Rebuilt HV battery still showing P3006. Suggestions, PLEASE?

My first suggestion is that you need to carefully examine the battery voltage sense wires and the copper bus bars as one or more may be broken. I suggest you use an ohmmeter to verify continuity from the copper bus bar that a given wire is connected to, to the wiring harness connector that plugs into the traction battery ECU.

My second suggestion is that is not sufficient to measure no- load module voltage. It is possible that one or more modules has a voltage sag under load. Hence you need to devise a suitable load for the battery that will allow you to measure module voltage under load.

For example, you could use 120VAC household bulbs to create a load. Since you have a Classic, your battery has 38 modules. 38 modules x 8V each = 304V. You'll need sockets and wire so that you can wire three bulbs in series.

If you can buy 250W, 120VAC bulbs and use three in series, that will constitute a load of around 600W at 300V.

Then you'll need to hook up the load to the battery, bypassing the system main relays. Obviously you need to take care not to damage the battery or kill yourself in the process. Once the load is connected, you can measure module voltage and see what results.

 

I concur with Patrick but notice you didn't mention reading the 19 module-pair voltages. A Prius aware scanner can do that and perhaps provide the missing insight.

Bob Wilson

 

The high-level P codes can be read by any off the shelf scanner. But this codes comes from Prius-specific control computers. A Prius-aware scanner (use the search function) will show you what the Prius control computers are seeing. This is different from your VOM metrics of the modules.

Over the years, we have seen two types of 'sense wire' problems reported here:

• bad connector at the control electronics side
• corroded sense wire inside the insulation

By seeing what the battery controller detects, you can quickly focus on the fault area.

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson

ps. I bought my my first miniVCI on Ebay only to discover the firmware was out of date. Eventually I located the Xhorse reseller and their version has 2.0.4, the latest known version. Both versions work with the NHW11 but the more recent one also works with the ZVW30.

 

If you want to stop the corrosion you must install new(er) battery modules. There is no way to effectively fix a leaking module because the modules create pressure within as they heat up, while the battery is in operation.

 

Although under new management, ReInvolt had developed nickle plated buss bars and senses wires. I don't know if this can be commonly done but it would provide protection currently missing.

The KOH electrolyte "eats" copper, as you've discovered. So the permanent fix:

• plate them with KOH metal, nickle
• replace modules with ones that don't leak (aka., new and unabused)

GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson

 

There was a Toyota service bulletin issued due to the Gen 1 main battery modules leaking, Toyota will remove the main battery and apply a sealant/anticorrosive goop to rectify the leaking module problem and should be able to tell you if it was done to your VIN. I'm told the problem was resolved with the Gen 2 modules