PCV valve replacement is not all that difficult on the left hand drive Prius

I just replaced the PCV valve on my 05 Prius, which has 187400 miles on it. The valve was last replaced (supposedly) during the 120K mile service (that is if the dealer really did it - I don't know, I wasn't the owner then). I wasn't sure if 67K miles was too early to inspect/replace it but I figured it wouldn't be too difficult to access even though it's clearly not the piece of cake it is on other cars. I could remove the PCV valve on my Honda Civic quicker than I could unscrew the oil filler cap!

Removal of several fasteners/connectors is needed to gain access to the PCV valve, the PCV purge hose, and the breather hose - it's not too difficult when you follow the disassembly sequence in the service manual. I have the procedure memorized after looking at it several times.

The service manual recommends removing the air cleaner housing to gain access to the PCV valve across the cylinder head cover once the wiring harness has been moved out of the way. This is definitely the way to do this job. Once you've disconnected the fuel injector connectors and ignition coil connectors, it's not too difficult to move the wiring harness out of the way to get to the PCV valve.

Total time from start to finish was about 1.5 hours. It would have taken me less time but the box end wrench with a built in ratchet I hoped to use was too wide so I had to find another way. Surprisingly enough, there is sufficient room to use a short socket and a 1/2 inch drive ratchet wrench. I used a six point impact socket from Harbor Freight and a Sears Craftsman socket wrench.

I must point out that the thin walled tube at the end of the PCV valve that connects to the purge hose was too long to allow the socket to fit completely onto the ratchet so I cheated a little and left a gap between the square end of the socket and the ratchet post. The socket and ratchet were engaged enough to function Normally, I wouldn't do this but I didn't see this as being too big of a risk. Also, I didn't have a 19 mm box end wrench (or couldn't find one in my garage - TODAY) and I really didn't feel like going out to buy one (or another one as is what usually happens after I find the other one or two 19 mm box wrenches I already own - LOL!)

It was difficult to break the PCV valve loose - I decided to use a 2 foot long pipe on the ratchet wrench to get enough torque to loosen it - force times distance is your friend. Has been many times.

There's not a bunch of room, but there's enough to get the 1/2 inch drive ratchet wrench back there. Some people have indicated there's not enough clearance. Well, there is just enough space to do so. Actually, I'm glad I did use the 1/2 inch drive ratchet. The PCV valve was pretty snug and I'm not sure if the box end wrench (with another box end wrench added to the end) would have provided enough torque to break the PCV valve thread loose. I'll never know now.

I removed both the PCV purge hose and the breather hose to inspect them. No oil inside either one of them at either side. The old PCV valve itself seems to be okay - it rattles when you shake it, however, it seems the pintle inside of the valve is rubbing against the inside of the valve body when compressing the spring from the cylinder head side. I did not notice this "interference" with the new PCV valve. Maybe there's some carbon or oil lacquer build up inside of it that would explain why there's a slight scraping sound when the spring is compressed - who knows.

So my friends, if you're thinking about replacing the PCV valve on your U.S. market Gen II it is really easiest to remove it like I just described without removing the wipers and cowl like one Chatter did and wrote a nice procedure for. I'm sure that method works fine but I believe the method I used is quicker.