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Earthships

Discussion in 'Environmental Discussion' started by 2007blueprius, Jan 3, 2014.

  1. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    Don't hope; know.


    Why make an over-sized solar collector, shading your house, when you can make an appropriately sized one, mount it on the house, and get the best of both worlds?

    Happy to debate that.

    To each his own I suppose, but if I could show you how to make it comfortable without changing your commitment to low environmental harm, would that be better? Today, it only got up to 18, and I am sitting here trying to convince myself to go start a fire. There has been no heat in the house since yesterday evening.
     
  2. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    I initially missed this post for some reason, I would rather keep conversations here so others can access them,
     
  3. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    I cant coment weather it's better or not I would not be the wiser, hust recently learned about the tripple panes did not know such were beeing made, a tripple pane may be a good insulator I will give you that but the point is in the original design the greenhouse also serves a purpose with summer cooling or so they say, and I could see it work
     
  4. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    I certainly will look into it, now we are going somewhere, like I said if windows prove to be an issue I'd rather first look into ways of improving them rather than simply cut them out
     
  5. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    OK, I lied. I'd like to join in this conversation ..

    First off, listen to Corwyn Blue. He shares your ideals, but has engineering expertise that is normally quite expensive to buy.

    In sunny NM, I decided that fenestration, combined with outside shading for the summer, was the way to go. I bought double pane clear glass fixed windows with a U rating of 0.31 that cost $2000 for seven, 24 square ft windows.
    I figured that my temperature delta in the winter would average about 20C, for a heat loss of about 150 Wh a day per square meter, while the heat gain would be about 2500 Wh a square meter on sunny days through my SE orientation.

    If I lived in a climate with less sun and a larger temp gradient I would spend more on insulation rather than glass.
     
  6. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    I can't. Not in Michigan. It is a desert cooling system, and doesn't fix the main problem in other climates, namely humidity. What it will do for you is, give you a nice hotter-than-outside, portion of your house, right next to a large wall of low-insulation glass.
     
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  7. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    it's becoming more and more aparent that the whole concept of a global model is not such a great Idea one design fitts all. my first clue was the roof pitch in a michigan winter I would like to take in all the sun I can get.
    I'm glad you guys got in on this because you bring up some real concerns, I have a good understanding of fizics and I can see how you make a valid point. At the same time I'd rather hear it now than after I built it even if it bursts my bubble.
    for example I can see how the angled windows may sag and be a bitch to seal, the third row of posts I penciled in are there just to support the weight of that crooked wall, I kind ouf like it honestly but I am trying to keep an open mind, and not get atteched to it.
    the whole concept of a buffer zone is almoast a must for me especially if not well insulated, making that outside wall vertical actually simplifies the build a lot, that whole third row of poles would not be needed, I'm going to have to pencil some of htese things in and see how it looks.
    at the same time if angled is going to be the final design and 12 feet tall I definatelly have to keep in mind reinforcement.

    I am not advocating one design over another by any means if I provided some sort of justification for some aspects is because is what I read about it, not necesarily my thoughts but had to bring an argument as to why build it this way and not the other, deffinatelly lots to consider.

    George
     
  8. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    WP_20140129_001[1].jpg I think you were right, most important is not to get attached to one idea or another, I was kindof growing fond of the angled glass I liked it honestly, I drew this last night based on some of the disscussion here and other forumangled glass, and drew iut vertical instead, that alone simplifies the build a lot the third row of posts were there in the old one just to prop thet wall of glass up so I eliminated a third of the foundation work, some of the concerns that were brought up about sagging and sealing are much eliminated, I also moved the 2 ft rammed earth on the outside of the framework and gained some square footage , as for the roof I left it at 12 inch thick aprox R48 on a bad day, floor is about R24 and so are the walls, I read a bit on some of the work the sweedish have done particularily insulated shalow foundations, and drew mine like, I need to do more reading into the pasivehous came across the name briefly need to know more.
    in the end I am growing quite fond of this new drawing, maybe I'll have to tweek it some maybe more insulation in the roof, the winter sun exposure diminished a bit part because the 4 ft wall on the south side is closer to the living space but I can live with that most of you thought it was too much before even now still, I can live with it considering all the headackes it eliminates, and honestly I am not sure if heat gain in the winter will be affected at all due to the vertical angle but in the sunmer solstice sun the glass is at a much shallower angle hopefully bouncing off more light than it alows in, ( I know don't hope, rough gutt feeling for now once I decide on something we'll see about the math ) thanks to all that pitched in
     
  9. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    I have this feeling that the notion of heat mass is misapplied in Eco home building. It is really only useful if, e.g., the inside temperature is hotter than desired without it. It is true that the mass attenuates the swings in interior temperature, but so long as the undamped swings are within a defined comfort zone, that is at best a minor benefit that costs a lot to implement.
    I suggest some interior ventilation instead, assuming that natural convection does not already do the job.

    Again using my home as an example: the sunny side of my home reaches the mid 60s F during sun hours, when no central heating is used and 24 hour average temps are in the 30s F outside. The last thing I want to do is take away some of that heat for the night! Not only am I not in the same area at night, but then I am sleeping under covers and am quite comfortable with a room temperature that dips into the low 50s.

    Central Air seems to mean a uniform temperature throughout the home for most (I know that zones are possible), but I embrace just the opposite. Having a choice of warm and cool areas in the home is a delight, and it is much more efficient.
     
  10. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    Passivhaus For Beginners | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com

    came across this, and at a glance they use twice the amount of insulation compared to my latest drawing, couple of the examples are in Ilinois and Minesota lose enough for a rough guide, I grew up with liquid filled radiators, never been a fan of forced air, some of the pasivhouse text confirms it too, thou solar gain is not one of their interest.

    you are looking at mass from a cooling perspective, not so mush of my concern, sure many people bitch about the summer beeing hot some run the airconditioning from aril to november, supposedly the moisture, I am loving every bit of it, the reason I am looking at building massive walls is to store some of that sunshine, one would not make any sense without the other
     
  11. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    I was thinking of the winter actually.

    My point is that heat mass is only useful if you have more heat than you want for certain times, so you time shift some of it to other times -- say, at night, or for a day without sunshine.

    Since my passive heated home in the winter never goes above 75F anywhere in the home, adding more heat mass would not be a benefit. Instead, I invest in insulation to keep what the sun provided.
     
  12. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    I see there is a point where the thermall mass can hold more heat than it will ever be provided, beyond that it's pointless, I still like lots of glass to the south, highteck tripple panes with coatings are out of the question I don't even want to know what they cost, the idea is to use repurposed or miscuts, as it is I am planning on 2 glass walls, one on the outside and one in between the south row of poles, if anything as far as insulation is concerned that will be the weak spot, my south wall if you will is made out of 2 double pane walls with about 5 feet of air in between, that is another way to look at it, what the real R value will be? not sure it was brought up earlier that the 5 feet of air/buffer zone vill have convevtion currents and such
     
  13. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    I'm not exactly sure what you mean, but I wasn't talking about heat mass excess. I meant that unless your space is *too* warm in the winter, more heat mass is not going to make you happier.

    And if you do think you will have too high a temperature in the winter (at least some of the time), you better have a good idea how to get rid of that stored heat in the summer or your house will turn into a sauna.

    Listen, I think you will find PassivHaus ideas much to your liking. The basic concepts are fenestration, insulation, and ventilation. The details of a specific home build benefit from someone like Corwyn.
     
  14. 2007blueprius

    2007blueprius Member

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    I have been reading into the passivhaus, the concept is not so much concerned with solar gain but rather insulation and air tightness. I am looking to do both honestly,
    The concept of a house too hot in the winter in Michigan without fuel, I am still having a hard time imagining, the whole idea is to colect as much in the day ( sun ) release it at night, without the mass it might be too hot during the day and not enough at night, I think we are talking about the same thing in some sense.
    the other thing I insist into rammed earth wall it supposed to help with the moisture
    I have been bussy drawing all day at this point my concern is that with this much mass above the insulation will implode, the roof structure is supported by the poles I could see the walls/floor sinking . I am thinking a compromise might be in order and do away with the insulation at least on the perimeter that back wall is about 10 feet of rammed earth on top of the insulation
     
  15. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    Yes, you do! It isn't as much as you think. You are currently thinking about two places with windows, at least one of which *needs* to be at least double pane. Installing twice as many windows, means you are already more than the price of triple pane windows.

    Probably about R-1.8 (R0.17 for outside air + R0.15 for first pane of glass + R0.68 for inside air + R0.15 for second pane + R0.68 for living space air). Good triple windows at R-10 lose 20% of the heat. Plus you get that 'buffer' space as actual living space. The buffer space is not a new concept with earthships, in New England we call them three- season porches. Personally, I call them high-visibility storage locations, as they *always* end up filled with stuff and *never* used.

    Running the numbers for my climate, windows at R-1.8 cost $0.17 per year per square foot (3900 BTUs). While Intus windows (best in my limited database) gain 40,400 BTUs (saving $1.92 per year per square foot). If you have 300 ft^2 of windows, that's $17,280 over the life of the mortgage.
     
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  16. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Please explain.

    When you say R-1.8 windows cost 17 cents/square-foot, do you mean that 3900 btu's of energy are lost per your local annual heating season ?
     
  17. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    Yes. Windows like you describe are heat losers, and cost 17 cents per ft^2 per year (South facing windows, electrical heat $0.158/ kWh, 7500 Heating Degree Days, lots of other assumptions as well).
     
  18. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Do you mean NET heat losers ?

    I may well be erring in calculations, but if
    U = 0.55;
    Delta T = 20C

    Then loss is about 10 watts per meter squared, or 264 Wh per day.

    Something wrong in my calc ?
     
  19. Corwyn

    Corwyn Energy Curmudgeon

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    Yes, NET heat losers. Heat gain from solar - Heat loss.
     
  20. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Wow. Is my heat loss calculation wrong ?