Successful Gen III PiP install of Cusco Strut Tower Brace (STB)

Read the post by NoMoreHow on the one from HorsePowerFreaks. The one for $180 in the pictures is correct.

I had a 65 degree day outside and did mine then.

The back nuts are the toughest ones to get to. You loosen them until the are free spinning and work them off with a long thin flat blade screwdriver.

I used a magnet, but a 10 inch long "hemostat" for about $12 delivered off of eBay, makes it simple to place the washers and nuts. I'd place the nut on the stud and carefully work it to start the threads with the long flat blade screwdriver.

Once the nuts are run down, you need a long 14mm offset wrench like this cheap one off of Amazon to tighten them.




It's also helpful for removing the nuts in the first place.

 

Mike, I did followed the manual, which requires to remove all the items you listed above to get it install & proper torque.

I wish I have a set of skills like your Mike, which could save me alot of time.

Thinking of it, I need a good set of mechanic tools.

btw: Here is English PDF file, if anyone want to check it out.

 

It's not that hard, NoMoreHow,

I just looked at the situation and though that the install procedure provided by Cusco was absurd.


It's all about having the right tools and techniques. Over the years, I have acquired a good feel on what the proper torque is for a particular fastener. Many novices tighten bolts too tight.

The particular tools that I noted are good to have anyway. They are not expensive and have a lot of other uses. The bolts provided by CUSCO needs an 8mm Allen wrench. How often does anyone use that? The 12mm x 14mm wrench, along with a 10mm wrench would take off 95% of all the hex bolts on a Prius. The oil drain plug uses the same 14mm wrench.

Experience is about trying things and making mistakes. I've made my share of them.

 

The only problem is that the TRD rear sway bar has not bee specified by Toyota for the "v." It is designed for the Gen III.

 

I guess either way works just fine...

I just like having the bolt heads on the outside. It makes for easier withdrawal, I guess.


Two pieces on each side are easier to handle than the five supplied by CUSCO.

And, you can use the ubiquitous 14mm wrenches commonly used for nuts and bolts throughout all Japanese and Korean branded cars.

I went and topped off the brake fluid in my "v," today.

The top of the reservoir doesn't screw off. It is "push on." You grab the lip and fold it over to take the cap off.

I tore a hole out of a Walmart plastic bag to go over the reservoir, peeled off the cap and sued a paper funnel to slowly fil the reservoir to the top line.

I made the paper funnel out of half a file folder and taped the flap. The funnel was clean, cheap and disposable.

That proves that you should get the CUSCO instead of the Tanabe, for sure.

Here's more photos of the Improved 10.9 J.I.S. flange bolt and nut set...

 

Just ordered mine from Horsepower Freaks. Looked for Shaun and asked about the pricing. Said the best he could do was $200 flat including shipping. Guess it's better than juicedhybrid.com

Item is backordered; just like every dam thing I want for the car. Good thing is it will be arriving from the Cusco warehouse at the end of the month.

 

Like everything else, the price keeps going up.

People laughed, when I got the 5% discount from JuicedHybrid and paid about $200 delivered. DiscoverCard had another 5% on-line purchase "cash back" for the last quarter of 2013. So, I ONLY paid about $190 delivered.

They had one coming on the shipment with CUSCO. I got it drop shipped to the East Coast in 2-1/2 weeks.


After fiddling with the cheap low grade 8mm hex key socket head screws, whose heads I deformed on tightening, and the non-J.I.S. large head 17mm on hex nuts and multiplicity of washers, I sourced out the special 10 grade flange nuts and 14mm hex 10.9 J.I.S. bolts. The NEW bolts and nuts are a pleasure to use. They use the same wrenches as the OEM bolts on the car.

 

So after almost 2 months of waiting, my Cusco front strut tie bar arrived from Horsepowerfreaks aka Vivid Racing. I have come to the realization that anything nice that you want for the Prius will take eons to arrive.

It came in a box without any sort of advertisement. Is it a Chinese knock-off? lol.


Alright, this is looking better. There is the word - Vacanza written all over the plastic. Isn't that the Prius Van?


I can't read Japanese but I am happy to see that language on anything I buy !


Hmm...where is the master cylinder brace thing?


Looks like there was a possible revision of this product as the date here is from sometime in April 2014


Not sure if these washers are like the ones everyone else has on Previous versions of the bar.

Does anyone know if I have to unload the front wheels before installing the bar? I am going to install it this Friday with my buddy, who is the master technician at a Toyota dealership, along with my Tanabe coilovers for a good suspension makeover.

 

Japanese on the front sticker just says:

951 540 ALHD
Front Use Oval Shaft Type
ZVW30 LHD (chassis, left hand drive)

Strut Bar​

I recall the Cusco parts catalog. This is the only model for LHD models for the ZVW30 Prii (which kinda makes the prohibition against using it outside Japan amusing--I believe they actually mean it's not warranted or supported if you use it outside Japan and it's just a bad translation. The "A" in "ALHD" refers to the shaft being aluminum as opposed to their carbon shaft models ("CS", I think) and stainless steel models ("SS"?), and it's an Oval-shaped cross section vs. some of the other cross-section types.

The other options are moot anyway since, last I checked, they only make an LHD variant of the aluminum oval STB. And they don't list any type of rear STB for the Prius, even though they make them for other makes and models.

 

Wow, very informative. I'll have to get a hold of you next time I want things translated...lol

Thanks

 

The washers are the same for all "ALHD" models. They go under the four mounting points.

No, you don't have to unload the car to install the brace. It installs with both the car wheels on the ground.

If you read the earlier posts in this thread, you will see my comment on how I was able to install mine without removing the cowl or wiper arms.

Here's a link to the installation instructions in English.

http://www.juicedhybrid.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/951%20540%20alhd_eng.pdf

 

I'm interested in doing this mod as well. Can you expand on the resulting "improved steering?"

 

My Toyota buddy helped me install the bar today. With air tools in his garage, the job was complete in 30 min. Since he works on Toyotas everyday, taking off the windshield cowl + motor etc was a piece of cake. The Tanabe coilovers which were scheduled to be put in by him today was delayed by me. I figure that I need to get my audio system complete before tackling the suspension.





I really thought all of you were bullshi__ing when you mentioned how different the car felt after the bar was installed. Now I am a believer - it's not a night and day difference but I definitely feel the chassis being nice and strong over bumps and cornering. It feels like the car is more solid. Steering preciseness has gotten better too.

For $200, not a bad mod! As for my coilovers, I will enjoy any last bit of comfort I can while I still have the OEM suspension. I may have them installed at the end of summer. It's hard to find any garages I can trust.

 

You are on the right path! Wait for a difference the coilovers will make

 

TOLDJA!

 

Yes. Sounds like the STB addresses the vagueness of the the stock steering set-up.