Help! Dealer just said I need both batteries replaced...

Where are you at? I might buy it.

 

Ahh, too far from me.

 

I agree with getting a second opinion. The 12-volt could be the root of most of your problems. If you have time to wait before repairing, let people on this site help you, it could save you a lot of unnecessary expense. Please add your location to your profile, so someone could help you find a good honest Toyota repair place or further diagnose the issue. I know things only break when spouse is deployed. "Retired Army Vet"

 

The worst time to sell the car is when it is a lawn ornament. Nobody is going to pay much for it in that condition.

Let's not throw the baby out with the bath water. Register the VIN at Toyota Owners Official Web Site: Service Coupons, Owner's Manuals, Service Scheduling And More so you can see the dealer performed service history. I would expect to see the 12v battery replaced at least once. (At best I get 3+ years from one.) Exide, Bosch & Optima make direct fit batteries so you don't have to buy one from the Toyota dealer.

If the 12v battery is shot further diagnostics aren't possible. Does it charge when a trickle charger is hooked up? Does it hold a charge?

 

I'd at least try a new 12V battery before condemning it. Do be very careful with any jump starts until then, you can fry the inverter if you get the polarity wrong.

 

kristieq2,
I agree that you should at least give the idea of a new 12v battery a try.

Or do you have a different, known good, 12v car battery and a set of jumper cables?
If so you could put it in the back temporarily and call me.

I can talk you through some options and ideas for diagnostics.

 

Is your car not worth the $250 a new 12v would cost to determine if the battery is the culprit. And you can buy one online for $180 to $200 total. Install it yourself and that's the end of it. Or bring it to one of the nice auto places and usually they replace batteries for free if you ask them.

You could very well have a bad traction battery. It could also be perfectly fine and the 12v is causing electrical gremlins. What is your gameplan if you have a bad traction battery? Scrap the car? Fix it? Sell it? If you have another good battery laying around you could temporarily connect it to the system (remove the original) and drive slowly and safely around with it sitting in the rear. If that works, then it is just the 12v battery. Now this is dangerous since the battery mount be mountable in that little JDM hole and in the event of a collision you now have a 50 pound lead object being hurled towards the back of your head. Momentum is a killer... But for testing late at night on deserted roads, it might be worth saving $250 if you are really that hard up for cash.

 

It is definitely possible, that's why we say replace the 12v.

It will not operate "properly" with a bad module. It can however limp along for tens of thousands of miles. Anytime the cells get too out of balance, codes will be thrown. You can reset and ignore them, but know that you are running on borrowed time. To keep the cells more in balance, use the pack less. The Prius cannot be run with the ICE only, you always need the battery at a bare minimum to spin up and start the gasoline engine. If you putter around after that you should be fine for a while. If you are punching the acceleration, you will most definitely throw codes.

Sell the car how? A dealership wont appreciate the new battery, but a private party will appreciate at least some, maybe half, of that value. If you are just going to crush it, then take the battery out and use it somewhere else. Lead is lead.

Used cars are a gamble, and fixing them even more so. You have no control over the last owner. 200K is very early for a modern Toyota to break down, and I would have no hesitations putting in a $2000 Re-Involt battery and driving it another decade with nothing else but maintenance items.

 

Hope you can return that 12V you just ordered. It won't cure what's ailing your Prius (IMHO).

 

The high voltage traction battery has a problem and this will not go away if you replace the 12V battery.

OK, then you should cancel your order for the 12V battery and work on getting rid of the car.

 

I agree with Patrick. I would say from this thread that you're not a do-it-yourselfer when it comes to working on a high-voltage hybrid system. That is probably the only way to get an economical repair on your vehicle. Those codes indicate serious problems with the HV battery pack and possibly the ECU. There are four subsets of the P3000 DTC (123, 124, 388, and 389), but they all require a qualified hybrid mechanic to track down and figure out which one or ones it is. Maybe you can find one of these do-it-yourselfers that will make you a decent offer for your car. Hope it turns out OK.

 

Kristie,
Again, feel free to give me a call and we can briefly talk. 608-729-4082
(I'd call you but obviously I don't have your #)
Or drop me an email with your number and a time to call. [email protected]
Even if you decide to sell the car I may be able to help you with that.

 

Tomas Zakarka (727)686-1943 for hybrid battery rebuilds in the Tampa/St. Pete/Clearwater, Florida area.

He is probably too far away, but maybe he knows someone in your area.

In my area I found several mechanics who provided prius hybrid battery rebuilds. At least one came to the vehicle. It would be much cheaper than the alternatives.

Best of luck.

 

I think she sold the car.
Someone likely got a great deal for a car that may have simply needed a 12v battery.