rough @ idle and acceleration after Throttle body cleaning.....!

Both mani's need to be checked. Maybe the intake is loose or cracked. Most of the time if the intake is loose or cracked the engine will speed up on its own a little but tell the mechanic this info as its important. Easy to test just spray some carb cleaner on the flange and see if it stumbles or races.

Still sounds like ignitor pack or boot is bad. Misfires are tough. But TS should tell you which cylinder is misfiring. If random cylinders than start looking at the mani's.

 

While you're waiting to install the new coils you could check the power supply to each coil to rule out the harness being damaged during this whole problem.
Disconnect the ignition coil connector
Turn the ignition switch ON.
Using a voltmeter, measure the voltage between terminals 1 and 4 of the connector.
It should be 9.0-14 volts.

 

I still have this nagging suspicion that your MAF may have gotten some kind of contaminant in it when your mechanic cleaned the throttle body.
If the other things you're doing don't resolve the issue, check out Hobbit's thread about 100k maintenance, the part about the MAF.

100K maint - 2

 

Good, was only one spark igniter defective?

The throttle body interior looks very clean.

 

Hope that completely solves your problem.
Looks like you did have water on the coil.
Toyota identifies this problem in a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB EG063-05) and
recommends replacing any damaged plugs and coils and updating the seal on the cowl.
You already did this.
The repair is covered under warranty for three years or 36,000 miles. You are past this.
Otherwise the fix costs $150 per plug and coil and another $150 to reseal the cowl.
Make sure the cowl is good to go so you don't have a repeat problem.

 

Good, did you replace just the one spark igniter, or all four?

 

what is this?

 

spark plug igniter

 

Cracks in the ignitor are quite common here. Look at the ignitor boot up to the sun while bending it. Even a tiny hairline crack will leak hi voltage and misfire you.

The spring on the throttle body looks bone dry and the butterfly is pretty rusted. Spray some lube on the that spring and rotate it before and after and see how easily it turns.

Open up the butterfly by turning the spring and shove a rag down its throat all the way into the bottom of the mani. Soak the rag with choke cleaner and with gloves on scrub that butterfly top and underside with the now wet rag. Disconnect that big hose at the top of the TB and with stem on choke cleaner flush out that hose spigot as thats pcv in and gets very gunky. Look at the hose end carefully and see how gunky it is/ may need hose & pcv replacement also. Especially if the car lives on dyno oil.

If either the spring gets so corroded or the edge of the butterfly becomes so rusted it begins to stick its new TB time to the tune of $1200-2000.

 

I think when I get to my plugs at maybe 110K which is 30K away and another 2 more years I will replace all ignitors at the same time.
Its somewhat of a pain to do the plugs and I'd hate to go back in because the sheer wiggling to pull the boot off can cause the tiny tears that will drive you bonkers with misfires. The ignitor boots live a hard life buried in the valve cover wells. Its pretty hot in there.

If you can't afford new ignitors recondition them with a conditioner like Black Magic Protectant. Clean them real good and check inside and out of the boot for wear or cracking by bending the rubber. If no cracks condition them thoroughly on the outside of the boot dry them off and put some dielectric grease in the boot hole.
And like the op's picture shows check the diameter of the hole of the boot. If the boot hole is distended it may not fit the plug snugly and hi voltage may leak out there to.

Intermittent misfires and stumbling & poor performance are the most common issues on modern cars with cops. You can buy after market cops but they are no where's near the quality of oem cops.

Before removing the spark plug after pulling boot off look down the well with a flashlight and see how much corrosion is down there. Blow out the hole good with compressed air before removing the plug. Make sure car engine is cold to the touch. I like to freeze the plug with freeze spray directed to the plug by a rolled up paper tube placed around the plug in the hole. With the plug frozen and shrunken it comes right out. I highly recommend this procedure on a car with extremely high mileage and on original plugs.