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brand new Prius owner... asking for input

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by doogster, Mar 12, 2012.

  1. ZitterZap

    ZitterZap Member

    Joined:
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    Houston, TX
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
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  2. penquin230

    penquin230 "Golden Hawk"

    Joined:
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    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Sorry I thought there was more DIY info there. It's easier to get to if you remove rear floor compartment above spare tire. remove right side panel above and front of 12v battery and lower panel facing the HV battery. . there will be an air duct that goes from 12v battery that leads to HV battery fan assy is on the other side of duct.unplug and remove fan assy. Using a vacuum and a small artist brush to remove dust, hair and grime from fins of the small squirrel cage fan. reverse procedure to reinstall.
     
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  3. cnschult

    cnschult Active Member

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    2005 Prius
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    If you title a car you have to pay sales tax, so unless he's an idiot he'll have a dealer's license so he doesn't have to pay sales tax to flip cars.

    good advice, don't use high mileage oil, use synthetic instead. If you are one of those Mobil 1 fanatics use Ext. Perf with Mobil filter M1-103, it'll cost you $40 in parts and last you 15000 miles. I use Pennzoil Platinum with fram XG4967 filter, it costs me less than $30 and lasts me 13333 miles. The point I'm trying to make is don't buy nice long lasting oil and a cheap filter because the filter may not have the capacity to last as long as the oil. Nothing wrong with buying cheap oil and a cheap filter and changing it every 5000 miles, especially if you live in the south where cold weather starting is not an issue, but spending $20 for 5000 miles doesn't make sense when you can spent 50% more & it lasts 167% longer.

    I hope you got a good deal if there are no service records. 1.nothing special about prius oil change, but "iffy lubes" and even stealerships have a tendency to overfill, do it yourself and do it right!! 2.pros of electric motor are no maintenance, clean, 90%+ efficiency, long service life and full torque avail immediately. cons are its much quick to fill a gas tank than an array of batteries. in comparison the ICE has only around 30-40% efficiency. 3. I tried to buy a new driver's door armrest and was told I had to buy the whole door panels, $680+tax, same with door actuator, you have to buy the $330 entire door locking mechanism. Toyota is just unable (or unwilling) to sell every little bit and piece separately.

    the difference on priuschat b/t the 'experts' and the 'layman' are that experts actually pay to have their used transaxle fluid analyzed, so I'll take their advice: Use oem Toyota ATF WS & do the first at 30K, the second at 90K, the third at 160K, the fourth at 240K should last the life of the car. You'll notice the interval gets larger and larger, that's because although the fluid is designed for 100K miles of service, it becomes contaminated with fine particles of wear material that lessens over time after the transaxle gets "broken-in". You can DIY for around $30, the car must be lifted and level, but because toyota specs you to fill the transaxle an impossible 5mm below the check/fill port, I'm going to have the back of my car 1 inch higher than the front which should solve that problem . . . if you don't have proof it was done just do it now, $30 to keep a multi thousand dollar part running is a no-brainer.
     
  4. penquin230

    penquin230 "Golden Hawk"

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2008
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    Location:
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
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    IV