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Relooking at warm-up

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Fuel Economy' started by bwilson4web, Sep 17, 2013.

  1. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I had recorded some data but looking at the numbers, I found a problem with the time-stamps in one segment. I'm using miniVCI and the first segment, timestamps were badly off. I'm looking how I might fix it enough to get some useful data.

    Bob Wilson
     
  2. FrankTiger

    FrankTiger Member

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    Hi everyone

    I do agree with much of the posts of this thread that match with my records posted here: HSD behaviour during S1a & S1b warming stages | PriusChat

    In that thread, for stationary warm-ups you may find several graphs like those below:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If we look at the ICE exhaust and catalyser temperatures, there are two probes; #1 probe is located before the catalyser and its temperature chart is the following:

    [​IMG]

    Click here for zoom in

    From my point of view there is nothing remarkable about #1 probe temperature.

    Let's see #2 probe which is located behind the catalyser. Its chart is:

    [​IMG]

    Click here for zoom in

    In the #2 probe temperature chart there is a common inflection point of all curves at 55 seconds, which indicates that the amount of heat coming from the exhaust is much less after 55 seconds (S1b) than before (S1a) This is the effect of the ignition timing change designed by Toyota.

    I hope you like them

    Big hugs from Frank
     
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  3. Mr.Electric

    Mr.Electric Member

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    I have started using a different cold morning fuel saver technique. This works on non hybrids too.
    10-15 minutes before leaving home on cold mornings I put a little space heater on the drivers seat facing the windshield. Let it run on low for 10-15 minutes. I drape the cord out of the bottom of the door and shut the door.
    The seats , windshield , steering wheel, even back window are warm and clear. Now I don't need to use front and rear defrost, saving significant fuel. It is also nice and warm inside. I consider it a crude form of a plug in hybrid. A few hundred watt hours stored in the form of heat in the cabin seats and windows.
    I want to add a block heater to the regiment when I get a chance.
     
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  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Frank and I are looking at the same data with different tools. So we should see similar results. I was bothered by seeing the engine trim going "closed loop" as soon as the engine started. This bothered me as there should be some thermal delay before the first O{2} sensor began returning usable data. But I noticed an interesting pattern when I looked at "Total Fuel Trim":
    [​IMG]
    • 70C - a legacy threshold for Prius hybrid mode, this looks to still be a threshold for fuel-trim based mixture control
    • 75C - looks to be a threshold where the fuel trim really takes a hike, never seen this before
    • 88C - the engine stabilizes and now the fuel trim moves in a new direction
    I do not know if this has a practical application as this is a new observation.

    I will be looking at the data to see if we can derive BSFC information as well as the operating line. I'm really interested in the correlation between long term fuel trim and BSFC.

    Bob Wilson
     
  5. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    When you look at the big picture, we see:
    [​IMG]
    • 0-120 sec. - sitting on driveway in "P" during warm-up.
    • 120-960 sec. - a neighborhood and shopping center cut-through to the dry cleaner. Frequent stops to restart the recording software.
    • 960-1800 sec. - cross town route, 40 mph access road, frequent stops to restart recording software.
    This was a segmented route because the miniVCI software only records data in ~150 second segments. It may be possible to reduce the number of data fields and get long records but once it stops, two operations taking about 10-15 seconds are required before restarting.

    In this case:
    • cold-start to 40C - the engine runs on the driveway until it reaches 40C and stops
    • 40C - 70C - the engine tries to run at every opportunity but stopping or other events, it can autostop
    • ~70C - clearly the engine is running in closed-loop with maximum airflow and minimum fuel burn
    Bob Wilson
     
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  6. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Ok, I'm beginning to form a testable hypothesis for a minimum, cold-start, fuel burn:
    • cold-start-to-lambda - during the initial warm-up, let the engine run in the driveway until it 'surges' indicating the lambda feedback loop is working, ~50 seconds. Worst possible BSFC
    • lambda-to-40C - during this phase, leave the driveway and using neighborhood and minimum drive energy routes, try to maximize use of "N" while moving and waiting for 40C to show up. Try to avoid stop signs and lights. The engine is still in a poor BSFC range so avoid loads.
    • 40C-to-70C - during this phase, maximize use of "N" but continue to drive at the lower speeds. Stop signs and lights are not a problem. You want to minimize power demands as the engine is still in weak BSFC range.
    • 70C-to-88C - drive normally but try to avoid heavy loads. The BSFC range is tolerable and improving.
    • 88C-to-destination - drive normally as the car is in the best BSFC range. Don't go nuts on drawing a lot of traction battery power, just drive it.
    I started testing it this morning but it is new to me too. Regardless, there is data suggesting this might work. With the colder weather, this will be more easily quantified.

    Understand that I am not happy with using non-engineering terms like:
    • worst BSFC
    • poor BSFC
    • weak BSFC
    • tolerable and improving BSFC
    • best BSFC
    I was looking at some BSFC charts from this data this morning and upon reflection, I'm seeing a pattern that should be useable for an optimized, cold-start, drive pattern. Not to worry, this is an obscure area and I'll try to add details as the experiment proceeds.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  7. edwardob

    edwardob Member

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    thanks...great stuff.......
    at the speeds your suggesting...the car would use a lot traction battery automatically?
    even your hypermiling record technique requires a lot of use of battery by cruise control at the speeds you suggest!

    so where does the traction battery fit in? [hope it doesnt send this to much off topic]
     
  8. FrankTiger

    FrankTiger Member

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    In this thread I posted some charts of the ICE behaviour with different coolant temperature ranges that supports Bob's suggestions. The average power Vs RPM for each coolant temperature range is:

    [​IMG]

    From 1450RPM with coolant temperatures lower than 70ºC (158ºF) the ICE provides some 2kW more than with warmer coolant temperatures.

    The average torque Vs RPM for each coolant temperature range is:

    [​IMG]

    The 8 Nm increase of torque with lower than 70ºC coolant temperatures is noticeable above 1450 RPM.

    The average efficiency reported by OBD parameters Vs RPM for each coolant temperature range is:
    [​IMG]

    As Bob says above, the higher the coolant temperature, the higher ICE efficiency at any RPM.

    Please note that real ICE efficiency is 7% lower than the one reported by OBD parameters, which is the same amount that the fuel mileage indicated by the dashboard cheats.

    Big hugs from Frank
     
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  9. edwardob

    edwardob Member

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    getting it as warm as possible as quick as possible is the key.....
    engine block heater.....grill blockiing...
    what about power mode for start,

    just trying to bring to real life use of these graphs
     
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  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Without asking for extra power! When the engine is coldest, you want to exploit every opportunity for speed that does not come from the engine. There are strategies.
    Yes and others.

    No because it will ask for output shaft power (well technically just remapping the accelerator). A twitchy foot will be bad news.

    You understand our goals and this is appreciated!

    Bob Wilson
     
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  11. edwardob

    edwardob Member

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    but ultimately heat will come from engine.....not n...?
     
  12. Maxwell61

    Maxwell61 Active Member

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    Well, technically PWR will leave the engine idling (if no power is required) at speed more than 35 km/h (real) so, if a fast warming up is the the topic, it should give some contribution on faster warming.

    I've got the problem of a 6 km slight descending slope just on leaving home, which means an engine still cold after the first 6 km, a good part of it with ICE off.
    Testing the descent in PWR, i've got 10° more at the end of the stretch. Altough i'm still lacking of a precise FE comparison, FE seems to be affected in a negative sense.
    Another data is that idling in PWR with a cold engine, its a variable affair depending on cooling temperature: for example, at 40° ICE spin (unloaded) @ something as +1400 rpm, going down to 1200 only approaching about 60° .


    But PWR is an area worth investingating IMHO, particularly on the basis of such big influence of Temp over efficiency. Without a grill blocking strategy, i found its not uncommon to remain below 65° in a whole trip...
     
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  13. szgabor

    szgabor Active Member

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    At what condition will PWR mode depend on speed this way? ... I do use it nothing like this I EVER seen. I monitoring RPM no way PWR mode does this. The only thing is happening is that in ECO mode the ICE will turn off at about 120F rather than the 145F or so in NORMAL/PWR

    Can you quote some sources ??

    That is correct it depends on temp not speed (as far as anyone reported) so it is WORTH WHILE to start with ECO if you expect stopping early (lights/stop sign etc or in your case no need power).

    [/QUOTE]
     
  14. Agent J

    Agent J Hypoliterian

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    Indeed! One good strategy is starting off with the car pointing downhill and choosing a relatively downhill route without straying off too much from the general direction of one's destination. Doing the warm-up at speed with less load is a tough balancing act but very rewarding when you see your mpgs are acceptably high in the first 5 - 10 mins.

    That's the strategy i use in my afternoon commute as i can't use the EBH because I park on the side streets. However, i position my car pointing downhill and start off rolling down the hill (while the ICE starts its warms up routine) and taking the sea level route rather than the hilly route of about the same distance in the first 1.5 miles before joining part of the hilly route again going towards the uphill freeway. On a warm day (like 28C /82F coolant start temp), and an SOC above 52%, the resulting mpg is around 55-57 mpg in the first 5-min segment already.

     
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  15. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Hi folks,

    You' all are hitting around the problem as I see it. We don't have a good, general purpose, performance model of this critical part of Prius operation: cold-start to warm-up.

    We have good data for steady-state performance of a fully warmed up car on a 'standard' day:
    [​IMG]
    • predict long distance, highway performance
    • correction factors
      • winds - vector addition
      • temperature - air density
    Sad to say, we don't have a good, warm-up model in part because it is a technically difficult problem. We have a lot of 'I use . . .' reports but these are very seldom reported with numbers as a differential:
    • "A" MPG - driving protocol A
    • "B" MPG - driving protocol B
    I've got my own 'rules of thumb' but I don't hold them up as any more or less informed than anyone else's report. We just don't have a good engineering model based upon credible metrics. Now Frank is also recording data (his is great!) but we still need a credible model. With a good model, we can do 'what if' tests to look at quantitative results for:
    • block heater
    • fender inlet block
    • route selection
    • space heater in cabin
    • 12V plug-in heating (bet you hadn't heard much about this one!)
    What gives me hope is seeing catalytic converter warm-up is reproducible, a strong function of the burn mass flow, not the vehicle operation! Whether coasting in the neighborhood or sitting on the driveway, the same amount of combusted gas has to flow through the catalytic converter to reach a given end temperature.

    One last thing, what we're doing here is NOT some 'snap' exercise. It takes data capture and analysis in as well controlled circumstances as possible. Once collected, the data has to be looked at and tested. Then there is the problem of 'cold soak' which depends upon local weather. All of this is being done without the engineering data Toyota treats as proprietary. So please be patient. <grins>

    Bob Wilson
     
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  16. Maxwell61

    Maxwell61 Active Member

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    [/quote]


    Sources? You have just to push a button in your car, you don't need a source :) And even when i don't turn on Torque Pro, in the 2013 Auris we have the Engine off light in the dashboard!

    I see you have a 2012 Prius, so you should have my same software. Anyway, beeing a moderator on a Toyota hybrid forum, as per my signature, i know this feature is present also in 2009-10 EU Prius.

    But i'm sure you're beeing sincere saying that, in your car, PWR does'nt leave the engine on above 35 km/h. On our EU cars its like this in any condition, its just a standard feature regardless : that means that your side of the pond, Toyota choosed different settings for PWR. EU cars have it, since 2009.
     
  17. Maxwell61

    Maxwell61 Active Member

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    Bob, sorry for the OT, can you kindly give me a reference were the graph above has been discussed? I presume Ken@japan supplied it, is'nt it?
     
  18. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The MPG vs mph chart?

    When I picked up my wife's Prius, I performed and recorded the speed vs MPG benchmarks. I missed one data point which I added the following Saturday morning. I understand the CleanMPG group are doing similar work.

    Ken@Japan has been a terrific ambassador from the Japanese Prius community. Along with him, we've had great contributions from folks like Clive Burk (UK), Stephan (DE), Frank (ES), and a long list of USA pioneers. Each has brought unique contributions to the "Stone Soup" of Prius knowledge.

    Bob Wilson
     
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  19. szgabor

    szgabor Active Member

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    Sources? You have just to push a button in your car, you don't need a source :) And even when i don't turn on Torque Pro, in the 2013 Auris we have the Engine off light in the dashboard!

    I see you have a 2012 Prius, so you should have my same software. Anyway, beeing a moderator on a Toyota hybrid forum, as per my signature, i know this feature is present also in 2009-10 EU Prius.
    [/QUOTE]

    This is my 3rd Prius starting in 2007 with a Gen II :)
    I think I was not clear you said this is only in PWR. I tried to say that it isn't pwr (not that it will NOT keep it about 992 RPM) ... In our car I believe it is 42mph ... when the ICE will NOT shut off. BUT that has nothing to do with PWR/ECO that is basically protecting the overspeeding MG1. In ALL mode this will happen. I could not find any difference (neither heard anyone yet saying this) that.

    So just to clarify you were arguing against using PWR during warm up by saying (or not) that this will not let the ICE shut off at the given speed but ECO or NORMAL will. And my question was under what other condition only during warm up or otherwise ??

    I could only find so far btw ECO vs PWR regarding the warm up that in ECO it will allow the ICE shut off at a lower cooler temp (today it was about 105F for ECO) then I changed to PWR on purpose and ICE started up. The next stop somewhere about 130F or so at the stop in PWR mode ICE shut off ... I have several STOP sign before I can reach full warm up (unfortunately).

    You maybe right (during warm up) but I can not replicate this .. I am certain that there is NO difference btw ECO and PWR btw 20mph (35kmh) and 42mph (~70kmh) ICE shuts down in glide in PWR mode under 42mph
     
  20. Maxwell61

    Maxwell61 Active Member

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    Sorry, it must be my freaking horrible english.

    1) Between 20 mph and 42 mph, EU Prius and Auris, in glide in PWR keeps ICE turned on, not matter what cooling temp or cat temperature is.
    HOT or COLD always ICE ON in PWR for speed above 20 mph. Are you saying this is not the case on USA Prius? Interesting. If is confirmed, you should be interested in knowing how power is managed in PWR btw 20 and 42 mph in our cars.

    2) Of course above 42 mph ICE is always on for protecting MG1 from overspeeding, altough PIP demonstrate that this is a bit conservative.

    3)
    Sort of.
    PWR let the engine to stay on above 20mph (EU at the least), and you'll warm up faster, as i do measure, which is good. But if you're on top of a slope from the very beginning, like me, you'll not save the fuel of the engine off during the glide. So i ended up with a warmer engine but worse FE than the glide in Normal with ICE off.