ICE not running -- Car stuck on forest road

I believe all those codes are bogus
POAOF -engine did not start
p3191 - engine did not start
1421 Stupid solar sensor fault
B1207 Certification ECU Communication Malfunction

Can you think back and tell me if you might have put the car in D before you got a ready light?

 

I definitely don't think P0A0F or P3191 are bogus here. That sounds exactly like the problem Kris reported. Sure it appears to have magically cured itself for now. But I believe that there is an underlying issue, and those two codes are definitely pointing the way.

 

By bogus I mean not recurrent or not hard faults. Yes, the engine did not start but, why? I am convinced its similar to what I've seen in my old Gen I when you put the car in D before the ICE starts. If you do this, the car will revert to Out of Gas mode and give you these faults. Of course in the Gen II, the ICE doesn't start right away so, I'm thinking the car was put in D before the ready light was given and the same symptoms occurred. I know you all think I'm crazy but, I observed this more than once.

 

LOL. OK who thinks this guy is crazy?

 

If there are no codes and everything seems normal, I would clear the entire system and wait for it to reappear. See if they come back. Then trouble shoot from there.

USNavy is not crazy, he likes the simple approach to things. Which many times is what is needed and don't over analyze the situation.

 

Clearing the codes and going for a drive near home but for a good 15 minutes sounds reasonable to me too, but at the end I would hook up the VCI and check inverter and engine temperatures.

 

that's the Engine Water Pump that looks like it could use a replacement. I'm not sure of its possible connection to the codes though.

 

Hi Kris-
Given the onslaught of meese attacks i would surely look in the engine air filter box for a huge mouse condo as you have reported finding contractors and ladders in there before.
I'm sure the cabin filter looks like a luxurious Pullman Car by now too lol.

 

I would replace the engine coolant pump for sure. There is zero chance this caused your issue or those codes.

 

1. Replace the engine coolant pump at your earliest convenience, but that was not the cause of the engine no-start issue

2. Make sure your fuel tank level remains above three bars at all times

3. Inspect the wiring to the fuel injectors and the spark igniters for damage. Inspect the wiring harness that comes out of the firewall (which leads to the engine and hybrid vehicle ECUs located behind the glove compartment) and follow its entire length along the engine, looking for faults.

Remove the lower glove compartment (as if you were going to replace the cabin air filter) and check the portion of the wiring harness which can be seen, connecting to the engine and hybrid vehicle ECUs.

4. Remove the engine air cleaner housing cover for access. Check the throttle body interior and throttle plate and if you see black gunk on those parts, clean using the minimum possible amount of throttle body cleaner. Do not contaminate the mass air flow sensor mounted to the side of the air cleaner housing.

The throttle body cleaner can instructions will encourage you to spray much of the can into the engine while the Toyota recommended policy is to spray some cleaner on a clean cloth and use that to scrub off the deposits. This implies you remove the entire air cleaner housing for access. The reason to use the minimum amount of cleaner is that the dirt-laden fluid can flow along the throttle shaft, enter the throttle shaft motor and cause problems.

5. Remove the mass air flow sensor and clean with MAF sensor spray. Do not use throttle body cleaner because that contains a lubricant which will contaminate the sensor.

6. Clear the DTC, take the car on a reasonably long drive, and see if the fault codes come back. You need to have this resolved before you embark on a long road trip.

 

I just wonder where is your belt?

 

A tiny portion of the serpentine belt can be seen in the upper right photo, as it wraps around the idler pulley. The belt does not run all the way around the engine coolant pump pulley. Rather only a portion of the pulley is contacted by the belt.

 

1. OK to have the dealer replace the engine coolant pump since that clearly needs to happen. It actually is not quite that easy if you are a novice at auto repair - other PC members have had difficulty especially with loosening the lock nut on the idler pulley and removing the pump pulley bolts - not to mention refilling the engine coolant system and getting all air out.
2. If you don't have any current DTC logged or warning lights then it is unlikely the dealer tech will do anything besides add one hour of labor time to your repair invoice and report "No trouble found. Customer advised to return if her engine no-start problem reappears."

 

I would hate to think what they will charge for the pump. And it looks to be right there!!

I don't know why you would need to change a o-ring if it isn't damaged or compressed in some way.

 

What O-ring ?
Addendum: Now I remember. Sorry