Voltage stabilizer

For the lower, down-stream sensor, if you go to that A-zon website, and search for Denso 234-4623 Oxygen Sensor the O2 sensor is $53.00 - Napa & advanced were about $100 (the $53 one is plug-n-play no splicing wires or anything like that. there are cheaper ones that require cutting and splicing, but if not done correctly can lead to more errors), a Powerbuilt 648691 Oxygen Sensor Offset Puller is $9 and some PB blaster penetrating fluid for $7. The wire-harness connector is under the passenger carpet. You'll have to remove the plastic trim on the passenger side floor (it just pulls up), then lift up the carpet, the harness clip is near the center hump. I found it easiest to unclip the sensor harness first, push the clip through the floor, then jack the car up and remove the sensor. Install in reverse order.

The up-stream sensor is harder to get to, I'm still waiting to replace that one, I'm going to attempt it when I change out my sparkplugs; because it requires removal of the cowl panel and is back behind the engine. Another annoying thing is that the upstream sensor has a collar on it that requires a special puller tool, or a grinded down offset puller that's cut down to slip inside the collar.

This video isn't for a prius, I couldn't find any specific to the prius, but this will give you the general idea.

Here's a link for more information: Oxygen sensor general info | PriusChat

O2 and air/fuel ratio sensors | PriusChat

 

What's the world of cheap consumer electronics coming to, when even a simple 555 timer LED blinker won't last more than a few months?

The failure of the LED blinker has no bearing on the condition and function of that capacitor. They merely share a box and fused power connection.

Agreed. For this function, 4700uF is negligible. And separately, absent a datasheet for it, I very strongly suspect its ESR renders it useless.

 

I can assure you that the device shown in those pictures does NOTHING other than pure placebo effect.

Such a small capacitor ( 4,700 uF) isn't big enough to make your car stereo sound any better, let alone increasing the performance of the car.

 

What about a 1 or a 3 farad cap? can we wire it to run in parallel with the battery to provide the extra boost of power when the bass hits on my stock stereo so my lights don't dim?

 

When your bass hits on the stock stereo... your lights dim???

 

My stock halogen lights use to, now that I've converted to HID, haven't noticed it. but that was along time, many, many mods ago... I think I've fixed it.