removing front door 6x9 speakers

[WaterbedWarrior]

My new 6x9's should be in this week and the weather is going to be nice all week so will be riding the motorcycle. I sanded my subwoofer box and washed it out, while waiting for it to dry, I decided to tear open the front doors to get a better look at what I had to worth with for the 6x9 replacements.

If you hate seeing a Prius ripped open, stop now.

First, you pry open the little cover on the inside of the door handle and remove it to reveal a screw. I used a small screw driver being careful not to scratch the interior this took almost no force.


Next, remove the little cover on the bottom of the door hand grip insert. Again I did this with a small screw driver. This reveals another... you guessed it... phillips screw! Exciting I know.


remove the two screws found above and then use your hands to pry gently at the bottom of the boor panel straight out. there are small plastic push clips that will pop out, some may stay in the metal part of the door, this is okay. If any break they can be purchased at your local autobody store cheap.


A few small rubber washers fell out as well, I'm assuming these came off the push pins or the body screws to help prevent rattling.


after the door panel is pulled away from the body lift up to release completely. BE CAREFUL, as you will need to disconnect the two plugs attached to the door lock switch and window switch


the plug attached to the lower light assembly,

and the two cable attached to the door handle and the mechanical locking switch.

After these are disconnected you can remove the panel completely and set somewhere safe.


Revealing the inner door.


So now what we came here for the 6x9 speaker, which is riveted in.


I drilled the rivets out with a #26 drill bit (.147") or you can simply use a 5/32" bit.


In the picture above note the scratch at the bottom of the panel below the drill chuck. This was not done during removal which makes me think something is rubbing on the door. Will look at it more closely tomorrow.

Leaving the speaker simply held in by the gasket.


Make sure you have removed the wiring plug on the top of the speaker and then remove the speaker and be amazed that it weights....nothing. If you ever want to fly an interesting kite on a windy day, just tie a string to this speaker assembly and you are set.



Which leaves us with a hole waiting to be filled, but not so fast.


the mounting depth from the top surface to the window in the rolled down position is only 2.125" or 2 and 1/8 inches. My new infinity speaker requires a top mounting depth requirement of 3". Anything less and the window will contact the speaker magnet when rolled down = bad.
This means I will have to build the speaker out from the door similar to how the original toyota 6x9 was mounted. Mine probably won't be as fancy just a simple mdf ring sealed onto the speaker and the door.
But that is project for later in the week.

Looking in the door, Toyota did add some sound deadening material, but I will be adding more while I have the doors open.

If anyone wants specific pictures or measurements of anything inside the doors while I have them open just let me know.

Until then, enjoy.
Brian

[FireEngineer]

Nice job Brian. Can you photograph the wiring harness and connections for the side mirror? When the lighted mirror covers become available these will be a great asset to assist in the install.

Wayne

[WaterbedWarrior]

Originally Posted by FireEngineer

Nice job Brian. Can you photograph the wiring harness and connections for the side mirror? When the lighted mirror covers become available these will be a great asset to assist in the install.

Wayne

Will see about getting pics of it tomorrow.

Was looking at the speaker, it is stamped 4 ohm 20watts. Speaker is out of a 2010 pkg II.

[MikeDS]

Totally annoying that the speakers are riveted in...whats your plan to attach the new speaker/mount? That looks like the cheesiest speaker ever made...look at that tiny little magnet!

[morpheusx]

its really sad that they are using $1 speakers.

[mgb4tim]

use rivnuts to mount the new speakers.

[mgb4tim]

Are these the same speakers in a III with nav?

[WaterbedWarrior]

Originally Posted by mgb4tim

Are these the same speakers in a III with nav?

Dunno, I would say it is unlikely that the quality of the speaker would be much better though. I need to see about removing the panel up on the dash to get a look at those 2" squakers. Plus I need an idea of how this whole mess is wired. I think I read that they have a bass-blocking cap somewhere for the front squakers. Where it is located will be helpful info for how to rewire the speakers in.

[radioprius1]

Originally Posted by mgb4tim

Are these the same speakers in a III with nav?

With the nav system they use $2 speakers instead of $1 speakers

Kidding! (I have no idea)

Please keep updating this post, this should be good reading material! Are you just planning on upgrading the stock speakers, or are you also going to upgrade the head unit and add an amp?

Thank you
RP1

[WaterbedWarrior]

Originally Posted by radioprius1

Please keep updating this post, this should be good reading material! Are you just planning on upgrading the stock speakers, or are you also going to upgrade the head unit and add an amp?

The plan:

- Replace the front door speakers, may keep the front squawkers depending on how much a PITA they are to get to and replace.
- Currently working on a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure for a JL audio 10" woofer...thread here Custom subwoofer install
- Replace the stock head unit, will be putting in a Pioneer Premiere DEH-P7400MP head unit (currently have) until around Thanksgiving, then will be shopping for an in-dash DVD player on black Friday.
- Two RockFord Fosgate Punch 250a2's amplifiers, one running the subwoofer and one running the Infinity Reference 9623i 3-way 6x9's in the front doors.
-Will probably swap out the rear door speakers when I get around to it, but plan on running them as rear fill off the head unit.