it was recommended to do that for the rear sub.

[WaterbedWarrior]

Originally Posted by robinson

Also, have you considered the foam spray insulation (used in houses, available from home depot) to help close up space/dampen sound as well? In the HiHy forum, it was recommended to do that for the rear sub.

Nope, nor do I think I'd ever use spray foam insulation in a car. The stuff sticks like adhesive, so its pretty much permanent. It expands, which means it can distort panels.
To stop panels from rattling/vibrating use Dynamat or similar dampening material. To tighten up a panel use double sided foam tape or if you want to fill an interior cavity/gap just stuff it with some polyfill (do not do this in your doors as the polyfill may capture moisture that gets past the window skirt and could then harbor mold).

[robinson]

Originally Posted by WaterbedWarrior

Nope, nor do I think I'd ever use spray foam insulation in a car. The stuff sticks like adhesive, so its pretty much permanent. It expands, which means it can distort panels.
To stop panels from rattling/vibrating use Dynamat or similar dampening material. To tighten up a panel use double sided foam tape or if you want to fill an interior cavity/gap just stuff it with some polyfill (do not do this in your doors as the polyfill may capture moisture that gets past the window skirt and could then harbor mold).

Good points and advice.

Looks like I'll be avoiding the foam,
Thanks!