need help hv battery

You could try that.

One or two automobile headlights could be a good load. A 55W 12V bulb will probably draw ~3A at 8V. Put two in parallel to double the stress on the battery module.

 

6.5 amp hours.

Let me relate an experience that I had with my stepfather. He has a 03 Civic Hybrid, which is a 20 module HV battery. He got the IMA warning light. I had him disconnect the 12V battery to reset the codes. That automatically triggers a negative recal when the car is restarted, meaning the entire battery pack is force recharged. Next, I suggested that he keep a very light touch on the throttle, to minimize the amount of current pulled from the battery. Other than one time where he had the cruise control on and it hammered the throttle when going over a hill, he did not have the IMA light come back on for 750 miles of driving. I let the battery sit for a week, and it was immediately clear which module ("stick") was bad. So it is possible that, at higher SOC, a bad module will not show up, but either time or deep discharge will reveal it.

Before you hook up the light bulbs, reset the codes, put it in neutral, turn on the A/C to high, and let it go until you either get the triangle again, or the warning to put the car into Park to charge the battery. Then pull the cover off and check your voltages.

 

Since your car logged DTC P3012, this means that the problem is within battery block 2. Battery block 2 is composed of modules 3 and 4.

There are fourteen battery blocks, and therefore 28 battery modules.

I don't recall which side the battery block 2 can be found on. However there is an easy way to identify it. When you open the battery case, you will note the orange traction interlock switch that you will have already removed as a safety precaution. That switch is wired so that, when open, it breaks the connection between battery blocks 9 and 10.

Hence, once you have identified block 9, just move towards the end of the battery, away from where the switch is wired into the modules. Either module 3 or 4 is likely to be bad.

If you want to do a complete job when replacing modules, I would suggest replacing six modules: 1-6. This is because whichever module has failed has overheated and has likely shortened the life of the surrounding modules. Hence if you replace all six there is a good chance that your repair job will hold for more than a few minutes.

Good luck.

 

Count from the ECU side.

 

ohhh no... we have seen stories of generic scan tools undoing zero point calibrations in the braking system. If the lights do not go off with multiple restarts, see Patrick's post about resetting the light:

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...162-diy-disaster-need-help-3.html#post1150539

If that still does not clear it, someone with a Techstream or other bi-directional scan tool may need to look at it.

What if you measure voltages at the connection to ECU, i.e. 15.08V, 15.14V, etc. That would tell you if there is any issue with the wiring leading to the ECU. You can trace the sense wires to the connector to know which block you are probing. If that still looks good, then proceed with discharging the modules, down to 7.2V each.