My Open EVSE Build Thread

EVSE_by_mwolrich - open-evse - A portable EVSE built with an Open EVSE board. - Open Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) - Google Project Hosting

Scroll to the bottom for some new pictures of 30A OpenEVSEs, using OpenEVSE V4.0 thruhole PCB, I am building for a few members here. I call these builds "10 pounds in a 5 pound bag". You have to become a packaging expert to get it all in. The Anderson Powepole quick disconnects will be mounted below the AdaFruit RGB LCD display.

 

I like the term "10 pounds in a 5 pound bag".

 

yesterday, we decided to play golf because it was so nice out. i only had about two hours to charge and thought, 'dang, i wish i had an L2!'

 

You will, soon (assuming you have a 240V outlet availble)

 

i have the breaker in place. if you have an outlet, it will take me less time to hook everything up than it does to charge the car.

 

Yu

Yup, I have an L6-20R, which is a 240V 20A twistlock outlet for you, the OpenEVSE will have a matching L6-20P plug, plus I have an adapter for you, standard 120V plug to L6-20R, twists onto the L6-20P on the OpenEVSE so it can be used on a 120V standard outlet as well.
I also figured out a way to put a switch on the ground input on the monitoring circuit, so you can use the OpenEVSE on a GFCI outlet if you have to (a small current is passed from hot to ground, resulting in most GFCI outfits tripping).

 

excellent, thank you!

 

Awaiting J-1772 cable for one, and Anderson PowerPole quick disconnects for all 3... But they are completed and tested.

The small toggle switch seen above the relay connects/disconnects the ground for the L1/L2 sense circuit, as a small current is passed to ground, which results in most GFCI outlets tripping (that's what a GFI looks for).. So it can be disabled if you have to use a 120V GFCI outlet.

FYI: Leviton is having a %20 off sale until 12/2, use code "cyberlev" on checkout. Received an email with this in it a little while ago, could come in handy if you need a J-1772 cable:
J1772 Charge Connector and Cable : Electric Vehicle : Leviton Manufacturing

 

Gotta love how the 15A version is more expensive than the 30A one.

 

Very impressive all around!

I was considering building my own open-evse unit, but I went the EVSEupgrade(dot com) route instead.
I ran a 240v outlet to my weather protected front porch last weekend (about $30 for parts- I already had the 40 feet of 12/2 sitting around). For $240 + $30 the EVSEupgrade was the best option for me.

 

how is the charging time?

 

240V (L2) will be about 90 minutes, has been consistently for me. One of the above units is yours, just waiting for a few more parts and the Leviton cable to arrive (should be here on Wednesday)

 

thanks, i was wondering about robs conversion. i think cheslyn said 2 hours?

 

Evseupgrade is great, the benefit of an OpenEVSE is 2 things:

1. You don't have to modify your factory provided EVSE, and it can stay in your car for destination charging, no packing/unpacking or forgetting it.
2. You "own" your own L1/L2 EVSE, which can be used on future PHEVs and EVs, and it's a 2nd seperate EVSE (spare)

The cost is probably $150-$200 more, so not a massive cost difference.

P.S. evseupgrade and OpenEVSE at 240V, 12A will both charge the PiP in 90 minutes

 

I just sent my stock Toyota EVSE cordset in for upgrade today, it will get to CA by Thurs or Fri- I expect it back some time next week. From what I've read (and from my experience w/the 240v ChargePoint station) the full recharge should be around 90min give or take...

One other nice benefit with the EVSEupgrade is that you can still use the OEM cordset on 120v outlets w/the $25 adapter.

 

The same adapter works with OpenEVSE, installing L6-20 plugs on the OpenEVSE, and using that same adapter.
(Which BTW, are usually $15-$20 on eBay)

 

No problem, I ordered another one myself...

Take a peek at the Anderson PowerPole connectors, just installed the first set on one of the 30A OpenEVSEs last night, these are so the J-1772 cable can be "pulled" from the EVSE and disconnect. You make the "pilot" wire (usually orange) the shortest wire, so it disconnects first, followed by the 2 hots (red/ black), then finally the green ground wire is the longest, so it would disconnect last.

FYI, if you are interested in getting these connectors, they are fairly inexpensive:
Individual Housings, Contacts & Roll Pins: Separate or extra powerpole parts and components

 

I could program it for you, not a big deal... The AdaFruit programmer is what I use, that's a kit as well
You need to setup the Arduino environment as well, so you can compile/upload the code.

Yes, the OpenEVSE V4.0 has the FTDI port, so it's possible to program it that way, but I don't think it can initially be done that way.

If you want me to program your OpenEVSE, you could just send the ATMEL chip, since I have the same OpenEVSE V4.0, put it on my PCB and program it for you, but you might just want to learn how to do it yourself?