P3024 code after reconditioning battery pack

Yes, the challenge is to get the battery ECU to log the DTC again, and at that point run the diagnostic report and see what it looks like.

 

I was wondering if that was going to happen, seeing as your measured values looked so high. I am guessing that what you measured was the DC resistance and that what the Prius battery monitor system (as read by the tech stream) is measuring is the AC resistance.

In the simplest possible model for a battery there is just the the one voltage source and the one internal resistance. This simple model doesn't take account some electrochemical dynamics of the cell, and more complex battery models include various capacitors and resistor in series/parallel to help model these dynamics.

In essence, there isn't really one single number that truly represents the series resistance, so the result you obtain will always depend to some extent on how you measure it.

 

Yes. Given the data you have, why not replace all eight modules from blocks 8, 10, 13, and 14.

 

Your weak modules have a lower capacity than the others and note the variation in series resistance. Pair 9 is also suspect (low capacity).

JeffD

 

Omg, at this point your almost there. I have heard that batteryboy on Ebay is a good supplier. The two people I know of on here that deal with batteries are 3prongpaul and ericbecky. Any of those people would likely be a good source.

 

Unless you like working on the battery as a continuing hobby, that would be a good approach.

 

(i'm new)

i too have this code 3000-123 in addition to 3024. i'm not sure that 3024 is causing the 3000-123...

i had an issue and checked the voltages on all the module terminal points and found that one was around 6.8v while the rest were around 7.8v, so i decided to replace the cell. i too had the fan coming on and this was before i got the cable/tech software and so was kinda guessing...

anyway, after i put in the new module these codes are being generated (impossible to say if they're the same as pre-battery break up). i couldn't see any change to the resistance similar to the screen grabs above they were all steady at .019 so i'm wondering if I need to drive it (after clearing the code) with the tech s/w running to see the results similar to the above where the resistance is shown with the variations between cells?

i have screen dumps/exports of the data if anyone has any other ideas. would also be useful to know which is 'module 14' when you're looking at the pack physically?

 

DTC P3000-123 is logged by the hybrid vehicle ECU and means that the traction battery ECU has a problem.
DTC P3024 is logged by the traction battery ECU and means that battery block 14 has a problem.

Battery block 14 is not the same as 'module 14'. A block is a pair of modules. Block 14 should be to the far right, farthest away from the traction battery ECU. It is composed of the 27th and 28th battery modules. Using Mini VCI, look at the module pair voltage for block 14, compared to the other 13.

 

thanks for the quick reply!

For P3000-123, is there anyway to tell what the problem is? i did see a list in other posts of possibilities but they seem a little vague: (HV battery, HV fuse, HV battery cooling, power cable)

from the freeze frame data on the 3024 - 17.04v for #14, the rest are around 16.02-16.16 aside from #1 which is 15.91. though when viewing live this didn't seem to be quite that much higher.

i replaced the module that was 4th from the ECU, so i'm assuming it's not due to that original problem (making this block #3 according to your description).

 

P3000 is caused by P3024 so if you fix the latter then the former should go away.

The module which is fourth from the ECU would be part of battery block 2. The first two modules (1 and 2) comprise battery block 1. Hence the next two (3 and 4) comprise battery block 2.

Battery block 14 clearly has too much voltage compared to the others. The difference between module pair voltages should not exceed 0.3V.

 

cool, i was hoping one would solve the other... so, do you think i should try and discharge block #14 a little to bring the voltage down? i have a charger capable of discharge/charge cycles... or is this indicative of a bad module in that it's taking up too much charge and ultimately needs to be replaced as well?

 

Yes, you could try to discharge block 14 somewhat. Another possibility might be to measure individual module voltages. If both modules within block are high, move them around to pair them with the lowest voltage modules elsewhere in the pack.

 

so i moved all of 14 (took one from 12 and 13 to make 14), and also made a change to the 1/2 as 1 was low and 2 high.

now i'm getting these codes at the end of this thread:
07 Prius won't start after repairs | PriusChat

any idea's what i might have done?

EDIT: solved detail in other thread

 

Please can you also post the picture of the setup here?
I also would want to know how to especially read the current and resistance of modules I work on.

 

Hi Patrick. Do you have a picture of the kind of setup he described above on how to measure the current and resistance of those modules?

Have tried seeing how I could do that, but got no ideas.

Thanks for the replay

 

Use Mini VCI (bootleg Toyota Techstream) which will report battery module pair internal resistance.