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A/C(Htr) fuse Intermittently blows

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by JerryV, May 28, 2013.

  1. JerryV

    JerryV New Member

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    I have a 2004 Gen II that blows the A/C(Htr) 10 amp fuse. The dealer changed the inverter and replaced the fuse with a 15 amps which masked the problem. I have looked at the items that this feeds and have eliminated the: inverter (Dealer knows very little, Scary), A/C Control assembly, heater water pump assembly. Does anyone have any suggestions? I thought that since the Heater water pump assembly runs intermittently it might be that. Or could it be the diode in the relay that controls it? I cannot seem to find where it is located.. Can anyone help with its loaction? Thanks in advance..
     
  2. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    How often does this happen? Within a few minutes, once a week,...? What conditions? Is it just with A/C use? How does the system work when it is operative?

    Intermittent faults are the worst to get at.

    The A/C compressor could blow that fuse, so I would be looking into that. The diode you mention is to protect the relay from pump motor generated switching transients, and it would be an unlikely candidate, IMHO.

    Also, is there any possibility of rodent damage? Frayed wires someplace that are touching?
     
  3. JerryV

    JerryV New Member

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    First of all thanks for the quick reply... I tried the disconnecting the brushless DC compressor motor for the A/C and the fuse still went. I thought that the compressor motor was driven off the HV voltages? Correct? I looked and cannot find any part of the wiring that looks damaged or frayed. The reason I turned my attention to the heated water storage pump/system is that it runs intermittently and only when the gas engine is not running. I may be totally off base here. Schematically the only things that that fuse supplies are the A/C Control Assembly, The inverter, and the heated water storage pump.. I pray that it's not a frayed wire.. That would be terrible to find. Do you know where the diode I asked about would be located just so I can eliminate it? Thanks...
     
  4. JerryV

    JerryV New Member

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    Sorry, I didn't answer your initial question.. As for the frequency, It seemed to happen more frequently when it was cold out. I metered the current through the fuse yesterday and it read between 0.15 and 0.25 amps.. I drove the car over bumpy terrain for about 5 minutes.. No change fuse OK.. I even tried to swear at it :)
     
  5. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    It sounds like you are doing the best for now. I don't know where that diode is located. They are often tucked away somewhere. I would say that it would be highly unlikely for a diode to fail intermittently, sufficient to blow a 10A fuse, and not become a hard fault in the process. So I would continue to focus elsewhere.

    When you say you eliminated the water pump as a culprit, does that mean the fuse has blown with the water pump disconnected?
     
  6. JerryV

    JerryV New Member

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    The pump was so difficult to get at to unplug it, I replaced it... I didn't have the sense of mind to meter the disconnected circuit to test the diode. Is it correct in saying that the pump runs intermittently? More when cold? That's why it became my focus.. Not much hair left on the top of my head to pull! Thanks..
     
  7. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    Yes, that pump runs only when the engine is *not* running, to keep the hot coolant moving through the heater core. I guess you have put as much logic to the problem as can be, so there is not much more to say until some more cause and effect observations can be made.
     
  8. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Pulling the water pump relay for a few days will eliminate the diode and pump motor. I f it still blows the fault must be else ware. I agree with Nh70 diodes do not normally go intermittent short circuit but there can always be a first time.

    It is also possible the relay itself could be at fault with an intermittent shorted coil.

    John (Britprius)
     
  9. JerryV

    JerryV New Member

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    Thanks John, I would pull the relay if I could locate it.. The info I have says it is in the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment, but I do not see it there. Any clue where that darn thing is? Thanks, Jerry
     
  10. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    Even the relay block becomes Byzantine on the Prius. The A/C WP relay, and the diode as well, is listed on the engine room relay block *inner circuit*, which I suspect means that "some user disassembly required". I haven't been in there, but it is where the fusible links are located, and involves taking things apart to get to the next layer.
     
  11. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    The diode appears to be mounted on the underside of the relay connector in the engine compartment fuse/relay box.

    John (Britprius)
     
  12. JerryV

    JerryV New Member

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    So I finally gave up on trying to access the pump wiring or the internal relay. Instead for testing I disconnected the wire from the engine control computer (by the glove box) that activates the pump relay for the hot coolant storage. That did it... It's been about a month and the fuse is fine.. What is the ramification of not having the pump for the heat storage container working? Just efficiency? Thanks to all who responded..
     
  13. jdcollins5

    jdcollins5 Senior Member

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    By lifting the wire from the engine ECU that activates the pump relay, that indicates that the problem is with the relay or the wiring going to the relay. No one has come up with where the relay is located in the engine fuse box? I have a 2010 so cannot help with your car.

    From what I understand the heat coolant storage is to help with the ICE warmup in cold weather. Without the pump you will be extending your warmup time and cost a little mpg.
     
  14. nh7o

    nh7o Off grid since 1980

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    The heat storage mainly helps the MPG when making frequent stops, especially in the winter. If it is a commute car, one round trip with a long space in the middle, then it won't help all that much. Since it is not used in EU models, it is possibly a small negative effect in some situations, because extra energy is expended to heat the storage system that may not get reused.
     
  15. Mazinio

    Mazinio Junior Member

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    Hey I've had the similar problem with my 2007 prius over the years, but it won't blow any air when turned on, especially in summer (LA). AC won't turn on at all then may kick in after a few minutes or not all. I've got no error codes and read somewhere that possibly switching out the 12v battery could fix the issue. When it doesn't turn on I can hear a louder buzzing type type sound.

    Does anyone know how to fix it? Such a strange blizzard issue. I heard clearing the error codes can fix it but I don't have any in diagnostic mode.

    Thanks and really appreciate any advice.