P3000 & P3009 Codes

Start by running this test

The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code and then turn the key or push button to key on/not ready mode, (This is IG ON on a Gen I or the second position on the ignition switch (after ACC)) wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not set, turn key or push button to "ready mode"(start on the Gen I) and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code resets now, the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in about minutes with a scan tool while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.​

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Keep in mind we're looking for the P3009 code to come back so a scanner of some sort is necessary.​

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Read more: http://priuschat.com/threads/2001-prius-code-p3001.119973/#ixzz2IoVf1u5P​

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P3009 is an HV battery voltage leak code. The leak is most likely in the transaxle but could be in the battery or the inverter. This test should narrow that down for you.​

 

I've seen many dealers mis-diagnose Gen1's. The original inveter may have been fine and you have a problem somewhere else. Usually MG2 in the tranny or a leak inside the HV battery case causes the P3009. Follow the procedure above to narrow it down then use a megger to test it further.

 

Are there any drivability issues with the car besides DTC's?

 

Yeah, unfortunately, it sounds like the transaxle but run the test to confirm. The inverter could also cause those symptoms by not providing the right power to the MG's. So really its pretty much narrowed down to the inverter or the tranny. I know you said you replaced the inverter and that's why I'm leaning tranny but that test will narrow it down.

Remember when you run the test tonight we're looking to see when the p3009 fault comes back (not just the check engine light which will probably come on right away). Also look for other fault codes (of course).

The battery block voltages look fine.

 

You may be the first. Just have a clean, dry, water bottle to catch a sample when you drain it. You don't have to analyze it but without a sample, no option.

Bob Wilson

 

I haven't heard of a fluid change fixing the drivability issues you mention. I would place a very high probability that a fluid change will NOT solve your problem but, you never know.

 

120k on the car it has alot of life left in it. if it needs and mg2 they can be had for about 1k or you can find a whole tranny on ebay for less than 600. but at that price i would just buy the new mg2, lucious garage shows a video of how it can be done. looks easy enough, not the end of the cars life.

 

It would be great to see some detailed reports on how to do that swap. Inside the MG2 end plate that must be removed is the resolver, feeding back rotor speed and position to the HV ECU for power phase control, and reading a bit between the lines of the first Luscious Garage article on the replacement, there might be something important in techniques Jack Rosebro developed for completing the replacement without disturbing that. For all I know it could be easy, but that detail in the write-up would make me proceed cautiously.

... I guess since the stator's not sold separately and you have to extract it from a complete MG2, you do get two shots at learning how it comes apart.

I haven't seen any more detailed write-up covering that yet, and the Luscious video doesn't cover that part. Jack Rosebro's in the training business but so far I haven't looked up when/where his trainings are or what they cost. So it would be great to read details from people who have done this job and have time to write it up.

-Chap

 

The tranny has to be lowered a few inches to get the end plate off the drivers side which is almost as much work as pulling it out of the car. Do not loosen the resolver bolts on the end plate since that is how the resolver is adjusted (relative to the end plate). Remove the entire end plate (you can remove the oil pump in the center though).

You can replace the stator with a new or good used stator, but use the original rotor since since it is shimmed and balanced for your particular tranny (even if you got a new one with the stator assembly)....and the rotor can be a PITA to pull out because of magnetic resistance. Wear gloves and be careful.

 

Thanks!

How easily does the end plate come off? I assume the rotor's got a bearing on that end ... is it just a slip fit or is some kind of pull/press arrangement needed?

-Chap

 

It's not too snug, no puller required although sometimes the rotor comes out with the end plate. It's better if the rotor stays in the tranny, then you can see it's inserted position relative to the stator (windings).

Don't forget to drain the tranny fluid before you pull of the end plate or remove the drivers side drive axle....unless you like a mess on the floor.

If you are leaving the tranny in the car you don't have to disturb the tranny cooling system bits.

 

what is this resolver that you speak of?

 

It is a fascinating part.

-Chap

 

What are the steps to partially lower the engine/transmission to be able to access the MG2 end plate on a Gen 1 (2003)? Any idea how long it takes to lower it? I'm considering doing it myself, after seeing the Luscious Garage video. The hard issue seems to be getting full access to that end plate. Any info is helpful. (It saddens me to think of junking an otherwise perfectly good car. Can't justify paying $6,000+ for a full repair here in the D.C. metro area.) Thanks!

 

I put the front up on jack stands than remove steering shaft and lower the front cariage with a floor jack . Do not go more than 5 inches at a time as there is a wiring harness attatched to the power steering unit. remove the invertor assy. and than you can use a cherry picker and attach a small chain to the top trans mount and slowly lower the floor jack and the trans together approx. 8 inches or so. than you have access to the side plate on the trans.. Follow 3 prong Pauls advise.. He does it just like I do...GRIN..